- Motto: "I ain't got time to bleed!"
- Weapon: Gattling Gun
Sorry to hear about your Fort Max! I'd be interested to know more about the condition in which he was stored. Was the climate controlled? I've often wondered if heat was a catalyst for yellowing.
Fortunately for you yellowig is reversible. I've reversed yellowing and other discoloring in many G1 figures including Fort Max. The process involves hydrogen peroxide and UV light.
1) Disassemble the figure, separate the parts to be whitened, remove as much metal as possible. Occasionally you will encounted a pin that cannot be removed, if so it's not the end of the world, but if I recall you won't have this issue with Max. Be careful to keep everything organized for reassembly, taking pictures along the way can be helpful.
2) Acquire some hydrogen peroxide and clear sealable containers. Any strength will work from the 3% brown bottles you can get a Wal-Mart to the 30% you can get a pool supply store. In my experience the higher strength stuff works much faster, though it does require some extra precations. It will cause mild chemical burns to the skin.
3) Place the yellowed parts in the clear sealable containers and pour in the hydrogen peroxide until they are submerged. Be careful not to over crowd the parts, because they need to be exposed to UV light. Parts that are hidden behind others will not be exposed and thus not be whitened. In the case of Max some of his parts were so big, like his ramps and thighs, I had to lay them in Pyrex baking dishes and cover with plastic wrap.
4) Place your containers in direct sun light. I have a large mirror that I place my containers on so the UV get reflected up from the bottom as well. Let the parts set until they achieve the whiteness you desire. I find it helps to go out and occasionally stir the parts around just to ensure equal exposure. I've heard of others using UV lights, but the sun is the ultimage UV lamp and it's free.
5) Remove the parts and rinse them in fresh water, dry, and reassemble.
The more severe the yellowing the longer the process will take, and it also depends on what strength of peroxide you choose. I've heard of the 3% stuff taking days, while the higher strength stuff can work in minutes or hours. Stickers will often survive limited exposure, but if you're concerned the stickers can be removed using zippo lighter fluid and a sharp razor. Removed them, lay them on wax paper, and store them under a heavy flat object on in a phone book. You can apply 3M spray adhesive to reapply them. I would recommend trying this process with a junker before working on Max, but the yellowing can be reversed. Good luck.