Devastator wrote:I usually used Testors brand arylic paint. I used to order my paint online from the Testors website, but I found that towerhobbies.com carries a bigger selection of Testors paints at lower prices and they actually have pictures of most of the products.
To paint large areas I use a Testors airbrush. I use the kind that sprays the paint directly from the bottle with the use of a special cap rather than the kind where the paint is sucked into the tip of a nozzle and then forced out of a hard to clean tip. For areas that are too small to paint with my inaccurate airbrush, I use Testors paint brushes. After the bristles get damaged I pick up a new set.
venort wrote:Ahoy there, UK user new to repaints here looking for some advice.
In short: is there an equivalent to Krylon fusion available in england?
So, a little more info. There are no asda stores in travelling distance, so I picked up that asda/wal-mart exclusive bumblebee and strafe pack from ebay. Payment went through, error code, tried again... aaand of course got two confirmation emails. Rather than navigating the ebay/paypal order cancellation/refund minefield, I figured I'd repaint the duplicates (I've got strafe's new deco sorta figured out, haven't decided on Bee's new look yet).
I've been looking through a few tutorials, and krylon fusion is recommended for hasbro plastic. Trouble is, I can't seem to get hold of that over here. Anyone know of an alternative?
Thanks!
AutobotJazz wrote:OK guys, here's a good place for you guys to throw out brands of paint you like, various tutorials, resource sites, or other tips and tricks you've picked up along the way. We've got a good mix of veterans and interested beginners. Let's share and pool together our strength and resources.
EchoKing wrote:AutobotJazz wrote:OK guys, here's a good place for you guys to throw out brands of paint you like, various tutorials, resource sites, or other tips and tricks you've picked up along the way. We've got a good mix of veterans and interested beginners. Let's share and pool together our strength and resources.
I'm new, how do you spray paint toys? Primer? Sealer?
Also does anyone know where to buy some g1 bumblebee like pistols that are 5mm for most generation figures? (Cartoon pistol)
Black Hat wrote:EchoKing wrote:AutobotJazz wrote:OK guys, here's a good place for you guys to throw out brands of paint you like, various tutorials, resource sites, or other tips and tricks you've picked up along the way. We've got a good mix of veterans and interested beginners. Let's share and pool together our strength and resources.
I'm new, how do you spray paint toys? Primer? Sealer?
Also does anyone know where to buy some g1 bumblebee like pistols that are 5mm for most generation figures? (Cartoon pistol)
Oh boy, where to begin?
First you'll want to disassemble your toy, which is a whole other topic. Then be sure to give the parts a good clean (being careful with anything that shouldn't get wet).
Once you have it disassembled and cleaned you'll want to prime it. You can do this either with a spray can or through an airbrush (more on that later). I recommend grey as it's a very neutral colour that most other colours look good over. Mr. Surfacer and Tamiya Primer are both great, if pricey.
Once the primer has dried and cured (which can take anything from a few hours to a few days) you'll want to check for inconsistencies (orange-peeling, graininess etc) and sand them down with progressively finer sandpaper grades.
Now you actually paint your figure. For most things you'll want to airbrush them, as it gives a very smooth and consistent finish. Buying the right airbrush is a whole other topic, but TLDR: Start off with a cheap one for practice (you WILL ruin your first airbrush) before using a decent one like an Iwata once you know how to use it.
Anyway, first you pick your paint. You can use acrylics, enamels or lacquers. Acrylics are usually water-based which means you can thin them with water, and are very easy to use. However the effects aren't usually as good for some things and they aren't very durable. Enamels I've not used much so I can't really comment. Lacquers need to be thinned with very specific thinners and are quite toxic (use in a ventilated space) in addition to being tricky to work with. However they are ridiculously durable and also look beautiful. Don't use them over bare plastic though or it will melt.
Remember, multiple thin coats are always better than one thick coat. Also, THIN YOUR PAINTS. (See above.)
If you want to have a hard barrier between two different colours on the same part you'll need to mask it. This is actually quite simple. First, spray the colour that will make up the majority of the part. Then, once it's dry and cured, use model masking tape (I recommend Tamiya tape) to cover the already painted bits you want to remain the first colour. Then spray the second colour. Once that's dry and cured, remove the masking tape.
Once you've painted everything you'll want to seal/"topcoat" it to protect the paint. You can either use your airbrush to apply bottled/potted varnish (although if you want a shiny finish, Pledge floor polish works well) or alternatively you can get some topcoat varnishes in spraycans.
Once everything is fully dry and cured, put your figure back together (taking great care not to damage the paint). Hooray! It's done!
TIPS:
Remember that parts that come in contact (such as on joints or tabs) will rub paint, so it's best to use more durable paints for these parts. Also be careful of making them too thick with the paint.
If you're just going to keep a figure as a display piece, you can afford to town on it more than if it's going to be handled/transformed. Some paints are very durable, others are quite fragile.
Pratice, practice, PRACTICE. Use plastic spoons to try out airbrushing on. Then try using a knock-off as a "test piece". You don't want to ruin your expensive figure after all.
Always be on the lookout for more information. Books on airbrushing and modelling in general are invaluable. It might be worth joining a modelling forum online for information- Gundam model communities are ideal as Gundam models are quite similar to Transformers in a lot of ways (being brightly coloured robots and all- some even transform!) and a lot of Gundam builders really know their stuff on airbrushing.
Remember that your first custom will inevitably be a mess. So A: don't worry too much when it goes badly wrong, and B: don't use an expensive toy you really like as a base. Get a cheap figure off eBay or your local bargain store.
There's a lot more to it than that, obviously, so be on the lookout for information in other communities.
Black Hat wrote:As in, a spray-can? I'd always recommend using an airbrush as it gives you more control, but spray-can varnish (provided it's good stuff) should work just fine.
I should disclose BTW, most of my knowledge is what I've gleaned from other people. I'm not the best airbrusher there ever was- I have the knowledge, I just struggle to apply it. There are far more experienced people out there than me and I recommend you seek them out. Still, I'm glad to have been of help!
Stormtalon wrote:Has anyone had any luck redecoing Combiner Wars figures?
leakin' lubricant wrote:Hi all, looking to make a Centurion custom from the UK Marvel comics using Universe Ultra Class Onslaught, the only problem is the head doesnt work, has anyone any sugegstion for a head replacement, I'd be happy with either version.
Lunatic Prime wrote:ZeldaTheSwordsman wrote:Lunatic Prime wrote:
"score"? I'm not a native in English, sorry. I guess you mean carving in grooves. Yea, that's what I'm a bit affraid of. Do you know a good technique?
I've already been looking a bit and found HIM a couple of minutes ago:
I'd remove his halo and paint the head - that's it.
But he might be a bit small for the body I intend to use...
Size comparison between Deluxe and Legends Warpath:
But as you mention Optimus I have a figure I intended to keep for custom parts anyway
AND it'd save me 10 euros.
Use a steel ruler (or failing that, some other sufficiently solid straight piece of metal) as a guide. Use the tip of the knife, and go lightly, deepening the grooves through repeated passes.
Thanks for the advice. I was already thinking of using a blade instead of my small drilling machine with a grinding head but I guess with small heads like those the grooves made by a knife will be wide enough.
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