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Ok been searching for a way to remove the head from energon barricade, or any incarnation of the mold. but cant find anyting anywhere.

So can anyone help me out with this???? really want to get that head off for a custom. replay here or PM either way is fine thanks.

im interested in knowing how to make new heads or other parts for figure -ive been wanting to try a few things

making an iron fist -would need a head
some of the shattered glass characters -repaints and i would need different heads for some

also an idea i have for turning bumble bee second printing form primes into a shattered glass version the generic troops form primes -his arm cannons and the fact they attach in car mode gave me the idea

chaosmage42 wrote:im interested in knowing how to make new heads or other parts for figure -ive been wanting to try a few things

making an iron fist -would need a head
some of the shattered glass characters -repaints and i would need different heads for some

also an idea i have for turning bumble bee second printing form primes into a shattered glass version the generic troops form primes -his arm cannons and the fact they attach in car mode gave me the idea

Most of the time you can swap heads out from other TFs just by adding a ball joint to the neck of shaving a little off here and there to get them to fit. You can use an xacto knife to trim pieces off and reshape faces some, then epoxy on other bits of plastic to make faceplates or other alterations. Check the buy, sell, trade forums here on Seibertron.com for people selling parts you may need, like a particular head. Also look into shapeways.com where people have some great things available, like this Ironfist head http://www.shapeways.com/model/660157/w ... Box-search
Experiment and see what works best for you. Good luck

ill try that thanks -see if i can check a few yard sales and the discount area of walmart after xmas might be something there.

Also what scale is that ironfist head for -i don't want to use that particular body its mean for -im not a big fan of the bayformers but what size is it i can't tell

I would like to take my Classics 2.0 Ironhide and turn him into Soundwave using WFC deluxe Soundwave's head. I have a clear idea of what I'm doing (head-swap and repaint), bit I wanted to know if anyone has attempted anything similar, and had any tips on what did or didn't work for them.

Hey guys. I'm planning on starting my first customization here soon...TFP Beast Hunters Starscream into Beast Wars Terrosaur! I've read all of the posts in this thread and have a great point to start from. However, I do have once question regarding shiny metallic paints in particular. Do they pose any specific issues? For example, must a primer be used? Is enamel metallic vs. acrylic metallic paint better? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Rhinox23 wrote:Hey guys. I'm planning on starting my first customization here soon...TFP Beast Hunters Starscream into Beast Wars Terrosaur! I've read all of the posts in this thread and have a great point to start from. However, I do have once question regarding shiny metallic paints in particular. Do they pose any specific issues? For example, must a primer be used? Is enamel metallic vs. acrylic metallic paint better? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

The thing about metallic paints is that they tend to come off more easily than solid colors (if I'm not mistaken) due to the metal particles in the paint. Primer is recommended to give the paint some "tooth" to grab onto the surface.

As far as enamel vs acrylics, enamels are tougher than acrylics and "bite" into the plastic more, which in turn presents the issue of melting plastic. That said, a coat of primer should protect the plastic surface. I've never personally used enamels, but it supposedly takes longer to dry than acrylics.

Acrylic is the "gentlest" of paint mediums, as it is the least corrosive against plastic. But that also means that it is the most easily scratched off. Again, a coat of primer will help with adhesion. NOTE: Tamiya acrylics are formulated for use with an airbrush. Applying these paints with paint brushes will generally give you a an uneven coat of paint, especially on large areas. If you must use a paint brush with Tamiya paints, limit it to detailing work or small areas.

BTW, most if not all spray paint is lacquer based, which is the most corrosive of the three paint types. Make sure to apply the paint in light coats instead of one heavy coat.

Clear coating a metallic surface is also recommended to protect it from constant handling. If you can get your hands on Future Floor Polish, it's probably the best candidate to protect your painted surface, as it leaves a tough, glossy surface. And since it's acrylic-based, it's also safe enough to use over all three paint types.

NOTE: Certain metallic paints cannot be coated with clear spray, such as Tamiya's TS-83 metallic silver. Doing so will turn that shiny silver surface into a dull gray.

TL;DR, whatever you choose to use, applying primer is always a good idea.

Tamiya acrylics are meant to be used with an airbrush.

Future Floor Polish makes the best glossy clear coat, and can even be applied with a paint brush.

Hope this helps.

SKYWARPED_128 wrote:The thing about metallic paints is that they tend to come off more easily than solid colors (if I'm not mistaken) due to the metal particles in the paint. Primer is recommended to give the paint some "tooth" to grab onto the surface.

As far as enamel vs acrylics, enamels are tougher than acrylics and "bite" into the plastic more, which in turn presents the issue of melting plastic. That said, a coat of primer should protect the plastic surface. I've never personally used enamels, but it supposedly takes longer to dry than acrylics.

Acrylic is the "gentlest" of paint mediums, as it is the least corrosive against plastic. But that also means that it is the most easily scratched off. Again, a coat of primer will help with adhesion. NOTE: Tamiya acrylics are formulated for use with an airbrush. Applying these paints with paint brushes will generally give you a an uneven coat of paint, especially on large areas. If you must use a paint brush with Tamiya paints, limit it to detailing work or small areas.

BTW, most if not all spray paint is lacquer based, which is the most corrosive of the three paint types. Make sure to apply the paint in light coats instead of one heavy coat.

Clear coating a metallic surface is also recommended to protect it from constant handling. If you can get your hands on Future Floor Polish, it's probably the best candidate to protect your painted surface, as it leaves a tough, glossy surface. And since it's acrylic-based, it's also safe enough to use over all three paint types.

NOTE: Certain metallic paints cannot be coated with clear spray, such as Tamiya's TS-83 metallic silver. Doing so will turn that shiny silver surface into a dull gray.

TL;DR, whatever you choose to use, applying primer is always a good idea.

Tamiya acrylics are meant to be used with an airbrush.

Future Floor Polish makes the best glossy clear coat, and can even be applied with a paint brush.

Hope this helps.

Thanks for all of your advice! I will definitely plan out what paints I intend to buy according to your tips. I really appreciate the help.

Rhinox23 wrote:

SKYWARPED_128 wrote:The thing about metallic paints is that they tend to come off more easily than solid colors (if I'm not mistaken) due to the metal particles in the paint. Primer is recommended to give the paint some "tooth" to grab onto the surface.

As far as enamel vs acrylics, enamels are tougher than acrylics and "bite" into the plastic more, which in turn presents the issue of melting plastic. That said, a coat of primer should protect the plastic surface. I've never personally used enamels, but it supposedly takes longer to dry than acrylics.

Acrylic is the "gentlest" of paint mediums, as it is the least corrosive against plastic. But that also means that it is the most easily scratched off. Again, a coat of primer will help with adhesion. NOTE: Tamiya acrylics are formulated for use with an airbrush. Applying these paints with paint brushes will generally give you a an uneven coat of paint, especially on large areas. If you must use a paint brush with Tamiya paints, limit it to detailing work or small areas.

BTW, most if not all spray paint is lacquer based, which is the most corrosive of the three paint types. Make sure to apply the paint in light coats instead of one heavy coat.

Clear coating a metallic surface is also recommended to protect it from constant handling. If you can get your hands on Future Floor Polish, it's probably the best candidate to protect your painted surface, as it leaves a tough, glossy surface. And since it's acrylic-based, it's also safe enough to use over all three paint types.

NOTE: Certain metallic paints cannot be coated with clear spray, such as Tamiya's TS-83 metallic silver. Doing so will turn that shiny silver surface into a dull gray.

TL;DR, whatever you choose to use, applying primer is always a good idea.

Tamiya acrylics are meant to be used with an airbrush.

Future Floor Polish makes the best glossy clear coat, and can even be applied with a paint brush.

Hope this helps.

Thanks for all of your advice! I will definitely plan out what paints I intend to buy according to your tips. I really appreciate the help.

Glad I could help!

Has anyone found a particular type of paint to use on the soft rubber that some transformers have? I tried testors acrylics so far and it does indeed dry awesome, but it flakes off. Any help or tips would be welcome