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Just a general question here. I have an Acidstorm who's arm broke off. The hinge joint on the shoulder broke in a way that the peg on front panel with the yellow stripe on it snapped off of it's base. I put some crazy glue on it to give it a fix and let it dry for a couple of days. Just tried to reassemble it now but I get scared that it'll break again when I try to move the shoulder.

My question is: does anyone know of a good bonding agent I could use that wouldn't be too prone to breaking again?

Fires_Of_Inferno wrote:Just a general question here. I have an Acidstorm who's arm broke off. The hinge joint on the shoulder broke in a way that the peg on front panel with the yellow stripe on it snapped off of it's base. I put some crazy glue on it to give it a fix and let it dry for a couple of days. Just tried to reassemble it now but I get scared that it'll break again when I try to move the shoulder.

My question is: does anyone know of a good bonding agent I could use that wouldn't be too prone to breaking again?

While I can't make any guarantees it'll work, you might want to try Tamiya's Liquid Cement and Semi-liquid Cement, or Mr. Hobby's Cement. These basically work by melting the plastic on the two parts you want to stick together and bonding them together.

Should work better than the usual CA-type glue.

Hope this helps.

One day, I stuck a cyberkey in my Cybertron Shortround, and now I can't get the dang thing out! I've taken him to pieces as much as I can, but I haven't been able to figure out how to do it.

warzon3 wrote:This is probably been discussed before, but my the white paint on Classics Prowl doors is becoming discolored is there away to clean that with out messing up the pain job? It doesn't seem soap and water really does the job.

Also looks like the Autobot symbol on his chest is is fading away over time and now looks orange. Were there some paint flaws when this guys was produced?

This guy had serious issues with the paint apps on his doors and sometimes his roof. I tried soapy water myself, and ended up with wet paint on my hands. So to fix the problem, I scraped as much of the paint as I could off of his roof and doors, and replaced it with Testors brand acrylic gloss white and black. Now that it's dry, it hasn't given me any of the trouble it used to.

I have an MP-04 Optimus Prime with a broken trailer hitch piece. I also have a regular Hasbro Masterpiece Prime with an intact trailer hitch piece, but the rest of the toy is in rough shape (missing head and several pistons, beat-up paint).

I was thinking of trying to replace the broken hitch on MP-04 with the one from the Hasbro edition, but could not figure out how to get the pin holding it in out--needlenose pliers and such have not worked, and I don't want to risk breaking it by using brute force. I've attached pics of the pin on the Hasbro version (a little fuzzy, sorry).

Anyone have any ideas on how to remove it (and of course, install into the other toy) without damaging the leg where it's seated, or trailer hitch?

Sorry if this has already came up or if this isn't the right fourm for this question. Im starting to get into paint apps and was wondering what the right method was to removing paint if I mess up ?

Hey anyone have any idea how to work with a broken perfect effect figure? The peg of one of the wing guns(right) of my shadow warrior (red one) snapped off in the back and won't come loose now. Curious if any suggestions to get it out and maybe re attach.

If not willing to sell cheap, otherwise h has all parts in perfect shape...except for this one problem

Have just received Dr Wu Partners through the post and on opening I noticed Sparkplugs leg is broken



Is there any way to fixt his and keeping his articulation? I have tried popping out the snapped nub where the leg connects but it is in too tight (probably the root of the problem) any help would be appreciated.

amtm wrote:I have an MP-04 Optimus Prime with a broken trailer hitch piece. I also have a regular Hasbro Masterpiece Prime with an intact trailer hitch piece, but the rest of the toy is in rough shape (missing head and several pistons, beat-up paint).

I was thinking of trying to replace the broken hitch on MP-04 with the one from the Hasbro edition, but could not figure out how to get the pin holding it in out--needlenose pliers and such have not worked, and I don't want to risk breaking it by using brute force. I've attached pics of the pin on the Hasbro version (a little fuzzy, sorry).

Anyone have any ideas on how to remove it (and of course, install into the other toy) without damaging the leg where it's seated, or trailer hitch?

TF-MP-OP-TrailerHitchPin-Front.jpg

TF-MP-OP-TrailerHitchPin-Back.jpg

Get a VERY small nail, nip off the point to make it flat and use that to push out the pin.

The ends of the pins are typically different. One has a pattern cut in to help it grip in the plastic, the other is typically smooth. You want the end with the patter to pop out first, if not you will be trying to push that part all the way through the joint which is difficult to do.

Once you get that one end out you can usually grab the pin with the pliers.

This trick works for any pin joint where you can reach both sides of the pin.

leakin' lubricant wrote:Have just received Dr Wu Partners through the post and on opening I noticed Sparkplugs leg is broken



Is there any way to fixt his and keeping his articulation? I have tried popping out the snapped nub where the leg connects but it is in too tight (probably the root of the problem) any help would be appreciated.

First, see if you can send him back and get the retailer to replace him ... that is your best bet. but if you can't,, one trick I've used to make replacement joints for figs is this:

Get a piece of wire about the diameter of the peg, maybe less.
You'll kind of have to judge what gauge to use.
I don't have the Dr Wu fig in question so I don't know how little he is.

But drill out a hole in the body, as well as the replace the broken peg. Use a drill bit the same size or just a TINY bit smaller than your wire.

It is a small fig, so be careful. You can probably drill it out with just the bit, without using an actual drill.

Cut a piece of wire to replace the old peg.

Viola! New pin joint. It'll hold in place with friction.

I've often used the wire that ties the figures in the packages.
Not the new eco friendly junk, the older plastic wrapped wire.
If you need to you can glue in one end, and have at least one side solidly mounted.
So if you have old packaging laying around, you probably have wire.

I've used this trick to replace many wrist pegs as well as other simple joints on TFs, Joe scale figures and Marvel Legends.

Say I had a hole in a figure and I wanted to fill that hole. What should I use?

rpetras wrote:

leakin' lubricant wrote:Have just received Dr Wu Partners through the post and on opening I noticed Sparkplugs leg is broken



Is there any way to fixt his and keeping his articulation? I have tried popping out the snapped nub where the leg connects but it is in too tight (probably the root of the problem) any help would be appreciated.

First, see if you can send him back and get the retailer to replace him ... that is your best bet. but if you can't,, one trick I've used to make replacement joints for figs is this:

Get a piece of wire about the diameter of the peg, maybe less.
You'll kind of have to judge what gauge to use.
I don't have the Dr Wu fig in question so I don't know how little he is.

But drill out a hole in the body, as well as the replace the broken peg. Use a drill bit the same size or just a TINY bit smaller than your wire.

It is a small fig, so be careful. You can probably drill it out with just the bit, without using an actual drill.

Cut a piece of wire to replace the old peg.

Viola! New pin joint. It'll hold in place with friction.

I've often used the wire that ties the figures in the packages.
Not the new eco friendly junk, the older plastic wrapped wire.
If you need to you can glue in one end, and have at least one side solidly mounted.
So if you have old packaging laying around, you probably have wire.

I've used this trick to replace many wrist pegs as well as other simple joints on TFs, Joe scale figures and Marvel Legends.

Thanks for the advice, much appreciated, I managed to get the nub out and repair it with super glue, the leg snapped back in place after a bit of careful cutting with a craft knife. If the joint breaks again I will try your method.

Not sure if this is where I should post this but I just picked up a Cybertron Soundwave figure (from the CGI cartoon not the game) and I noticed his chest panel is made of translucent purple plastic with painted gold parts and was wondering whats the best way to remove some of the gold paint without scratching it off, I wanted to do a little bit of work on this but this is my first attempt at customization of any kind

Hey everybody,
I recently acquired and extra Alternators Skids. I know the guy's been modded to here and back but it's my only duplicate so I want to re-paint him and maybe switch his head.

What should I use to take off the existing paint apps?
Where can I get a good sized head? Voyager class maybe?

Thanks

Tom_Servo wrote:<img src="http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l141/misterroundheels/MDrill.jpg" border="0" alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket"></a>
I got this drill for Christmas, and I've used it on almost every project that I've done since. It's magic.

I was reading through the old posts and saw this. Thanks for sharing. I prefer manual tools to power tools and I was thinking about getting one of these but wasn't sure about them. After hearing your praise I'm defiantly gonna pick one up.

Thanks again.

One of the peg holes on FOC Onslaught's gun is on the verge of breaking. I'm currently keeping him in robot mode to avoid that.

Is there any way I can fix the peg hole?

Hi all, I'm looking for some tips on fixing the paint job on my classics Prowl, for some reason all of a sudden the paint has become tacky (it was fine up until now). I was going to use Plastikote spray paints to replace the dodgy Hasbro stuff, has anyone any tips on the best way to mask off the doors with minimal bleeding, also does anyone know if it is advisable to clear cote over reprolabels sticker to preserve them.

Hi,
I just gotten G1 Scavenger and Scapper. They are dirty and the joints are a little tight. I don't want to damage them or peal the sticker off.
What should I do to clean them?
Thanks!

leakin' lubricant wrote:Hi all, I'm looking for some tips on fixing the paint job on my classics Prowl, for some reason all of a sudden the paint has become tacky (it was fine up until now). I was going to use Plastikote spray paints to replace the dodgy Hasbro stuff, has anyone any tips on the best way to mask off the doors with minimal bleeding, also does anyone know if it is advisable to clear cote over reprolabels sticker to preserve them.

Use Tamiya's masking tape. It might be expensive, but the masked edges show no bleed-through at all.

Do you have an airbrush? Airbrushes put on a much finer mist of paint, minimizing bleed-through. Also, try spraying from the side of the masked part--meaning, spray with the masked side facing toward you. The logic behind this is that if you spray with the unmasked side facing you, the masked edge of the tape acts like a dam, pooling paint on the edge, creating the risk of bleeding and an unnaturally thick border.

Also, you should use a blade to cut along the edges of the masking tape. Apparently, lint and dust might get stuck onto the sides of the tape, and create an uneven border on the painted surface.

SKYWARPED_128 wrote:

leakin' lubricant wrote:Hi all, I'm looking for some tips on fixing the paint job on my classics Prowl, for some reason all of a sudden the paint has become tacky (it was fine up until now). I was going to use Plastikote spray paints to replace the dodgy Hasbro stuff, has anyone any tips on the best way to mask off the doors with minimal bleeding, also does anyone know if it is advisable to clear cote over reprolabels sticker to preserve them.

Use Tamiya's masking tape. It might be expensive, but the masked edges show no bleed-through at all.

Do you have an airbrush? Airbrushes put on a much finer mist of paint, minimizing bleed-through. Also, try spraying from the side of the masked part--meaning, spray with the masked side facing toward you. The logic behind this is that if you spray with the unmasked side facing you, the masked edge of the tape acts like a dam, pooling paint on the edge, creating the risk of bleeding and an unnaturally thick border.

Also, you should use a blade to cut along the edges of the masking tape. Apparently, lint and dust might get stuck onto the sides of the tape, and create an uneven border on the painted surface.

Thanks very much, kind of a novice at this so your advice is very welcome. I dont have an airbrush unfortunately too expensive for how little I would use it. Would you advise using clear coat over the top of reprolabels or would that screw them up.

leakin' lubricant wrote:

SKYWARPED_128 wrote:

leakin' lubricant wrote:Hi all, I'm looking for some tips on fixing the paint job on my classics Prowl, for some reason all of a sudden the paint has become tacky (it was fine up until now). I was going to use Plastikote spray paints to replace the dodgy Hasbro stuff, has anyone any tips on the best way to mask off the doors with minimal bleeding, also does anyone know if it is advisable to clear cote over reprolabels sticker to preserve them.

Use Tamiya's masking tape. It might be expensive, but the masked edges show no bleed-through at all.

Do you have an airbrush? Airbrushes put on a much finer mist of paint, minimizing bleed-through. Also, try spraying from the side of the masked part--meaning, spray with the masked side facing toward you. The logic behind this is that if you spray with the unmasked side facing you, the masked edge of the tape acts like a dam, pooling paint on the edge, creating the risk of bleeding and an unnaturally thick border.

Also, you should use a blade to cut along the edges of the masking tape. Apparently, lint and dust might get stuck onto the sides of the tape, and create an uneven border on the painted surface.

Thanks very much, kind of a novice at this so your advice is very welcome. I dont have an airbrush unfortunately too expensive for how little I would use it. Would you advise using clear coat over the top of reprolabels or would that screw them up.

Glad to help.

I've clear coated Gundam stickers before when building my MG Gundam Exia, and it looks fine even a year later, so I suppose it should be okay with Reprolabels.

I haven't used Reprolabels before TBH, so I can't say for certain. It SHOULD be okay, though, as there hasn't been any reported cases of stickers being damaged by clear coats.

Just be very sure you have your sticker(s) where you want it before applying a clear coat, because it can be very difficult to remove dried clear coat , if not downright impossible (unless you're using Future).

SKYWARPED_128 wrote:
Glad to help.

I've clear coated Gundam stickers before when building my MG Gundam Exia, and it looks fine even a year later, so I suppose it should be okay with Reprolabels.

I haven't used Reprolabels before TBH, so I can't say for certain. It SHOULD be okay, though, as there hasn't been any reported cases of stickers being damaged by clear coats.

Just be very sure you have your sticker(s) where you want it before applying a clear coat, because it can be very difficult to remove dried clear coat , if not downright impossible (unless you're using Future).

Thanks again, good advice, I should be getting the paints together later today so I'll let you know how it goes.

Hey! I recently ordered some Pledge Future after seeing so many people recommend it for tightening up joints, but when it arrived, it was Multi-Surface Finish.

http://www.pledge.com/en-US/Products/Pa ... inish.aspx

Every online link I go to redirects to this product, and even though I'm positive I ordered Pledge Future, with the product image even having the Future logo on it, this is what I got instead. Is this the same stuff with a different name, or am I missing something?

Thanks in advance! Sorry if this is on the wrong place, the maintenance thread seemed like the best place for it.

EDIT: Actually can a mod please delete this post, I think I'll post this in the customization section.

Does anyone know how to remove this pin in Generations FOC Grimlock's shoulders?

I've tried heating it up with a hair dryer, I've tried using a hammer and a nail to knock out the pin (the gnarled end is on the top I think, which makes knocking it out tougher).

Anyone have an advice on this one?