Seibertron.com Energon Pub Forums

SKYWARPED_128 wrote:

leakin' lubricant wrote:Hi all, I'm looking for some tips on fixing the paint job on my classics Prowl, for some reason all of a sudden the paint has become tacky (it was fine up until now). I was going to use Plastikote spray paints to replace the dodgy Hasbro stuff, has anyone any tips on the best way to mask off the doors with minimal bleeding, also does anyone know if it is advisable to clear cote over reprolabels sticker to preserve them.

Use Tamiya's masking tape. It might be expensive, but the masked edges show no bleed-through at all.

Do you have an airbrush? Airbrushes put on a much finer mist of paint, minimizing bleed-through. Also, try spraying from the side of the masked part--meaning, spray with the masked side facing toward you. The logic behind this is that if you spray with the unmasked side facing you, the masked edge of the tape acts like a dam, pooling paint on the edge, creating the risk of bleeding and an unnaturally thick border.

Also, you should use a blade to cut along the edges of the masking tape. Apparently, lint and dust might get stuck onto the sides of the tape, and create an uneven border on the painted surface.

leakin' lubricant wrote:

SKYWARPED_128 wrote:

leakin' lubricant wrote:Hi all, I'm looking for some tips on fixing the paint job on my classics Prowl, for some reason all of a sudden the paint has become tacky (it was fine up until now). I was going to use Plastikote spray paints to replace the dodgy Hasbro stuff, has anyone any tips on the best way to mask off the doors with minimal bleeding, also does anyone know if it is advisable to clear cote over reprolabels sticker to preserve them.

Use Tamiya's masking tape. It might be expensive, but the masked edges show no bleed-through at all.

Do you have an airbrush? Airbrushes put on a much finer mist of paint, minimizing bleed-through. Also, try spraying from the side of the masked part--meaning, spray with the masked side facing toward you. The logic behind this is that if you spray with the unmasked side facing you, the masked edge of the tape acts like a dam, pooling paint on the edge, creating the risk of bleeding and an unnaturally thick border.

Also, you should use a blade to cut along the edges of the masking tape. Apparently, lint and dust might get stuck onto the sides of the tape, and create an uneven border on the painted surface.

Thanks very much, kind of a novice at this so your advice is very welcome. I dont have an airbrush unfortunately too expensive for how little I would use it. Would you advise using clear coat over the top of reprolabels or would that screw them up.

SKYWARPED_128 wrote:
Glad to help.

I've clear coated Gundam stickers before when building my MG Gundam Exia, and it looks fine even a year later, so I suppose it should be okay with Reprolabels.

I haven't used Reprolabels before TBH, so I can't say for certain. It SHOULD be okay, though, as there hasn't been any reported cases of stickers being damaged by clear coats.

Just be very sure you have your sticker(s) where you want it before applying a clear coat, because it can be very difficult to remove dried clear coat , if not downright impossible (unless you're using Future).