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Re: The Kitbash/Repaint Resource Thread

PostPosted: Sun Jul 27, 2014 8:02 am
by leakin' lubricant
venort wrote:Ahoy there, UK user new to repaints here looking for some advice.

In short: is there an equivalent to Krylon fusion available in england?

So, a little more info. There are no asda stores in travelling distance, so I picked up that asda/wal-mart exclusive bumblebee and strafe pack from ebay. Payment went through, error code, tried again... aaand of course got two confirmation emails. Rather than navigating the ebay/paypal order cancellation/refund minefield, I figured I'd repaint the duplicates (I've got strafe's new deco sorta figured out, haven't decided on Bee's new look yet).

I've been looking through a few tutorials, and krylon fusion is recommended for hasbro plastic. Trouble is, I can't seem to get hold of that over here. Anyone know of an alternative?

Thanks!


Hi, fellow Brit here, I used to use Plastikote for my customs, but found is wasn't durable enough for Transformers, also the clearcoat is prone to yellowing. I have recently changed to Hycote car paints, they cost the same as Plastikote but come in bigger cans, also due to them being car paint there great for colour matching to HasTak plastics. I have replaced the crappy Hasbro paint jobs on Universe Prowl, Ironhide and ROTF Superion with Hycote paints and they look great and are really durable too, hope this helps.

Re: The Kitbash/Repaint Resource Thread

PostPosted: Sun Nov 09, 2014 2:25 pm
by leakin' lubricant
Hi I have a question about the ever popular Energon Shockblast into Classics Shockwave custom, what I'm looking to do is take the head apart and paint his lightpiping yellow, however I cant see a way of taking apart the head without damaging it, can anyone who has acheived this offer me some advice, Thanks.

Re: The Kitbash/Repaint Resource Thread

PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2015 6:47 am
by Evil Eye
His head is glued together, but enterprising use of a modelling knife along the joins can split it apart.

Re: The Kitbash/Repaint Resource Thread

PostPosted: Sat Jul 30, 2016 3:54 pm
by Stealth Claw
I did make a post on my issue and I don't know where else I can ask, but I'm looking for a video showing how to do the original mp starscream mod that puts the back wing panels on the legs, due to my mp skywarp's brock off...

Re: The Kitbash/Repaint Resource Thread

PostPosted: Thu Apr 13, 2017 9:26 am
by EchoKing
AutobotJazz wrote:OK guys, here's a good place for you guys to throw out brands of paint you like, various tutorials, resource sites, or other tips and tricks you've picked up along the way. We've got a good mix of veterans and interested beginners. Let's share and pool together our strength and resources.


I'm new, how do you spray paint toys? Primer? Sealer?

Also does anyone know where to buy some g1 bumblebee like pistols that are 5mm for most generation figures? :-( (Cartoon pistol)

Re: The Kitbash/Repaint Resource Thread

PostPosted: Thu Apr 13, 2017 10:02 am
by Evil Eye
EchoKing wrote:
AutobotJazz wrote:OK guys, here's a good place for you guys to throw out brands of paint you like, various tutorials, resource sites, or other tips and tricks you've picked up along the way. We've got a good mix of veterans and interested beginners. Let's share and pool together our strength and resources.


I'm new, how do you spray paint toys? Primer? Sealer?

Also does anyone know where to buy some g1 bumblebee like pistols that are 5mm for most generation figures? :-( (Cartoon pistol)

Oh boy, where to begin?

First you'll want to disassemble your toy, which is a whole other topic. Then be sure to give the parts a good clean (being careful with anything that shouldn't get wet).

Once you have it disassembled and cleaned you'll want to prime it. You can do this either with a spray can or through an airbrush (more on that later). I recommend grey as it's a very neutral colour that most other colours look good over. Mr. Surfacer and Tamiya Primer are both great, if pricey.

Once the primer has dried and cured (which can take anything from a few hours to a few days) you'll want to check for inconsistencies (orange-peeling, graininess etc) and sand them down with progressively finer sandpaper grades.

Now you actually paint your figure. For most things you'll want to airbrush them, as it gives a very smooth and consistent finish. Buying the right airbrush is a whole other topic, but TLDR: Start off with a cheap one for practice (you WILL ruin your first airbrush) before using a decent one like an Iwata once you know how to use it.

Anyway, first you pick your paint. You can use acrylics, enamels or lacquers. Acrylics are usually water-based which means you can thin them with water, and are very easy to use. However the effects aren't usually as good for some things and they aren't very durable. Enamels I've not used much so I can't really comment. Lacquers need to be thinned with very specific thinners and are quite toxic (use in a ventilated space) in addition to being tricky to work with. However they are ridiculously durable and also look beautiful. Don't use them over bare plastic though or it will melt.

Remember, multiple thin coats are always better than one thick coat. Also, THIN YOUR PAINTS. (See above.)

If you want to have a hard barrier between two different colours on the same part you'll need to mask it. This is actually quite simple. First, spray the colour that will make up the majority of the part. Then, once it's dry and cured, use model masking tape (I recommend Tamiya tape) to cover the already painted bits you want to remain the first colour. Then spray the second colour. Once that's dry and cured, remove the masking tape.

Once you've painted everything you'll want to seal/"topcoat" it to protect the paint. You can either use your airbrush to apply bottled/potted varnish (although if you want a shiny finish, Pledge floor polish works well) or alternatively you can get some topcoat varnishes in spraycans.

Once everything is fully dry and cured, put your figure back together (taking great care not to damage the paint). Hooray! It's done!

TIPS:

Remember that parts that come in contact (such as on joints or tabs) will rub paint, so it's best to use more durable paints for these parts. Also be careful of making them too thick with the paint.

If you're just going to keep a figure as a display piece, you can afford to town on it more than if it's going to be handled/transformed. Some paints are very durable, others are quite fragile.

Pratice, practice, PRACTICE. Use plastic spoons to try out airbrushing on. Then try using a knock-off as a "test piece". You don't want to ruin your expensive figure after all.

Always be on the lookout for more information. Books on airbrushing and modelling in general are invaluable. It might be worth joining a modelling forum online for information- Gundam model communities are ideal as Gundam models are quite similar to Transformers in a lot of ways (being brightly coloured robots and all- some even transform!) and a lot of Gundam builders really know their stuff on airbrushing.

Remember that your first custom will inevitably be a mess. So A: don't worry too much when it goes badly wrong, and B: don't use an expensive toy you really like as a base. Get a cheap figure off eBay or your local bargain store.

There's a lot more to it than that, obviously, so be on the lookout for information in other communities.

Re: The Kitbash/Repaint Resource Thread

PostPosted: Thu Apr 13, 2017 10:08 am
by EchoKing
Black Hat wrote:
EchoKing wrote:
AutobotJazz wrote:OK guys, here's a good place for you guys to throw out brands of paint you like, various tutorials, resource sites, or other tips and tricks you've picked up along the way. We've got a good mix of veterans and interested beginners. Let's share and pool together our strength and resources.


I'm new, how do you spray paint toys? Primer? Sealer?

Also does anyone know where to buy some g1 bumblebee like pistols that are 5mm for most generation figures? :-( (Cartoon pistol)

Oh boy, where to begin?

First you'll want to disassemble your toy, which is a whole other topic. Then be sure to give the parts a good clean (being careful with anything that shouldn't get wet).

Once you have it disassembled and cleaned you'll want to prime it. You can do this either with a spray can or through an airbrush (more on that later). I recommend grey as it's a very neutral colour that most other colours look good over. Mr. Surfacer and Tamiya Primer are both great, if pricey.

Once the primer has dried and cured (which can take anything from a few hours to a few days) you'll want to check for inconsistencies (orange-peeling, graininess etc) and sand them down with progressively finer sandpaper grades.

Now you actually paint your figure. For most things you'll want to airbrush them, as it gives a very smooth and consistent finish. Buying the right airbrush is a whole other topic, but TLDR: Start off with a cheap one for practice (you WILL ruin your first airbrush) before using a decent one like an Iwata once you know how to use it.

Anyway, first you pick your paint. You can use acrylics, enamels or lacquers. Acrylics are usually water-based which means you can thin them with water, and are very easy to use. However the effects aren't usually as good for some things and they aren't very durable. Enamels I've not used much so I can't really comment. Lacquers need to be thinned with very specific thinners and are quite toxic (use in a ventilated space) in addition to being tricky to work with. However they are ridiculously durable and also look beautiful. Don't use them over bare plastic though or it will melt.

Remember, multiple thin coats are always better than one thick coat. Also, THIN YOUR PAINTS. (See above.)

If you want to have a hard barrier between two different colours on the same part you'll need to mask it. This is actually quite simple. First, spray the colour that will make up the majority of the part. Then, once it's dry and cured, use model masking tape (I recommend Tamiya tape) to cover the already painted bits you want to remain the first colour. Then spray the second colour. Once that's dry and cured, remove the masking tape.

Once you've painted everything you'll want to seal/"topcoat" it to protect the paint. You can either use your airbrush to apply bottled/potted varnish (although if you want a shiny finish, Pledge floor polish works well) or alternatively you can get some topcoat varnishes in spraycans.

Once everything is fully dry and cured, put your figure back together (taking great care not to damage the paint). Hooray! It's done!

TIPS:

Remember that parts that come in contact (such as on joints or tabs) will rub paint, so it's best to use more durable paints for these parts. Also be careful of making them too thick with the paint.

If you're just going to keep a figure as a display piece, you can afford to town on it more than if it's going to be handled/transformed. Some paints are very durable, others are quite fragile.

Pratice, practice, PRACTICE. Use plastic spoons to try out airbrushing on. Then try using a knock-off as a "test piece". You don't want to ruin your expensive figure after all.

Always be on the lookout for more information. Books on airbrushing and modelling in general are invaluable. It might be worth joining a modelling forum online for information- Gundam model communities are ideal as Gundam models are quite similar to Transformers in a lot of ways (being brightly coloured robots and all- some even transform!) and a lot of Gundam builders really know their stuff on airbrushing.

Remember that your first custom will inevitably be a mess. So A: don't worry too much when it goes badly wrong, and B: don't use an expensive toy you really like as a base. Get a cheap figure off eBay or your local bargain store.

There's a lot more to it than that, obviously, so be on the lookout for information in other communities.


Thanks man I appreciate it. :BOWDOWN: would you recommend using a spay on sealer?

Re: The Kitbash/Repaint Resource Thread

PostPosted: Thu Apr 13, 2017 10:19 am
by Evil Eye
As in, a spray-can? I'd always recommend using an airbrush as it gives you more control, but spray-can varnish (provided it's good stuff) should work just fine.

I should disclose BTW, most of my knowledge is what I've gleaned from other people. I'm not the best airbrusher there ever was- I have the knowledge, I just struggle to apply it. There are far more experienced people out there than me and I recommend you seek them out. Still, I'm glad to have been of help!

Re: The Kitbash/Repaint Resource Thread

PostPosted: Thu Apr 13, 2017 10:27 am
by EchoKing
Black Hat wrote:As in, a spray-can? I'd always recommend using an airbrush as it gives you more control, but spray-can varnish (provided it's good stuff) should work just fine.

I should disclose BTW, most of my knowledge is what I've gleaned from other people. I'm not the best airbrusher there ever was- I have the knowledge, I just struggle to apply it. There are far more experienced people out there than me and I recommend you seek them out. Still, I'm glad to have been of help!


Is airbrushing the technique that :HASBRO: use for their toys?

Re: The Kitbash/Repaint Resource Thread

PostPosted: Thu Apr 13, 2017 10:38 am
by Evil Eye
Hasbro usually uses factory-grade spraying machines using paints that are not commercially available. Though for some elements I'm pretty sure they are hand-sprayed using an airbrush (though again, using factory-grade paint).

Re: The Kitbash/Repaint Resource Thread

PostPosted: Wed Nov 01, 2017 10:45 am
by Decepticon Stryker
I have kind of an odd question given its specifics: what kind of paint works well with Titans Return Deluxes?

Re: The Kitbash/Repaint Resource Thread

PostPosted: Thu Jun 28, 2018 12:27 am
by The_Cryptid_Person
How do you all feel about Tamiya Spray Lacquers? I was considering using them for basecoats or re-coloring large areas, but being both spray paints AND lacquers I fear they could melt the plastic. If anyone has experience with them, it would help greatly.

Re: The Kitbash/Repaint Resource Thread

PostPosted: Thu Jun 28, 2018 10:50 am
by Evil Eye
They SHOULD be fine, and being lacquers they'll be nicely hard wearing. I don't like spraycans (not enough control over the "flow") but if you do they're a good bet. Test it out first though.

Re: The Kitbash/Repaint Resource Thread

PostPosted: Tue Feb 05, 2019 4:08 pm
by Stormtalon

Hello, I hope this is the right place to ask this question. So I got an extra Combiner Wars Firefly and I wanted to repaint it into Slingshot but I've never repainted a Transformer and can use all the help I can get.

I have an extra Firefly and the jet version of Blast Off (Lift Off). I wanted to switch heads. Lift-Off's head repainted into Slingshot and Firefly's visored head into Blast Off colors. And I wanted to repaint Firefly into Slingshot.

Has anyone had any luck redecoing Combiner Wars figures?


Re: The Kitbash/Repaint Resource Thread

PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2019 1:12 pm
by Emperor Omega
Stormtalon wrote:Has anyone had any luck redecoing Combiner Wars figures?


Image

I think I did an OK job with CW Optimus.

I mainly stuck with Acrylic paints.

The only downside I had with Acrylics, is that it's hard to clean off your brushes.

Speaking of repaints, I recently (Like, within the last 24 hours) bought the TFP RID Voyager Optimus Prime from eBay.

I'm looking to paint over the clear blue plastic on his arms. Also, touch up the chest section around his windscreens.

Does anyone know which shade of red would match up with him? I mainly use Humbrol or Revell paints.

Re: The Kitbash/Repaint Resource Thread

PostPosted: Mon Apr 29, 2019 5:03 am
by Lunatic Prime

Re: The Kitbash/Repaint Resource Thread

PostPosted: Fri May 10, 2019 6:37 am
by The_Cryptid_Person
C20277C7-D68A-402F-8D1A-D3033F3F1E42.jpeg
C20277C7-D68A-402F-8D1A-D3033F3F1E42.jpeg (36.6 KiB) Viewed 213073 times

Thinking about a nominus Prime custom... maybe Nitro Zeus could be a good base. I’d prefer an aligned aesthetic to a movie one, but RiD Warrior Prime and FoC Shockwave/air raid are too small. PRiD Skyquake is too pricey. Anyone have better ideas looking at this?

Re: The Kitbash/Repaint Resource Thread

PostPosted: Fri May 10, 2019 8:09 am
by Lunatic Prime
Latebrus-K wrote:Image
Thinking about a nominus Prime custom... maybe Nitro Zeus could be a good base. I’d prefer an aligned aesthetic to a movie one, but RiD Warrior Prime and FoC Shockwave/air raid are too small. PRiD Skyquake is too pricey. Anyone have better ideas looking at this?

Maybe Cybertron Starscream
Image

or Armada Starscream
Image
Image

or TFP BH Dreadwing
Image


Cybertron Starscream's nosecone would work perfect for Nominus Prime's nosecone and feet. As well as the transformation of the legs.
Armada Starscream's thrusters/cannons would work perfect for Nominus'es and just look at their shins.
And TFP BH Dreadwing would be a pretty interesting choice. Just attach the big cannon's ontop of his wings and the transformation of the shoulders fits pretty nicely, I think. Just attach those golden spikes that form the tip of Nominus'es jet mode.
But Nitro Zeus is still a very good choice and with the right head and some other added parts could fit into the aligned continuity ;)^

Re: The Kitbash/Repaint Resource Thread

PostPosted: Thu Jul 04, 2019 4:58 pm
by ZeldaTheSwordsman
Anybody got high-res images of Leobreaker's prototype? How about a scan of Beast Wars Universe Page 50?

Re: The Kitbash/Repaint Resource Thread

PostPosted: Tue Jul 23, 2019 10:58 am
by Lunatic Prime
Lunatic Prime wrote:
ZeldaTheSwordsman wrote:
Lunatic Prime wrote:
ZeldaTheSwordsman wrote:
Lunatic Prime wrote:And can anyone recommend a good choice of a head for a (Deluxe class) THE FALLEN custom?

ImageImage

Now I'm actually thinking about using Shuffler :-?

Image

Deluxe Optimus Prime. Snip the antennae, build up the lower crest, score the mouthplate.

"score"? I'm not a native in English, sorry. I guess you mean carving in grooves. Yea, that's what I'm a bit affraid of. Do you know a good technique?

I've already been looking a bit and found HIM a couple of minutes ago:

Image

I'd remove his halo and paint the head - that's it.

Image

But he might be a bit small for the body I intend to use...

Image
Size comparison between Deluxe and Legends Warpath:
Image

But as you mention Optimus I have a figure I intended to keep for custom parts anyway :D

Image

AND it'd save me 10 euros.

Use a steel ruler (or failing that, some other sufficiently solid straight piece of metal) as a guide. Use the tip of the knife, and go lightly, deepening the grooves through repeated passes.

Thanks for the advice. I was already thinking of using a blade instead of my small drilling machine with a grinding head but I guess with small heads like those the grooves made by a knife will be wide enough.

Hi folks,
I already had a little dicussion with two nice members of this forum about but do you have any other suggestions that didn't come to our minds?

I also found this one but I prefer complete heads:
Image

Re: The Kitbash/Repaint Resource Thread

PostPosted: Tue Jul 23, 2019 12:27 pm
by The_Cryptid_Person
I think a few versions of Wheeljack's head might work, such as the Alternators or Construct-bots ones, if you remove the ears. Cyberverse Grimlock has some good potential too, with his textured mouthplate. Combiner Wars fireflight or Brawl are also decent matches and have been OSKO'd on eBay. If I recall correctly, that Overload figure is about voyager size, which would make any official Warpath's head way too small, bar an OSKO of some kind?
Or: an Energon Mirage head with the crest cut down. The figure isn't uncommon at toy conventions and the like, often sold for parts.
It might not look good on an RiD body, but Bumblebee Movie Blitzwing's head could generally work. The larger one is rare, though, and the others may be too small.

Re: The Kitbash/Repaint Resource Thread

PostPosted: Tue Jul 23, 2019 1:04 pm
by Lunatic Prime
Latebrus-K wrote:I think a few versions of Wheeljack's head might work, such as the Alternators or Construct-bots ones, if you remove the ears. Cyberverse Grimlock has some good potential too, with his textured mouthplate. Combiner Wars fireflight or Brawl are also decent matches and have been OSKO'd on eBay. If I recall correctly, that Overload figure is about voyager size, which would make any official Warpath's head way too small, bar an OSKO of some kind?
Or: an Energon Mirage head with the crest cut down. The figure isn't uncommon at toy conventions and the like, often sold for parts.
It might not look good on an RiD body, but Bumblebee Movie Blitzwing's head could generally work. The larger one is rare, though, and the others may be too small.

Sizewise Overload is a Deluxe class figure. So no big heads. But CW Brawl sounds pretty well matching. Especially the size. I'm just not sure if I should turn my G2 Brawl or Nosecone into a headless bot. I might turn Nosecone into a Headmaster as I gave him CounterPunch's Prime armor anyway but any Titan Master will definitly not scale with him.

Re: The Kitbash/Repaint Resource Thread

PostPosted: Tue Jul 23, 2019 1:15 pm
by The_Cryptid_Person
Lunatic Prime wrote:Sizewise Overload is a Deluxe class figure. So no big heads. But CW Brawl sounds pretty well matching. Especially the size. I'm just not sure if I should turn my G2 Brawl or Nosecone into a headless bot. I might turn Nosecone into a Headmaster as I gave him CounterPunch's Prime armor anyway but any Titan Master will definitly not scale with him.

Fascinating. Sorry I missed that bit, but there are definitely 1:1 KOs of Brawl (and fireflight) on eBay if you don't feel like decapitating anybody.

Anyone have good recommendations for a CW Rotorstorm head? Thinking about RiD Stormshot, but willing to try other options. Currently, I have a headless, blue Alpha Bravo with big arms.

Re: The Kitbash/Repaint Resource Thread

PostPosted: Tue Jul 23, 2019 1:49 pm
by Lunatic Prime
Latebrus-K wrote:
Lunatic Prime wrote:Sizewise Overload is a Deluxe class figure. So no big heads. But CW Brawl sounds pretty well matching. Especially the size. I'm just not sure if I should turn my G2 Brawl or Nosecone into a headless bot. I might turn Nosecone into a Headmaster as I gave him CounterPunch's Prime armor anyway but any Titan Master will definitly not scale with him.

Fascinating. Sorry I missed that bit, but there are definitely 1:1 KOs of Brawl (and fireflight) on eBay if you don't feel like decapitating anybody.

Anyone have good recommendations for a CW Rotorstorm head? Thinking about RiD Stormshot, but willing to try other options. Currently, I have a headless, blue Alpha Bravo with big arms.

What does OSKO mean?

Maybe CW Quickslinger/Blast Off:
Image

OR
HftD Tomahawk:
Image

Re: The Kitbash/Repaint Resource Thread

PostPosted: Tue Jul 23, 2019 1:55 pm
by Lunatic Prime
Or with a bit different aesthetic this mold (click picture):

Image