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Same paints you'd use for figs from other lines...

I've already stated my preferences, but I'll repeat 'em. I use Inscribe Hobby Acrylics for the most part, with a few others for specific colours. DecoArt are okay (I'm using their matt varnish quite a bit at the mo), but avoid Anita's like the plague (only one of their paints I use is the Titanium Gold). Tamiya are pretty good, though I mostly only use the clearcoats. And if you really want to pay through the nose, you could always go for GW paints, but as I've said before, they work out ten times as expensive as the Inscribe, and frankly I don't think they're that much better, if at all.

Ramrider wrote:Same paints you'd use for figs from other lines...

I've already stated my preferences, but I'll repeat 'em. I use Inscribe Hobby Acrylics for the most part, with a few others for specific colours. DecoArt are okay (I'm using their matt varnish quite a bit at the mo), but avoid Anita's like the plague (only one of their paints I use is the Titanium Gold). Tamiya are pretty good, though I mostly only use the clearcoats. And if you really want to pay through the nose, you could always go for GW paints, but as I've said before, they work out ten times as expensive as the Inscribe, and frankly I don't think they're that much better, if at all.

Hrrm, I heard somewhere Acrylics damage the plastic? Am I thinking of something else?

Hrrm, I thought there was some difference between plastics & materials used between lines, especially G1, so the paint you should use differed between lines too. But I don't understand paints, I only use them, so I'll go with whatever you say XD

Thanks for the help ^^
I know you'd already stated your preferences, but I wanted a more "you shouldn't use ..." which is what you've now given me ^^ thanks.

Acrylics won't damage a thing. Tramp's always banging on about how enamels will eat your plastic, though.

Anita's you shouldn't use just 'cause they're crap, don't cover and won't stick properly.

Ramrider wrote:Acrylics won't damage a thing. Tramp's always banging on about how enamels will eat your plastic, though.

Anita's you shouldn't use just 'cause they're crap, don't cover and won't stick properly.

Enamels! That was it. Sorry, I have a sucky memory XD
Thanks for all your help. I have a box of acrylics downstairs but I just wanted to make sure before I started. Right, now I go to an afternoon of painting. ^^ Woot.

Well... an evening, really. Not exactly a ton of afternoon left...

So is it true that Enamles damage the plastic? My dad seems to think they'll be fine, as they're used on plastic model kits...
I don't know...

In my personal painting experience which considt of many types of media, but primarily Marvel Legends Customs, I would stear clear of enamel, BUT, I dont see how it would be a problem on hard plasics of transformer molds. Which is why most model paint is enamel (well at least the basic testors you see at places like wal-mart). The enamels NEVER drie all the way on soft rubber like capes and/or bets and what not (soft plastic/rubber) I havent ran into that yet on TF's BUT I have not used enamels on them yet either, just speaking from experience.

I use very strong and very vibrant paint called Vallejo Game Color. They also make Military color and Airbrush color... They are all Acrylic with a special resin mix for smoothness and strangth, I personally would never go back to Tamiya, Gameworkshops, Testors or anyother of my old brands. If you intrested in trying a new paint I would suggest trying thatout to see what you think.

Wes Crayon wrote:Thanks much, Ramrider -- going to head out tomorrow and pick some of those up. And you mention mixing *almost* any color -- you wouldn't happen to know of a way to mix clear colors and metallic variants, would you? Or is that where the almost part comes in?

Sorry, I didn't spot this bit. Yeah, I'd say they're pretty much an almost. You'll have trouble mixing clearcoats (although again, once you have some basic colours you can mix others), but metallics are a bit more forgiving.

To be honest, if you've got a good silver or two, you can do a lot with it by varying how much you apply (the wonders of drybrushing), and what you put it between (that is, what colours you lay it over, and what you lay over it. A silver paint can be turned into almost any other colour with a layer or two of coloured ink or clearcoat.

Ramrider wrote:

Wes Crayon wrote:Thanks much, Ramrider -- going to head out tomorrow and pick some of those up. And you mention mixing *almost* any color -- you wouldn't happen to know of a way to mix clear colors and metallic variants, would you? Or is that where the almost part comes in?

Sorry, I didn't spot this bit. Yeah, I'd say they're pretty much an almost. You'll have trouble mixing clearcoats (although again, once you have some basic colours you can mix others), but metallics are a bit more forgiving.

To be honest, if you've got a good silver or two, you can do a lot with it by varying how much you apply (the wonders of drybrushing), and what you put it between (that is, what colours you lay it over, and what you lay over it. A silver paint can be turned into almost any other colour with a layer or two of coloured ink or clearcoat.

For mixing metallics, I was reading (On Jin's site I think), that you can just use a metallic silver and then apply a clear coat of the colour you want over the top.

Yup... that the only time I still use a few tamiya colors.. Clear red, blue and yellow all look great over silver. I use a silver base with clear yellow over it to make a gold you just cant do otherwise.

ALSO, with Vellejo paints, the make MEDIUMS and one is called METTALLIC MEDIUM, it can be mixed with any normal color to make it metallic, ANY COLOR. come in quite handy if you want an obscure color like Metallic Dessert brown or somthing..lol.

Mmm... shiny chocolate pudding.

Actually, from what I've seen, there's not much difference between mixing with the metallic medium and plain silver paint; it still winds up knocking the colour down. I've actually heard a lot of good stuff about Vallejo paints, though, and I'd love to check 'em out when I'm flush again.

Another technique I've found good for metallics. Similar in some sense to the Vallejo metallic medium, Inscribe make a Pearly Glaze, which basically consists of a gloss clearcoat with mica particles suspended in it. I'll have to try actually mixing it with paint sometime to see how that looks, but when laid over a flat colour, it instantly gives a nice metallic sheen.

Your pretty much right, if you mix too much Vellejo metallic Medium rith, say... RED.. then you might wind up with pink..lol.. METALLIC pink. BUT like you said about the inscibe stuff. I used mu Vellejo Medim the same way most the time... I apply it after the the main coat.. then dry brush it on so im only getting the sheen and not the pigment

Another option, of course, is to combine the techniques; mix your metallic medium with paint to get as close as you can to the colour you're after, then once it's dried, apply a coat or two of clearcoat, glaze or drawing inks to strengthen the colour.
Back in the day, when I was still using the GW paints (many moons ago), I was really chuffed to discover that I could apply Flesh Wash over Mithril Silver to get a beautiful gold colour. That saved me buying a new pot of paint...

I bet that would be the perfect combo, Im gunna totally do it, Gotta pick up the glaze though, I planned on it anyway.

hey question has anyone done the towline to ironhide/ ratchet i have just purchased 2 towlines and im waiting for them.. and im a super newb to kitbases so any kind of help would be cool ive talked to jin and and looked at his guides but im up for any suggestions

Ramrider wrote:Back in the day, when I was still using the GW paints (many moons ago), I was really chuffed to discover that I could apply Flesh Wash over Mithril Silver to get a beautiful gold colour. That saved me buying a new pot of paint...

I don't know, I'm very proud of my seven-layer gold technique...

Seven layers?! Blimey. Is that a deliberate 'building up of highlights' thing, or is it simply because metallics can't cover for banana split?

@Prime: Tramp would be a good guy to talk to on that one; he did both of them pre-Botcon. For the most part, though, I imagine you're going for a straight repaint, especially if you're new to this. What do you need to know?

I see that Testors is kinda the forefront in paint used to redo a TF. Would this work on KO's as well. I have a cheap Lio Convoy KO that I want to turn into Black Lio Convoy, but I dont want the paint to come off like it did with my first attempt at a repaint. Any suggestions or links to the answer is much appreciated.

You shouldn't have any more trouble painting a KO than you should with a genuine TF... The only real difference is that obviously with a KO you've got less quality control (I know with some of the KOs I have, certain things don't work the way they should, joints are slightly misaligned and such), so you may want to do a bit of shaving and filing and such to make absolutely sure the base figure's as good as you can make it.
The repainting part should be no different.

Ramrider wrote:Seven layers?! Blimey. Is that a deliberate 'building up of highlights' thing, or is it simply because metallics can't cover for banana split?

Highlights. I rarely use it on Tfs, mostly on Citadel stuff. It's actually one of my more simple colour techniques.
If you're familiar with the Citadel Colour range, it goes like this, in progressive drybrushes (all mixes are 50/50) -

Black - Black/Tin Bitz - Tin Bitz - Tin Bitz/Beaten Copper - Beaten Copper - Beaten Copper/Shining Gold - Shining Gold.

If I was looking for something brighter, I'd add more steps at the end, with a gold/silver mix, then a VERY light brushing of silver, followed by a wash of brown. But that gives a wonderful rich and baroque look, rather than the silly polished gold look you'd expect from wedding rings.

And if that frightens you, do NOT ask how I paint cloth or parchment.

QUESTION: what is nail-polish remover effect on plastic and is there a better way to remove paint?

It should be okay, as long as you use it fairly sparingly; you certainly don't want to be dunking parts into the stuff because it'll warp and blister the plastic (I know, I tried it once). But if you put some on a piece of tissue or a cotton bud, it should do a decent job, although it does take some elbow grease to shift it. You'll need to be patient.

Alternatively, quite a few people use 91% rubbing alcohol to soften the paint; I haven't used it myself, but several people will leave parts in it overnight, and it makes removing the paint much easier.

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I recently discovered some annoying scratches on my Leader Class Optimus Prime. In his truck mode, the scratches are on his left fender where the flame pattern is painted. In his robot mode, the fender becomes the left calf.

The yellow paint is scratched off and it reveals red marks (which is the color of the plastic).

Does anyone know what paint I should use to touch up this part? What is the specific shade of yellow? What brand and type of paint (acrylic, spray)?

Where can I buy this paint?

Thanks.