Seibertron.com Energon Pub Forums

Posted: **Sun Jul 02, 2017 2:57 am**

Sabrblade wrote:"Monstrous articulation of his legs" is certainly an apt description.

(Note also, that he didn't move the legs at all and just sort of pointed to the general area of articulation.)

Posted: **Sun Jul 02, 2017 10:54 am**

Deathsaurus1 wrote:I hear this figures legs will snap off?
Is there a way to fix it?

Posted: **Sun Jul 02, 2017 6:25 pm**

I just sent a complaint to Hasbro about Trypticon. There have been multiple people claiming that this is a real issue (multiple means more than one), so it has to be acknowledged by the big H.

Posted: **Sun Jul 02, 2017 11:23 pm**

if they recall this item to fix it and/or we get an updated version, they also include a re-scale, so he wont fell that short next to metroplex, he is missing 6 inches

Posted: **Sun Jul 02, 2017 11:41 pm**

BERSEKAEL wrote:if they recall this item to fix it and/or we get an updated version, they also include a re-scale, so he wont fell that short next to metroplex, he is missing 6 inches

I doubt this'd happen, unfortunately(?). It'd be a tough sell getting them to even recall or update Trypticon's mold to avoid potentially toy-breaking issues, let alone convincing them somehow to upscale the mold to better match the height of their other citybots. (Bear in mind that to upscale Trypticon, even a little bit, would require literally every single piece to have an entirely new mold made for it - hence very significant extra cost on their end. On top of that, Hasbro (less so Takara, but still to some extent) is really hardline on the amount of money, plastic, paint etc. that can be sunk into any given figure. Any size increases to Trypticon would probably put the whole thing way past what Hasbro is comfortable with for a Titan-class figure.)

And on top of that, he's actually still got a lot of mass, and is certainly not undersized compared to the Maxtroplex base mold if you take all dimensions into account. He may be shorter than Gen Metroplex, but Metroplex was super skinny in basically every other direction whereas Tryp is bulky, chunky and extremely long. Seriously, his tail is somewhere between a quarter and a third of his total volume; it just so happens that because he's a dinosaur, you can't see that significant portion in a straight-on height comparison.

Man, sorry for the wall of disagreement. I totally get wanting Trypticon to be a bit taller, and hope is by no means a bad thing to have - it's just that, in this kind of case, it's worth tempering those expectations somewhat to fall in line with Hasbro's current ongoing pattern of behavior. (And yeah, as I mentioned just above, he's by no means undersized even if he's a bit vertically challenged. Trust me when I say that he still makes a very imposing foe for Fort Max, and presumably for Metroplex too if I had him.

)

Posted: **Mon Jul 03, 2017 1:23 am**

BERSEKAEL wrote:if they recall this item to fix it and/or we get an updated version, they also include a re-scale, so he wont fell that short next to metroplex, he is missing 6 inches

A recall? That's only done when a product is potentially dangerous enough for a person to be sent to the hospital under normal intended use (Note that using it as a melee weapon does not constitute intended use

), which this is not unless small pieces start breaking off for no reason. At best we'll get a running change later down the line, but given the limited runs Titan Class figures have, the chances may be relatively slim.

Posted: **Mon Jul 03, 2017 8:06 am**

I already read about "several people" with a broke Trypticon, but so far I can find only the one who posted the tutorial to fix the hip spring.
Also, I found just one videoreview done after that tutorial that mentioned that problem, and made another video about how to change the ratchet joint into a normal joint.

There are actually other people who already got Trypticon and it broke after they transformed it, and can personally write about the issue?

None the less I'll probably customize mine (when I'll get it) to avoid the risk from the start, but I'd like to know if it's actually a widespread issue or just a single bad copy.

My hope is that in the end this will be just like MP Megatron barrel issue,that broke just because it was wrongly forced by people, and not actually a design flaw.

Posted: **Mon Jul 03, 2017 8:50 am**

MadProject wrote:I already read about "several people" with a broke Trypticon, but so far I can find only the one who posted the tutorial to fix the hip spring.
Also, I found just one videoreview done after that tutorial that mentioned that problem, and made another video about how to change the ratchet joint into a normal joint.

There are actually other people who already got Trypticon and it broke after they transformed it, and can personally write about the issue?

None the less I'll probably customize mine (when I'll get it) to avoid the risk from the start, but I'd like to know if it's actually a widespread issue or just a single bad copy.

My hope is that in the end this will be just like MP Megatron barrel issue,that broke just because it was wrongly forced by people, and not actually a design flaw.

I'd love if it was just a semi-isolated issue too, but from my experience (being the guy who posted that tutorial) it's a combination of too-strong springs, and really soft plastic used on a piece where said plastic needs to resist a lot of force. I can't be certain that I didn't do something wrong - and it'd be great for other people if that was the case, so they could avoid it themselves - but in my totally-non-professional analysis of the problem, it looks like more of an engineering/materials choice issue than a consumer-end one. I'm sure we'll find out more once Trypticon gets a wider release; for now, relatively few people actually have the toy so it's hard to build a complete picture as to the nature and extent of the problem.

(Also, just a note that I'm pretty sure that video you mention came out a little before I posted my tutorial. I noticed the issue just before the video was posted here, but I didn't get around to actually making a proper tutorial until after the video had already been put up on these boards. It's worth noting that it seems the other guy and I had a totally identical issue with Tryp's hips, so that also pushes me slightly closer to 'design/execution flaw' over 'user error'.)

Posted: **Mon Jul 03, 2017 8:54 am**

Qwan wrote:
MadProject wrote:I already read about "several people" with a broke Trypticon, but so far I can find only the one who posted the tutorial to fix the hip spring.
Also, I found just one videoreview done after that tutorial that mentioned that problem, and made another video about how to change the ratchet joint into a normal joint.

There are actually other people who already got Trypticon and it broke after they transformed it, and can personally write about the issue?

None the less I'll probably customize mine (when I'll get it) to avoid the risk from the start, but I'd like to know if it's actually a widespread issue or just a single bad copy.

My hope is that in the end this will be just like MP Megatron barrel issue,that broke just because it was wrongly forced by people, and not actually a design flaw.

I'd love if it was just a semi-isolated issue too, but from my experience (being the guy who posted that tutorial) it's a combination of too-strong springs, and really soft plastic used on a piece where said plastic needs to resist a lot of force. I can't be certain that I didn't do something wrong - and it'd be great for other people if that was the case, so they could avoid it themselves - but in my totally-non-professional analysis of the problem, it looks like more of an engineering/materials choice issue than a consumer-end one. I'm sure we'll find out more once Trypticon gets a wider release; for now, relatively few people actually have the toy so it's hard to build a complete picture as to the nature and extent of the problem.

(Also, just a note that I'm pretty sure that video you mention came out a little before I posted my tutorial. I noticed the issue just before the video was posted here, but I didn't get around to actually making a proper tutorial until after the video had already been put up on these boards. It's worth noting that it seems the other guy and I had a totally identical issue with Tryp's hips, so that also pushes me slightly closer to 'design/execution flaw' over 'user error'.)

understood. I love the design of this Trypticon, so I'll still get it, and I'll use your way to fix the hips.
Small question about that tutorial:
other than cutting the spring, is there a way to "flatten" a bit the last part, to make it looking like the actual end of the spring?
This way, it should avoid any eventual scratching on the plastic.
I'm not an engeneer, or a mechanic, so I don't even know if what I'm saying is doable.

Posted: **Mon Jul 03, 2017 9:00 am**

Nipping that wire leaves a pretty sharp tip. I bet one could use a rasp or file to file that tip down so it's not so destructive. Also thought alternatively, you could wrap the end in a generous amount of electrical tape.

Posted: **Mon Jul 03, 2017 9:17 am**

Cobotron wrote:Nipping that wire leaves a pretty sharp tip. I bet one could use a rasp or file to file that tip down so it's not so destructive. Also thought alternatively, you could wrap the end in a generous amount of electrical tape.

I was thinking about covering the tip with a soft rubber cup, or round it with sandpaper.
If you can bend the spring as I meant in my last post, it should sit flat on the surface, and it wouldn't scratch the plastic.

Posted: **Mon Jul 03, 2017 9:39 am**

MadProject wrote:
Cobotron wrote:Nipping that wire leaves a pretty sharp tip. I bet one could use a rasp or file to file that tip down so it's not so destructive. Also thought alternatively, you could wrap the end in a generous amount of electrical tape.

I was thinking about covering the tip with a soft rubber cup, or round it with sandpaper.
If you can bend the spring as I meant in my last post, it should sit flat on the surface, and it wouldn't scratch the plastic.

The springs are really tough, so while it might be possible to bend them flat you'd definitely have a hard time doing it. (Plus it'd make the cut-down springs that much shorter, where about half-length is nearly the shortest they can be before the ratchet stops catching.) A rubber/electrical-tape cup or sanding the tip should work though - provided you keep in mind that sanding or filing metal is also probably gonna take a fair while! ;)^

Personally I just added a couple layers of cardboard between the inner housing for the spring, and the spring itself (it's one of the 'optional' steps in the tutorial, I believe). It stops the spring from scratching thanks to the extra padding, and also adds a little more strength to the ratchet without them becoming self-destructively strong again. I've got two layers of cardboard, each about 1-2mm thick, in mine's hips right now and that works quite well! (I'd guess that around 3 or 4 layers would be right about perfect, but I honestly just can't be bothered disassembling the hips for like the seventh time :lol:

)

Posted: **Mon Jul 03, 2017 9:47 am**

Qwan wrote:
MadProject wrote:
Cobotron wrote:Nipping that wire leaves a pretty sharp tip. I bet one could use a rasp or file to file that tip down so it's not so destructive. Also thought alternatively, you could wrap the end in a generous amount of electrical tape.

I was thinking about covering the tip with a soft rubber cup, or round it with sandpaper.
If you can bend the spring as I meant in my last post, it should sit flat on the surface, and it wouldn't scratch the plastic.

The springs are really tough, so while it might be possible to bend them flat you'd definitely have a hard time doing it. (Plus it'd make the cut-down springs that much shorter, where about half-length is nearly the shortest they can be before the ratchet stops catching.) A rubber/electrical-tape cup or sanding the tip should work though - provided you keep in mind that sanding or filing metal is also probably gonna take a fair while!

Personally I just added a couple layers of cardboard between the inner housing for the spring, and the spring itself (it's one of the 'optional' steps in the tutorial, I believe). It stops the spring from scratching thanks to the extra padding, and also adds a little more strength to the ratchet without them becoming self-destructively strong again. I've got two layers of cardboard, each about 1-2mm thick, in mine's hips right now and that works quite well! (I'd guess that around 3 or 4 layers would be right about perfect, but I honestly just can't be bothered disassembling the hips for like the seventh time )

well, the flattening could be a problem just in case you cut the spring in half.
If you work on both the springs (instead of making 2 out of 1) you should be able to shorten and flat them.
If it's possible, with a bit of patience, to flatten the end of the spring, there wouldn't be the need of a cardboard disk at all, expect just to have some more thickness in the ratchet joint.
Do you think it's possible to make or not?

Posted: **Mon Jul 03, 2017 5:11 pm**

MadProject wrote:
Qwan wrote:[snip]

well, the flattening could be a problem just in case you cut the spring in half.
If you work on both the springs (instead of making 2 out of 1) you should be able to shorten and flat them.
If it's possible, with a bit of patience, to flatten the end of the spring, there wouldn't be the need of a cardboard disk at all, expect just to have some more thickness in the ratchet joint.
Do you think it's possible to make or not?

I think it could work, in theory! Using both springs instead of the one is definitely a good way to make them a little longer, and with a good amount of patience you might be able to bend the bottom end of each spring into place. The springs are very sturdy though (since the entire idea of a spring is to flex to varying degrees, but never bend permanently), so it'll require a lot of effort and patience, or some creativity in finding a way to make the spring temporarily more malleable. I'd think that maybe heating them up could help, but absolutely don't take my word on that since I honestly have no idea when it comes to heating metal (or most anything in life, actually

).

Posted: **Mon Jul 03, 2017 8:31 pm**

Hasbro sorta did a recall of the legacy AT-AT. You could return it for a fixed mold or they would send you new legs.

Posted: **Tue Jul 04, 2017 11:06 am**

Qwan wrote:
MadProject wrote:
Qwan wrote:[snip]

well, the flattening could be a problem just in case you cut the spring in half.
If you work on both the springs (instead of making 2 out of 1) you should be able to shorten and flat them.
If it's possible, with a bit of patience, to flatten the end of the spring, there wouldn't be the need of a cardboard disk at all, expect just to have some more thickness in the ratchet joint.
Do you think it's possible to make or not?

I think it could work, in theory! Using both springs instead of the one is definitely a good way to make them a little longer, and with a good amount of patience you might be able to bend the bottom end of each spring into place. The springs are very sturdy though (since the entire idea of a spring is to flex to varying degrees, but never bend permanently), so it'll require a lot of effort and patience, or some creativity in finding a way to make the spring temporarily more malleable. I'd think that maybe heating them up could help, but absolutely don't take my word on that since I honestly have no idea when it comes to heating metal (or most anything in life, actually ).

I don't know if you're interested, but I'm looking online and it looks like bending a spring is possible. I'll try once I'll got my Trypticon, if I see that his ratchet joints will be too hard.
Or eventually I'll check online for a couple of springs

Posted: **Tue Jul 04, 2017 5:00 pm**

While we're still waiting with bated breath about what Hasbro and Takara will or won't do to rectify Trypticon's lying hips (Oh yes, those hips DO, in fact, lie), I've got a different question. It's looking like there is no SDCC version of Trypticon coming our way, so the only two versions will be Hasbro's and Takara's mass retail releases. Is anyone going to bother getting Takara's with the higher price tag (for importing outside of Japan)? If so, why? Right now, both releases look nigh identical with only the smallest of details differentiating the two, and those details are of questionable importance in terms of G1 cartoon or toy accuracy anyway. I preordered the Takara version of Trypticon as soon as it was available, but I may cancel it and just buy the Hasbro version when it comes out, saving myself quite a bit of money. For the previous Titan Class releases, I went with Takara for Devastator (easily the best version) and Fortress Maximus (better cartoon accurate colors and way better Master Sword paint apps) and SDCC for Metroplex (love that chrome paint). This may be the first mass retail Hasbro Titan Class figure I get since the only alternative is more expensive for seemingly no added benefit or valuable distinction.

Posted: **Wed Jul 05, 2017 2:07 am**

MadProject wrote:
Qwan wrote:
MadProject wrote:
Qwan wrote:[snip]

well, the flattening could be a problem just in case you cut the spring in half.
If you work on both the springs (instead of making 2 out of 1) you should be able to shorten and flat them.
If it's possible, with a bit of patience, to flatten the end of the spring, there wouldn't be the need of a cardboard disk at all, expect just to have some more thickness in the ratchet joint.
Do you think it's possible to make or not?

I think it could work, in theory! Using both springs instead of the one is definitely a good way to make them a little longer, and with a good amount of patience you might be able to bend the bottom end of each spring into place. The springs are very sturdy though (since the entire idea of a spring is to flex to varying degrees, but never bend permanently), so it'll require a lot of effort and patience, or some creativity in finding a way to make the spring temporarily more malleable. I'd think that maybe heating them up could help, but absolutely don't take my word on that since I honestly have no idea when it comes to heating metal (or most anything in life, actually ).

I don't know if you're interested, but I'm looking online and it looks like bending a spring is possible. I'll try once I'll got my Trypticon, if I see that his ratchet joints will be too hard.
Or eventually I'll check online for a couple of springs

Definitely let me know how it goes! I'm pretty happy with my solution for now, but it's by no means perfect; if people start coming up with better solutions as they get their hands on this (otherwise awesome, I stand by this!) figure, I'm all ears.

Posted: **Wed Jul 05, 2017 11:10 am**

A 3P upgrade kit that replaces the "cross" of the ratchets (the bit susceptible to tearing due to the shoddiness of the materials) with either really dense plastic or ideally metal would be a great idea. Someone get on it.

Posted: **Wed Jul 05, 2017 11:20 am**

I could see that being part of an upgrade kit which would also contain things like Brunt and extra weapons.

Posted: **Wed Jul 05, 2017 11:27 am**

Kurona wrote:I could see that being part of an upgrade kit which would also contain things like Brunt and extra weapons.

Ooooh I like your thinking. I'd love it if they pulled an Iron Factory Slammer and made Brunt with a robot mode. Likewise, a bunch of TM sized figures with better articulation would rock for crewing him with. Design them after the "hardhat" generic humans with some kind of brainwashing device on them perhaps?

Posted: **Wed Jul 05, 2017 11:35 am**

Black Hat wrote:
Kurona wrote:I could see that being part of an upgrade kit which would also contain things like Brunt and extra weapons.

Ooooh I like your thinking. I'd love it if they pulled an Iron Factory Slammer and made Brunt with a robot mode. Likewise, a bunch of TM sized figures with better articulation would rock for crewing him with. Design them after the "hardhat" generic humans with some kind of brainwashing device on them perhaps?

Brunt with a robot mode that's Titan Master compatible

Posted: **Wed Jul 05, 2017 1:52 pm**

Black Hat wrote:A 3P upgrade kit that replaces the "cross" of the ratchets (the bit susceptible to tearing due to the shoddiness of the materials) with either really dense plastic or ideally metal would be a great idea. Someone get on it.

I don't know how much that is doable. It should be one solid piece, so basically you'd have to change all the base for the hip

Posted: **Wed Jul 05, 2017 2:31 pm**

I really should get around to busting mine out of his box.

Posted: **Wed Jul 05, 2017 5:54 pm**

Burn wrote:I really should get around to busting mine out of his box.

Just make sure you don't bust the toy itself

MadProject wrote:
Black Hat wrote:A 3P upgrade kit that replaces the "cross" of the ratchets (the bit susceptible to tearing due to the shoddiness of the materials) with either really dense plastic or ideally metal would be a great idea. Someone get on it.

I don't know how much that is doable. It should be one solid piece, so basically you'd have to change all the base for the hip

MadProject's right, the cross piece is the same part as the entire base of the hip, so not only would it require a large amount of disassembly (if it even can be disassembled by the consumer; I'll have to look at that) but it'd also be two rather large pieces of metal/sturdy plastic. And given how much even the small 3P products tend to cost...

If it is possible though, that would be totally great! Certainly would be a good move for some 3rd party company or another, since it wouldn't even require any new engineering on its own, just copying an existing part. (And since there was enough demand for better combiner extremities that multiple 3Ps each made their own of those, I can only imagine that there'll be fairly significant demand for a replacement part that stops the figure from destroying itself immediately :lol:

.)

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