The Energon Pub

I got this with some shipping damage and wondered if there's a really good glue out there. The various brands of super glue I've tried seem to only work on things you don't want glued together (like the back fins of a g1 starscream I bought) but everything you want glued falls back apart in one touch.

Super Bonder!

Im curious to see what the other member say.

If you've got the tools and skill for it the best way to fix that would be to drill a hole in each side and glue a piece of wire between them. That will make a stronger bond than glue alone.

It looks like a clean break, I would use original superglue, but if you don't feel confident an epoxy like JB Weld should work.
I think the real trick is to set it set. Too often after 20 minutes we get anxious and want to fuss with it before it cures. Then it becomes a mess

When I was doing service work on swimming pools we would use a low voc primer and then a low voc glue on pvc pipes. When that stuff set there was no way it would come undone. That stuff might not be great for the Trypticon part though, the primer is strong and may melt the plastic.

I ALWAYS use epoxy to fix breaks and whatnot. I use that sh!t on everything. If it's broken that is.

The epoxy i use is a pretty high end two part system though called SystemThree QuickCure 5 minute epoxy. It's made for industrial applications for the most part but is super easy to work with and the smallest, tiniest amounts can hold anything together.
It's not messy in the least either.

I use cheapo 2-part epoxy from the dollar store. Works great for all sorts of things Just leave it to set for over an hour at least before touching it, then leave it for another 24 hours to fully cure before using reassembling it

Evil_the_Nub wrote:If you've got the tools and skill for it the best way to fix that would be to drill a hole in each side and glue a piece of wire between them. That will make a stronger bond than glue alone.

I was going to say that. It's very difficult to drill the hole in the exactly aligning place of both pieces.

TFs use different types of plastic for different parts of a figure. Some plastic is easy to cut, others are very hard work. Superglue works on some plastic but not others. Other times superglue will work but only if left for half an hour to cure whereas on most plastics it works in seconds. Two part epoxy glues have greater chance of success.

I concur with the epoxy suggestion. I used it on my Hybrid Style Prime after I snapped the knee joint, The epoxy holds it together well (although I am more careful with that leg because I know of the break). I also managed to open a door onto my own face when wearing glasses, I glued the arm with the hinge attached back to the frame, and the glasses have been fine ever since. That was years ago. Epoxy is great, just make sure that you mix the two glues thoroughly and equally, and have a damp cloth on hand to wipe off overspill.

This epoxy idea seems like it's probably the best, but if you want to try the superglue route, get some hobby-grade CA glue. Stuff is a lot stronger bond that your average superglue, but I've had limited success in repairing TFs. You also have to make extra sure you don't use too much because it's a lot thinner than standard superglue.

Super glue still leaves a white mess and I really want to try something like an epoxy. Any other names that can be used. I figure I go to a hobby shop to find the alternative to Super glue.

I've only had to glue something once, but when PCC Leadfoot's left arm snapped off (as the bicep swivel tends to do, bad engineering and such), I put it back on with some gorilla glue. Worked like a charm, but that was a pretty big piece.

I've used Gorilla glue and the Games Workshop glue both to great effect. I find using less than you think you need is actually the right amount.