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After a horrifying start with enamel thinner, which melted my Leader Prime to at least 5 pieces; I decided to give this hobby another shot, and this is what it came to so far:







Currently working on a Final Battle Jazz to use in car mode, then perhaps repaint wreckage and brawl deluxes for fun!

What I really want to do is get a extra Leader Prime and repaint it back to G1 style!

not bad.

but...You should give Enamels another try (hehe)

Thats nice.
But how the hell did you crack LC Prime using enamels? Put the wrong thinner in it? Give some details please.

very very nice, i particularly like brawl-maybe u could try n ink wash over then to add a little more dept? Maybe, i aint a kitbasher

BLACKOUT2007 wrote:Thats nice.
But how the hell did you crack LC Prime using enamels? Put the wrong thinner in it? Give some details please.

I did a black-wash with enamels. The solution I used was 1/3rd flat-black enamel along with 2/3rds enamel thinner. The brand I used was Testors.

After washing for about 10 minutes one leg broke off. 10 minutes later another leg broke off, few minutes later one arm broke off. After all said and done, both arms and legs broke off, and the chest piece cracked.

I think it was due to the high concentration of enamel thinner that I used to coat the prime.

So...if I ever used enamels I would never use its thinner directly on the toy!

GrimSqueaker wrote:very very nice, i particularly like brawl-maybe u could try n ink wash over then to add a little more dept? Maybe, i aint a kitbasher

I might give it a light coat of black wash later on this week Thanks for the advice!

Great work! I really like your Jazz most of all.

glad to see that your bad experience with your leader prime didn't stop you from repainting again. keep up the good work!

Great works!

Let's also see the melted Prime.

Auto Bot wrote:Great works!

Let's also see the melted Prime.

I second that.

Auto Bot wrote:Great works!

Let's also see the melted Prime.

Can't returned to Costco! If you are bored, melt one yourself just by putting Testor's Enamel thinner over the joint areas.

How the hell could they accept it back? You melted it!
You got a full refund?

BLACKOUT2007 wrote:How the hell could they accept it back? You melted it!
You got a full refund?

Told them exactly why it was in 5+ peices and they took it back

Thats a good ass store!

Update on the Brawl: Still a work in progress...

Feel free to give suggestions on how to make it better!

funny, you have no evidence of this melted prime. Mine's (like I've said 100 times) painted head to toe in Enamels, LOTS and LOTS of thinner was used, hell, even some parts I had to remove the paint to redo..using thinner, and he held up great.

anyway...


suggestions on your Brawl...
(this goes for all repaints)

pick a color scheme. Brawl for instance would make good set using dark green (main color) and an accent color(s), I used red and gold. if you have trouble visualizing color schemes, open microsoft paint (unless you have better) and actually create some rectangles of the colors you intend to use. If they work well and accent one another, go for it. if not, change them up.

For my brawl, I used dark green (main color) with variations of that dark green (3-5 click lighter shades and darker) I painted most his gears silver, gold and black metallic. Then I added some red for wiring, and accents.

[quote="frenzy_rumble"]funny, you have no evidence of this melted prime. Mine's (like I've said 100 times) painted head to toe in Enamels, LOTS and LOTS of thinner was used, hell, even some parts I had to remove the paint to redo..using thinner, and he held up great.
quote]

I still have leftover flat-black enamel and thinner. Send me a Leader Prime and I guarantee I can melt it with this wash.

I already told you my Sister returned it to Costco, I wish I took some pictures.

Another thing, why would I even make up a story about a "melted prime"? I wanted to use enamels, that's why I bought them.

out of curiousity...

a) what temperature room did you do this in

b) how old was the thinner?

c) did you wash the prime with soap/water or if you did, what kind

d) how long did the wash sit in some of the cracks/crevises?

frenzy_rumble wrote:out of curiousity...

a) what temperature room did you do this in

b) how old was the thinner?

c) did you wash the prime with soap/water or if you did, what kind

d) how long did the wash sit in some of the cracks/crevises?

1) I live in Southern California, I believe it was just a normal day that day... So... around 76 degrees farenheit.

2) The age of the thinner... no clue... picked it up from Wal-mart for 1 dollar.

3) Nope, I applied everything straight on.

4) The wash sat in the cracks for about 15-20 minutes then it started showing signs of weakening.

I'm gonna guess #4 did it.

I usually work in a nice hot dry climate as well (southern california also) humidity sometimes will retard the thinner's dry time, giving it time to corrode the plastic.

Wash with soap and water? Never heard of that kind of procedure.

Kingplay wrote:Update on the Brawl: Still a work in progress...

Feel free to give suggestions on how to make it better!

just curious on how you are painting this are u using different coats of colors on different parts of him all at once or u did a base paint all over him before applying different tones thx ! check my brawl to get some ideas in this forum.

sainte786 wrote:just curious on how you are painting this are u using different coats of colors on different parts of him all at once or u did a base paint all over him before applying different tones thx ! check my brawl to get some ideas in this forum.

Well, at first I painted it with a lighter green. That later became my "base coat". What I am really doing is painting multiple coats on top of each other (not on purpose), but to tweak it out to the way I want it. Now I am applying different tones~

it's alwasy best to work with darkest shades, then work in lighter shades. Adds depth to your color.

The whole bot looks silvery. I think it will be better if you can make him flat. At least for all the green parts. Military vehicles are always in flat colors. To minimize glare and detection.