Rhinox23 wrote:Hey guys. I'm planning on starting my first customization here soon...TFP Beast Hunters Starscream into Beast Wars Terrosaur! I've read all of the posts in this thread and have a great point to start from. However, I do have once question regarding shiny metallic paints in particular. Do they pose any specific issues? For example, must a primer be used? Is enamel metallic vs. acrylic metallic paint better? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
SKYWARPED_128 wrote:The thing about metallic paints is that they tend to come off more easily than solid colors (if I'm not mistaken) due to the metal particles in the paint. Primer is recommended to give the paint some "tooth" to grab onto the surface.
As far as enamel vs acrylics, enamels are tougher than acrylics and "bite" into the plastic more, which in turn presents the issue of melting plastic. That said, a coat of primer should protect the plastic surface. I've never personally used enamels, but it supposedly takes longer to dry than acrylics.
Acrylic is the "gentlest" of paint mediums, as it is the least corrosive against plastic. But that also means that it is the most easily scratched off. Again, a coat of primer will help with adhesion. NOTE: Tamiya acrylics are formulated for use with an airbrush. Applying these paints with paint brushes will generally give you a an uneven coat of paint, especially on large areas. If you must use a paint brush with Tamiya paints, limit it to detailing work or small areas.
BTW, most if not all spray paint is lacquer based, which is the most corrosive of the three paint types. Make sure to apply the paint in light coats instead of one heavy coat.
Clear coating a metallic surface is also recommended to protect it from constant handling. If you can get your hands on Future Floor Polish, it's probably the best candidate to protect your painted surface, as it leaves a tough, glossy surface. And since it's acrylic-based, it's also safe enough to use over all three paint types.
NOTE: Certain metallic paints cannot be coated with clear spray, such as Tamiya's TS-83 metallic silver. Doing so will turn that shiny silver surface into a dull gray.
TL;DR, whatever you choose to use, applying primer is always a good idea.
Tamiya acrylics are meant to be used with an airbrush.
Future Floor Polish makes the best glossy clear coat, and can even be applied with a paint brush.
Hope this helps.
Rhinox23 wrote:SKYWARPED_128 wrote:The thing about metallic paints is that they tend to come off more easily than solid colors (if I'm not mistaken) due to the metal particles in the paint. Primer is recommended to give the paint some "tooth" to grab onto the surface.
As far as enamel vs acrylics, enamels are tougher than acrylics and "bite" into the plastic more, which in turn presents the issue of melting plastic. That said, a coat of primer should protect the plastic surface. I've never personally used enamels, but it supposedly takes longer to dry than acrylics.
Acrylic is the "gentlest" of paint mediums, as it is the least corrosive against plastic. But that also means that it is the most easily scratched off. Again, a coat of primer will help with adhesion. NOTE: Tamiya acrylics are formulated for use with an airbrush. Applying these paints with paint brushes will generally give you a an uneven coat of paint, especially on large areas. If you must use a paint brush with Tamiya paints, limit it to detailing work or small areas.
BTW, most if not all spray paint is lacquer based, which is the most corrosive of the three paint types. Make sure to apply the paint in light coats instead of one heavy coat.
Clear coating a metallic surface is also recommended to protect it from constant handling. If you can get your hands on Future Floor Polish, it's probably the best candidate to protect your painted surface, as it leaves a tough, glossy surface. And since it's acrylic-based, it's also safe enough to use over all three paint types.
NOTE: Certain metallic paints cannot be coated with clear spray, such as Tamiya's TS-83 metallic silver. Doing so will turn that shiny silver surface into a dull gray.
TL;DR, whatever you choose to use, applying primer is always a good idea.
Tamiya acrylics are meant to be used with an airbrush.
Future Floor Polish makes the best glossy clear coat, and can even be applied with a paint brush.
Hope this helps.
Thanks for all of your advice! I will definitely plan out what paints I intend to buy according to your tips. I really appreciate the help.
Mindewipe24 wrote:Has anyone found a particular type of paint to use on the soft rubber that some transformers have? I tried testors acrylics so far and it does indeed dry awesome, but it flakes off. Any help or tips would be welcome
SW's SilverHammer wrote:Eat my ass funpub.
Burn wrote:And this is for taking Nemesis Maximo seriously.
*high fives Silly in the face*
carytheone wrote:I can't be assed to do any better right now.
Nemesis Maximo wrote:To the big time customizers here, how would you reccommend adding scars to my figures? Do you just cut details with exacto knives, or would you use a saudering iron?
SW's SilverHammer wrote:Eat my ass funpub.
Burn wrote:And this is for taking Nemesis Maximo seriously.
*high fives Silly in the face*
carytheone wrote:I can't be assed to do any better right now.
SkyWarpsGhost wrote:I recently got 2012 Predaking and he has a problem.
The glue on the original factory sticker sheet has dried up, but the stickers still come off fine. Just don't stick very well.
I'm looking for something I could brush on or some other method to try to re use the original sticker sheet.
I've a re-production sticker sheet, but it's no where near as good as the original.
Does anyone have any experience in crafting a head from a type of putty or clay? If so, what type would you use?
The best way to remove one ended pins (especially pesky wheel ones)? Drill 'em out! I use a 1mm drill bit to drill in from the other side. Then pin-push then out and fill in the holes... No one will ever know
Maximalnomore wrote:The best way to remove one ended pins (especially pesky wheel ones)? Drill 'em out! I use a 1mm drill bit to drill in from the other side. Then pin-push then out and fill in the holes... No one will ever know
Or, just heat the surface of the pin with a soldering iron. You don't need to melt the plastic, just heat it enough so that you can putt the pin free. It'll slide right out... No one will ever know
Also, this usually doesn't damage the pin, so you can reuse it for something else later if you need it.
warzon3 wrote:Does anyone know of anything stronger than Future Floor polish?
It seems to work if you don't plan to transform customs, but if things slightly rub, it seems not to hold up, especially over metallic enamel paints.
Is there any thing that you can use over both acrylics and enamels that is heavy duty strong?
What do the official factories use?
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