The Energon Pub

Scrap, I just realize this is the thread I should be posting my toy disassembling questions.

Anyways, I'm wondering if anyone here knows how to remove the clear headlights on TF's. Certain ones like Movierverse Swindle and RTS Bumblebee have tinted headlights, which is cool, but they look fake because the plastic underneath is showing through.

In order to paint under the plastic headlights, I naturally need to remove the headlights but can't seem to find a way to do so. I'm hesitant pry them off for fear of damaging the plastic.

Thanks in advance.

Arlekkin wrote:I've been trying to remove the pins from the lower leg of Tomahawk, but the pin won't budge (even after hammering). Should I heat a bit the plastic (with a hairdryer) before hammering?

Soldering iron. Take a look at the pin first. You'll notice one side is flush with the plastic, and the other is recessed a bit. Heat the soldering iron until it's nice and hot. Then, touch it to the flush end of the pin. Be very careful not to touch the plastic or it will melt beyond repair! Heat the pin for around 30 seconds, then quickly tap the other end with the hammer and nail. This may take a few tries but, it works. I also suggest practicing on some junkers first, so that you don't ruin your Tomahawk figure.

I am a huge TF fan and have long appreciated the kitbashing of G1's, esp on the big guys like Omega and Metroplex.

I have been very sucessful on kitbashing those 2 and I feel that I wanna tackle a couple of combiners next (i.e. Menasor & Superion). I am 90% sure of what direction I wanna go.

I like the combiner design of Menasor by FrenzyRumble and I am well on my way...buuuuuuut...I dont know what was used as the combiner ports for the arms and legs. I would realy like to know what is the BEST materials to use for this.

I know this must be a simple fix. Can anyone point the way?

I'm trying to do a headswap between the walmart exclusive dotm bumblebee and rotf deluxe soundwave. So far I've simply been trying to plug soundwave's head into the bumblebee body, but that hasn't been working. It looks like either the plastic on the head sticks too far from the socket for bumblebee's peg to fit it or the pastic around bee's peg is conflicting with the head I'm not sure. Does any one have any ideas on what I should do? This is my first attempt at something like this besides a sideswipe repaint so forgive my naivete. If I should shave down the plastic how would I go about doing it? I'm thinking that I should probably shave off around the ball peg because I'm afraid of ruining the socket on soundwave's head. Any advice on this would be great.

ricemazter wrote:I'm trying to do a headswap between the walmart exclusive dotm bumblebee and rotf deluxe soundwave. So far I've simply been trying to plug soundwave's head into the bumblebee body, but that hasn't been working. It looks like either the plastic on the head sticks too far from the socket for bumblebee's peg to fit it or the pastic around bee's peg is conflicting with the head I'm not sure. Does any one have any ideas on what I should do? This is my first attempt at something like this besides a sideswipe repaint so forgive my naivete. If I should shave down the plastic how would I go about doing it? I'm thinking that I should probably shave off around the ball peg because I'm afraid of ruining the socket on soundwave's head. Any advice on this would be great.

You have the right idea with shaving the ball on the head. I'd suggest using some 1000 grit sand paper(automotive type is fine) or using a nail file and then smoothing off with the sand paper. Go slowly and test fit it often, as you can easily sand more and don't want to take off too much. Good luck and have fun customizing

KnightStrike wrote:
You have the right idea with shaving the ball on the head. I'd suggest using some 1000 grit sand paper(automotive type is fine) or using a nail file and then smoothing off with the sand paper. Go slowly and test fit it often, as you can easily sand more and don't want to take off too much. Good luck and have fun customizing

Just a little more info on my problem if that alters the advice at all. My main dillema is the additional plastic on soundwave's head and or the length of the ball peg on bumblebee. I'm stuck between either shaving off plastic around the peg or shaving off plastic on the head. The peg is not static and sits on its own joint that connects it to the body, which I'm afraid will weaken and break if I shave off plastic there. The plastic on the head comes off of the head's ball socket, which I'm afraid I will ruin by shaving around it, making the head useless unless I glue it or something. One thing I noticed between the two figures is that soundwave's head peg is longer than bee's so at one point I thought of cutting them off and gluing them back to the new body. My thinking now is that it would be a drastic step, and I risk irreperably ruining both figures. This idea is actually based off of one I saw on youtube by Gabstaify http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KeZo29okh0c only I'm trying to make sure this version can still transform. Can anyone tell what he did to make the head fit? It looks to me that the space between the head torso and peg is larger than it would be unaltered on the same mold but I can't really tell.
Anyway I was just providing some more info on my dillema for anyone who wants to take a crack at it. Thanks for any and all advice.

Hey guys I was browsing for a pin punch online today and came across this tool. I was wondering what you guys think, and if it would be anygood for removing pins instead of the pin punch, hammer method.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jewelers-Deluxe ... vi-content

hey guys, not sure if this was asked before, but what do you guys think of using nail polish as paints for figures? been experimenting with the idea after finding colors ive been looking for in the polishes that i cant find in normal model paints.

Mindewipe24 wrote:Hey guys I was browsing for a pin punch online today and came across this tool. I was wondering what you guys think, and if it would be anygood for removing pins instead of the pin punch, hammer method.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jewelers-Deluxe ... vi-content

I'd be curious to try that thing. It looks like it would be pretty handy and reminds me of a drill press. Thanks for the link, I never knew such a tool existed

grimdragon2001 wrote:hey guys, not sure if this was asked before, but what do you guys think of using nail polish as paints for figures? been experimenting with the idea after finding colors ive been looking for in the polishes that i cant find in normal model paints.

I have used clear nail polish to tighten up joints with no issues, but I'm not sure how difficult it would be to get a smooth thin finish with nail polish. If you have some scrap plastic you can give it a shot. I wouldn't think adhesion would be an issue for you either.

Ok been searching for a way to remove the head from energon barricade, or any incarnation of the mold. but cant find anyting anywhere.

So can anyone help me out with this???? really want to get that head off for a custom. replay here or PM either way is fine thanks.

im interested in knowing how to make new heads or other parts for figure -ive been wanting to try a few things

making an iron fist -would need a head
some of the shattered glass characters -repaints and i would need different heads for some

also an idea i have for turning bumble bee second printing form primes into a shattered glass version the generic troops form primes -his arm cannons and the fact they attach in car mode gave me the idea

chaosmage42 wrote:im interested in knowing how to make new heads or other parts for figure -ive been wanting to try a few things

making an iron fist -would need a head
some of the shattered glass characters -repaints and i would need different heads for some

also an idea i have for turning bumble bee second printing form primes into a shattered glass version the generic troops form primes -his arm cannons and the fact they attach in car mode gave me the idea

Most of the time you can swap heads out from other TFs just by adding a ball joint to the neck of shaving a little off here and there to get them to fit. You can use an xacto knife to trim pieces off and reshape faces some, then epoxy on other bits of plastic to make faceplates or other alterations. Check the buy, sell, trade forums here on Seibertron.com for people selling parts you may need, like a particular head. Also look into shapeways.com where people have some great things available, like this Ironfist head http://www.shapeways.com/model/660157/w ... Box-search
Experiment and see what works best for you. Good luck

ill try that thanks -see if i can check a few yard sales and the discount area of walmart after xmas might be something there.

Also what scale is that ironfist head for -i don't want to use that particular body its mean for -im not a big fan of the bayformers but what size is it i can't tell

I would like to take my Classics 2.0 Ironhide and turn him into Soundwave using WFC deluxe Soundwave's head. I have a clear idea of what I'm doing (head-swap and repaint), bit I wanted to know if anyone has attempted anything similar, and had any tips on what did or didn't work for them.

Hey guys. I'm planning on starting my first customization here soon...TFP Beast Hunters Starscream into Beast Wars Terrosaur! I've read all of the posts in this thread and have a great point to start from. However, I do have once question regarding shiny metallic paints in particular. Do they pose any specific issues? For example, must a primer be used? Is enamel metallic vs. acrylic metallic paint better? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Rhinox23 wrote:Hey guys. I'm planning on starting my first customization here soon...TFP Beast Hunters Starscream into Beast Wars Terrosaur! I've read all of the posts in this thread and have a great point to start from. However, I do have once question regarding shiny metallic paints in particular. Do they pose any specific issues? For example, must a primer be used? Is enamel metallic vs. acrylic metallic paint better? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

The thing about metallic paints is that they tend to come off more easily than solid colors (if I'm not mistaken) due to the metal particles in the paint. Primer is recommended to give the paint some "tooth" to grab onto the surface.

As far as enamel vs acrylics, enamels are tougher than acrylics and "bite" into the plastic more, which in turn presents the issue of melting plastic. That said, a coat of primer should protect the plastic surface. I've never personally used enamels, but it supposedly takes longer to dry than acrylics.

Acrylic is the "gentlest" of paint mediums, as it is the least corrosive against plastic. But that also means that it is the most easily scratched off. Again, a coat of primer will help with adhesion. NOTE: Tamiya acrylics are formulated for use with an airbrush. Applying these paints with paint brushes will generally give you a an uneven coat of paint, especially on large areas. If you must use a paint brush with Tamiya paints, limit it to detailing work or small areas.

BTW, most if not all spray paint is lacquer based, which is the most corrosive of the three paint types. Make sure to apply the paint in light coats instead of one heavy coat.

Clear coating a metallic surface is also recommended to protect it from constant handling. If you can get your hands on Future Floor Polish, it's probably the best candidate to protect your painted surface, as it leaves a tough, glossy surface. And since it's acrylic-based, it's also safe enough to use over all three paint types.

NOTE: Certain metallic paints cannot be coated with clear spray, such as Tamiya's TS-83 metallic silver. Doing so will turn that shiny silver surface into a dull gray.

TL;DR, whatever you choose to use, applying primer is always a good idea.

Tamiya acrylics are meant to be used with an airbrush.

Future Floor Polish makes the best glossy clear coat, and can even be applied with a paint brush.

Hope this helps.

SKYWARPED_128 wrote:The thing about metallic paints is that they tend to come off more easily than solid colors (if I'm not mistaken) due to the metal particles in the paint. Primer is recommended to give the paint some "tooth" to grab onto the surface.

As far as enamel vs acrylics, enamels are tougher than acrylics and "bite" into the plastic more, which in turn presents the issue of melting plastic. That said, a coat of primer should protect the plastic surface. I've never personally used enamels, but it supposedly takes longer to dry than acrylics.

Acrylic is the "gentlest" of paint mediums, as it is the least corrosive against plastic. But that also means that it is the most easily scratched off. Again, a coat of primer will help with adhesion. NOTE: Tamiya acrylics are formulated for use with an airbrush. Applying these paints with paint brushes will generally give you a an uneven coat of paint, especially on large areas. If you must use a paint brush with Tamiya paints, limit it to detailing work or small areas.

BTW, most if not all spray paint is lacquer based, which is the most corrosive of the three paint types. Make sure to apply the paint in light coats instead of one heavy coat.

Clear coating a metallic surface is also recommended to protect it from constant handling. If you can get your hands on Future Floor Polish, it's probably the best candidate to protect your painted surface, as it leaves a tough, glossy surface. And since it's acrylic-based, it's also safe enough to use over all three paint types.

NOTE: Certain metallic paints cannot be coated with clear spray, such as Tamiya's TS-83 metallic silver. Doing so will turn that shiny silver surface into a dull gray.

TL;DR, whatever you choose to use, applying primer is always a good idea.

Tamiya acrylics are meant to be used with an airbrush.

Future Floor Polish makes the best glossy clear coat, and can even be applied with a paint brush.

Hope this helps.

Thanks for all of your advice! I will definitely plan out what paints I intend to buy according to your tips. I really appreciate the help.

Rhinox23 wrote:

SKYWARPED_128 wrote:The thing about metallic paints is that they tend to come off more easily than solid colors (if I'm not mistaken) due to the metal particles in the paint. Primer is recommended to give the paint some "tooth" to grab onto the surface.

As far as enamel vs acrylics, enamels are tougher than acrylics and "bite" into the plastic more, which in turn presents the issue of melting plastic. That said, a coat of primer should protect the plastic surface. I've never personally used enamels, but it supposedly takes longer to dry than acrylics.

Acrylic is the "gentlest" of paint mediums, as it is the least corrosive against plastic. But that also means that it is the most easily scratched off. Again, a coat of primer will help with adhesion. NOTE: Tamiya acrylics are formulated for use with an airbrush. Applying these paints with paint brushes will generally give you a an uneven coat of paint, especially on large areas. If you must use a paint brush with Tamiya paints, limit it to detailing work or small areas.

BTW, most if not all spray paint is lacquer based, which is the most corrosive of the three paint types. Make sure to apply the paint in light coats instead of one heavy coat.

Clear coating a metallic surface is also recommended to protect it from constant handling. If you can get your hands on Future Floor Polish, it's probably the best candidate to protect your painted surface, as it leaves a tough, glossy surface. And since it's acrylic-based, it's also safe enough to use over all three paint types.

NOTE: Certain metallic paints cannot be coated with clear spray, such as Tamiya's TS-83 metallic silver. Doing so will turn that shiny silver surface into a dull gray.

TL;DR, whatever you choose to use, applying primer is always a good idea.

Tamiya acrylics are meant to be used with an airbrush.

Future Floor Polish makes the best glossy clear coat, and can even be applied with a paint brush.

Hope this helps.

Thanks for all of your advice! I will definitely plan out what paints I intend to buy according to your tips. I really appreciate the help.

Glad I could help!

Has anyone found a particular type of paint to use on the soft rubber that some transformers have? I tried testors acrylics so far and it does indeed dry awesome, but it flakes off. Any help or tips would be welcome

Mindewipe24 wrote:Has anyone found a particular type of paint to use on the soft rubber that some transformers have? I tried testors acrylics so far and it does indeed dry awesome, but it flakes off. Any help or tips would be welcome

Try priming the rubber parts first. I adds more "tooth" to the surface, allowing better adhesion.

The real problem here is, if or when you flex the rubber part in any way, the paint will probably crack and flake off.

I've never painted over soft rubber before, so I can only give you general suggestions.

Hope it helps, though.

To the big time customizers here, how would you reccommend adding scars to my figures? Do you just cut details with exacto knives, or would you use a saudering iron?

You can use an xacto knife, dremel with a small cutting bit, or a drill bit to get different damage effects. you can use a soldering iron, but I prefer the methods above. Experiment on a scrap piece of plastic and see what effects you can produce, and what you are looking for!
Also Google is your friend, there are tons of guides out there showing how to attain different effects.

Good luck!

Nemesis Maximo wrote:To the big time customizers here, how would you reccommend adding scars to my figures? Do you just cut details with exacto knives, or would you use a saudering iron?

It all depends on what kind of damage you're looking for. Bullet holes are usually done with drill bits (pin vise or electric drill/rotary tool), and "laser-melted" effects are done using a soldering iron. For sword slashes, naturally you'd use an X-acto knife.

BTW, lightly painting the damage with silver paint to simulate exposed metal brings the effects to life.

Hope this helps.

Thanks to both Mindwipe24 ans Skywarped_128. Those are some techniques that I've wanted to try, and I will!