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Re: Tips and tricks

Postby SKYWARPED_128 » Wed Feb 20, 2013 9:10 pm

Weapon: Null-Ray Rifle
Mindewipe24 wrote:Has anyone found a particular type of paint to use on the soft rubber that some transformers have? I tried testors acrylics so far and it does indeed dry awesome, but it flakes off. Any help or tips would be welcome :-?


Try priming the rubber parts first. I adds more "tooth" to the surface, allowing better adhesion.

The real problem here is, if or when you flex the rubber part in any way, the paint will probably crack and flake off.

I've never painted over soft rubber before, so I can only give you general suggestions.

Hope it helps, though.
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Re: Tips and tricks

Postby Nemesis Maximo » Mon Mar 18, 2013 7:03 pm

Motto: "Zounds! A sarsparilla swimming hole! Last one in's a freemason!"
Weapon: Gatling Cannon
To the big time customizers here, how would you reccommend adding scars to my figures? Do you just cut details with exacto knives, or would you use a saudering iron?
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Re: Tips and tricks

Postby Prime643 » Mon Mar 18, 2013 7:20 pm

Motto: ""Adapt and Overcome""
Weapon: Arm-Mounted Magnetic-Lock Destabilizer Cannon
You can use an xacto knife, dremel with a small cutting bit, or a drill bit to get different damage effects. you can use a soldering iron, but I prefer the methods above. Experiment on a scrap piece of plastic and see what effects you can produce, and what you are looking for!
Also Google is your friend, there are tons of guides out there showing how to attain different effects.

Good luck!
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Re: Tips and tricks

Postby SKYWARPED_128 » Mon Mar 18, 2013 7:32 pm

Weapon: Null-Ray Rifle
Nemesis Maximo wrote:To the big time customizers here, how would you reccommend adding scars to my figures? Do you just cut details with exacto knives, or would you use a saudering iron?


It all depends on what kind of damage you're looking for. Bullet holes are usually done with drill bits (pin vise or electric drill/rotary tool), and "laser-melted" effects are done using a soldering iron. For sword slashes, naturally you'd use an X-acto knife.

BTW, lightly painting the damage with silver paint to simulate exposed metal brings the effects to life.

Hope this helps.
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Re: Tips and tricks

Postby Nemesis Maximo » Mon Mar 18, 2013 7:39 pm

Motto: "Zounds! A sarsparilla swimming hole! Last one in's a freemason!"
Weapon: Gatling Cannon
Thanks to both Mindwipe24 ans Skywarped_128. Those are some techniques that I've wanted to try, and I will!
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Re: Tips and tricks

Postby devlingrey » Mon Apr 08, 2013 1:04 pm

Motto: ""In the immortal words of Socrates. . . I drank what?"
- Val Kilmer in Real Genius"
Weapon: Gattling Gun
Hello,

I am working on my first repaint. I am turning a Machine Wars Prowl into a Super Ninja Counter (red and white deco with the orange head).

I think I have the painting down, especially after reading through this thread (so thank you to all who have been posting tips and tricks, as a novice I really appreciate it). My question is about the head.

I want to reshape/craft another head that looks more like the spy changer head. Does anyone have any experience in crafting a head from a type of putty or clay? If so, what type would you use? If not, does anyone have any ideas of a bot's head that would match the Machine wars size that I could swap out?

Thanks in advance!

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Re: Tips and tricks

Postby SkyWarpsGhost » Sun Apr 14, 2013 4:32 am

Weapon: Dual Photon Launchers
I recently got 2012 Predaking and he has a problem.

The glue on the original factory sticker sheet has dried up, but the stickers still come off fine. Just don't stick very well.

I'm looking for something I could brush on or some other method to try to re use the original sticker sheet.
I've a re-production sticker sheet, but it's no where near as good as the original.
MOC Kreo/Legoformer Sentinel Prime
moc-kreo-legoformer-sentinel-prime-t98257.php
MOC Kreo/Legoformer Nemesis Prime v2
moc-kreo-legoformer-nemesis-prime-v2-t97374s100.php
MOC Kreo/Legoformer Dotm Megatron
moc-kreo-legoformer-megatron-t97289.php
MOC Kreo/Legoformer Prime and Magnus
transforming-legokreoformer-optimus-magnus-t94770s200.php
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Re: Tips and tricks

Postby SKYWARPED_128 » Sun Apr 14, 2013 5:03 am

Weapon: Null-Ray Rifle
SkyWarpsGhost wrote:I recently got 2012 Predaking and he has a problem.

The glue on the original factory sticker sheet has dried up, but the stickers still come off fine. Just don't stick very well.

I'm looking for something I could brush on or some other method to try to re use the original sticker sheet.
I've a re-production sticker sheet, but it's no where near as good as the original.


Try using some spray-on glue, and then applying a coat of Future floor polish to seal the sticker. FFP dries to a hard shell, protecting and sealing the sticker from future deformation. The only thing is that FFP is very glossy, and you might not like the finish on them.

DISCLAIMER: I haven't tried this personally, but it should work in theory. Using the spray-on glue is certainly harmless.
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Re: Tips and tricks

Postby Maximalnomore » Wed Oct 02, 2013 4:35 pm

Motto: ""Tell my tale to those who ask. Tell it truly. The ill deeds, along with the good. And let me be judged accordingly. The rest, is silence.""
I've got the Armada Unicron and would like to change the LED in his head so that he will have green eyes (and maybe switch it so that the eyes can be turned on and off, and when on, they won't blink). Does anyone know of any good tutorials, or maybe if you've done it yourself, could someone post a tutorial? I scoured the internet, but couldn't find anything.

I know there was a post about this back in 2011, but the person only showed the result and didn't say how they did it.

I just don't want to accidentally destroy the figure since I don't have much experience with LED's.

Thanks!
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Re: Tips and tricks

Postby Maximalnomore » Wed Oct 02, 2013 4:45 pm

Motto: ""Tell my tale to those who ask. Tell it truly. The ill deeds, along with the good. And let me be judged accordingly. The rest, is silence.""
Hey devlingrey, in response to your head sculpting question...

Does anyone have any experience in crafting a head from a type of putty or clay? If so, what type would you use?


I would use Aves Fixit Sculpt. It's similar to epoxy, but much easier to use. It molds just like clay, but is water soluble so it can easily be smoothed out and blended together. It does take 24 hours to fully cure, but once it does, it's really really durable and strong.

I've used the stuff for lots of Transformers work. It also works great for filling in the hollow arms and legs that Hasbro often uses to save on plastic. You can get the stuff here, http://www.avesstudio.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=75&category_id=7&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1&vmcchk=1&Itemid=1

As a side note, it helps to wet your sculpting tools when using this, since it's water soluble.
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Re: Tips and tricks

Postby EnJaySee » Mon Oct 14, 2013 9:21 am

The best way to remove one ended pins (especially pesky wheel ones)? Drill 'em out! I use a 1mm drill bit to drill in from the other side. Then pin-push then out and fill in the holes... No one will ever know ;-)
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Re: Tips and tricks

Postby Maximalnomore » Mon Oct 14, 2013 10:09 am

Motto: ""Tell my tale to those who ask. Tell it truly. The ill deeds, along with the good. And let me be judged accordingly. The rest, is silence.""
The best way to remove one ended pins (especially pesky wheel ones)? Drill 'em out! I use a 1mm drill bit to drill in from the other side. Then pin-push then out and fill in the holes... No one will ever know ;-)


Or, just heat the surface of the pin with a soldering iron. You don't need to melt the plastic, just heat it enough so that you can putt the pin free. It'll slide right out... No one will ever know :-)

Also, this usually doesn't damage the pin, so you can reuse it for something else later if you need it.
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Re: Tips and tricks

Postby EnJaySee » Mon Oct 14, 2013 1:52 pm

Maximalnomore wrote:
The best way to remove one ended pins (especially pesky wheel ones)? Drill 'em out! I use a 1mm drill bit to drill in from the other side. Then pin-push then out and fill in the holes... No one will ever know ;-)


Or, just heat the surface of the pin with a soldering iron. You don't need to melt the plastic, just heat it enough so that you can putt the pin free. It'll slide right out... No one will ever know :-)

Also, this usually doesn't damage the pin, so you can reuse it for something else later if you need it.


Personally I don't like doing that although I know it's a popular method. I've done it in the past with varying degrees of success. I feel like I'm not completely in control of what's happening to the plastic but with a drill I am. It boils down to which method is best for each person and for me, the drill is the way :)
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Re: Tips and tricks

Postby warzon3 » Sun Oct 27, 2013 3:01 pm

Hey everyone, I'm looking for tips on dyeing figures with RIT dye for the first time. I want to dye Igear Duneraker a darker shade of blue because I would rather avoid painting and dealing with paint chipping.

I saw that you need to find the old RIT dye pre 2011 because the new RIT doesn't dye plastic due to a newer formula. Has anyone found this is this the case?

Also, I don't want to warp the figure, any tips how to make sure that doesn't happen. I know you don't want the water boiling, but I know it doesn't take much to melt plastic.

on TFW there is a tutorial saying only dip 3-5 seconds at a time. How long does it take before getting results???


Also how permanent is the dye? It won't oxidize and fade or do something funky over time will it?
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Re: Tips and tricks

Postby massprime » Wed Oct 30, 2013 12:40 am

I need some ideas bad here. The arm of my MP 14 broke off at the bicep swivel. It was stuck and wouldn't budge after I transformed him to robot mode. Well you can guess what happened next. Yeah he;s a KO. But I only got him because at the time he was first released I got Sideswipe instead not knowing his price would jump like it has before I decided to get him. Either way he is still made of very good quality and this is the only issue I have with him. Can anyone think of anything?
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Re: Tips and tricks

Postby Nighttracker » Thu Apr 17, 2014 6:41 am

Weapon: Star Saber Sword
what all do you need to customize a Transformer?
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Re: Tips and tricks

Postby warzon3 » Sun Jul 20, 2014 12:21 pm

Does anyone know of anything stronger than Future Floor polish?

It seems to work if you don't plan to transform customs, but if things slightly rub, it seems not to hold up, especially over metallic enamel paints.

Is there any thing that you can use over both acrylics and enamels that is heavy duty strong?

What do the official factories use?
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Re: Tips and tricks

Postby venort » Sun Jul 27, 2014 9:49 am

Weapon: Electron Scimitar Sword
Does anyone have any general advice for working with the BW Terrorsaur mold?

I ended up accidentally ordering two of that AoE Bumblebee and Strafe two-pack, and I've decided to give repainting a shot with the second. Bee looks to be the easier of the two (given that I can leave anything molded in black unpainted), but Strafe looks to be a little more complex, at least torso-wise (although again, anything black is staying black, more or less).
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Re: Tips and tricks

Postby Wraith Verge » Wed Aug 20, 2014 4:29 pm

Motto: ""Who dares, wins""
Weapon: Gatling Cannon
warzon3 wrote:Does anyone know of anything stronger than Future Floor polish?

It seems to work if you don't plan to transform customs, but if things slightly rub, it seems not to hold up, especially over metallic enamel paints.

Is there any thing that you can use over both acrylics and enamels that is heavy duty strong?

What do the official factories use?


I use Krylon clear coat. It holds up pretty well to abrasion, but I tend to give a bout 2-3 coats before I call it good.
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Re: Tips and tricks

Postby Madeus Prime » Sat Sep 20, 2014 10:50 am

Motto: "Rule #34 of the Madeus Handbook: There is no Rule #34 in the comic."
Anybody have any advice on how to tighten up the AOE Two-Pack Classics Prime's shoulders?
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Re: Tips and tricks

Postby Nemesis Maximo » Fri Oct 24, 2014 7:56 pm

Motto: "Zounds! A sarsparilla swimming hole! Last one in's a freemason!"
Weapon: Gatling Cannon
Madeus Prime wrote:Anybody have any advice on how to tighten up the AOE Two-Pack Classics Prime's shoulders?

The easiest way would be to use a screwdriver and tighten that up. Now, I assume you've got enough gumption to try that first, so I will also cautiously reccommend the super glue trick. Beyond that, I'm not sure how much help I can be.
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Re: Tips and tricks

Postby Nemesis Maximo » Fri Oct 24, 2014 8:02 pm

Motto: "Zounds! A sarsparilla swimming hole! Last one in's a freemason!"
Weapon: Gatling Cannon
Okay, so does anyone have any ideas as to which figure I can use in a particular custom; I aim to make a CHUG style Slipstream using the recent Windblade, but I don't have a clear idea who's head I should use. I believe Cybertron Thunderblast would be a good candidate, but I don't own her, and I don't want to spring ~$70 just to have her head.
Check out my customs:
>Classics Prowl, Soundwave, and Starscream
>IDW Whirl
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Re: Tips and tricks

Postby Madeus Prime » Fri Oct 24, 2014 8:43 pm

Motto: "Rule #34 of the Madeus Handbook: There is no Rule #34 in the comic."
Nemesis Maximo wrote:Okay, so does anyone have any ideas as to which figure I can use in a particular custom; I aim to make a CHUG style Slipstream using the recent Windblade, but I don't have a clear idea who's head I should use. I believe Cybertron Thunderblast would be a good candidate, but I don't own her, and I don't want to spring ~$70 just to have her head.


I don't have either in-hand for size comparison, but Airachnid would be a good candidate. Cheap too. And perhaps try shapeways?
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Re: Tips and tricks

Postby Nemesis Maximo » Sat Oct 25, 2014 6:56 am

Motto: "Zounds! A sarsparilla swimming hole! Last one in's a freemason!"
Weapon: Gatling Cannon
Madeus Prime wrote:
Nemesis Maximo wrote:Okay, so does anyone have any ideas as to which figure I can use in a particular custom; I aim to make a CHUG style Slipstream using the recent Windblade, but I don't have a clear idea who's head I should use. I believe Cybertron Thunderblast would be a good candidate, but I don't own her, and I don't want to spring ~$70 just to have her head.


I don't have either in-hand for size comparison, but Airachnid would be a good candidate. Cheap too. And perhaps try shapeways?

I'd rather the head be more "classics" in nature than TFP, but Airachnid isn't totally off the table. As for shapeways, i do like some of the options I've seen, I was just hoping someone might name a figure I have in my pile of junk. :D

Kind of a shot in the dark, I know, but I figured why not?
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