The Energon Pub

News Credits: 2 · by **Skyfire77** » Thu Feb 18, 2010 10:23 pm

No problem. FYI, I found while restoring my G1 toys Testors Brush Cleaner will clean off any old sticker residue without damaging the plastic, even GPS sufferers like Bristleback and Slog.

News Credits: 11 · by **kirbenvost** » Fri Feb 19, 2010 12:36 am

Skyfire77 wrote:No problem. FYI, I found while restoring my G1 toys Testors Brush Cleaner will clean off any old sticker residue without damaging the plastic, even GPS sufferers like Bristleback and Slog.

I found lighter fluid worked pretty well on my G1 Jetfire, but I'll keep that suggestion in mind too, thanks!

by **Darkclyde** » Fri May 07, 2010 10:03 pm

Guys, could anyone help me for information how to disassemble Air Attack Optimus Primal?

I bought Optimus Primal on discount, the battery was dead so I want to change the battery

BUT the compartment on the back, one of the screw are badly worn out, that means using philip screwdriver is no go, because it can't grip the screw (loose)

So I force the compartment to open on one side and put the battery on

PRoblem is that the back area near the compartment with the worn out screw develops a crack

I want to open / dissasembled it so that I can apply power glue and offcourse to change the worn out screw as well

Can anybody help me to guide maybe with pictures?

Much appreciated and thank you for reading these

Darkclyde

News Credits: 1 · by **Sodan-1** » Thu Jun 24, 2010 6:59 am

Evening all. I'm looking for a bit of advice, please. I'm trying to disassemble the forearm cannons on my Cybertron Primus in an attempt to scavenge the black cannon barrels for the upcoming Takara version.

I've removed the two screws that hold together the two grey side pieces, but I've discovered that they are also glued together where they meet the blue panel on top of the cannon. Can anyone please advise me as to how I can detach these pieces without stressing and possibly breaking them through brute force? Thank you for your time.

News Credits: 1 · by **Sodan-1** » Fri Jul 09, 2010 4:26 pm

Never mind. Think I figured something out. I ran a blunt knife along the join, just enough to create a gap. I then ran it under the tap and quickly put it in the freezer. Any water that I got in the gap expanded when it froze and seperated the two pieces. It seems to have worked. If anyone has any other ideas, please let me know.

by **Nemesis251** » Sun Dec 19, 2010 5:00 pm

Any ideas on how to tighten up the joints on my Alternators Nemesis Prime?

News Credits: 13 · by **grimdragon2001** » Sat Dec 25, 2010 2:53 pm

my SOC Rodimus had some of the gold from its spoiler come off while putting the Protector trailer on (just the yellow coat, the chrome stayed on). luckily some Tamiya Translucent Yellow paint made the problem go from "eyesore" to "barely noticable".

Incidently, would anyone happen to know of a paint that would match the paint on SOC Rodimus' headlights? those are flaking badly.

by **feeiq90** » Mon Dec 27, 2010 4:21 am

sorry to interupt,but what does SOC stands for???dumb question,sorry :oops:

News Credits: 1452 · by **Blurrz** » Mon Dec 27, 2010 4:54 am

feeiq90 wrote:sorry to interupt,but what does SOC stands for???dumb question,sorry

Sons of Cybertron;

http://www.seibertron.com/transformers/ ... tron/2154/

by **victoryconvoy** » Thu Jan 13, 2011 12:12 pm

I just got a g1 road buster from ebay and the arm is broken.When i opeaned the arm a long brown peg where his arm was attached with a skrew was broken does any one know what i can do or am i in trouble

News Credits: 2 · by **Skyfire77** » Sun Jan 16, 2011 12:23 pm

victoryconvoy wrote:I just got a g1 road buster from ebay and the arm is broken.When i opeaned the arm a long brown peg where his arm was attached with a skrew was broken does any one know what i can do or am i in trouble

Yeah, I think 'Buster has a GPS-like problem, 'cause I had to buy three junkers to fix mine. That brown plastic is really fragile.

I might still have one or two around, which arm is broken?

by **victoryconvoy** » Mon Feb 14, 2011 6:33 pm

i heard that there was some liquid that bonds plastic so it is one piece i'm not talking about glue would any one know what im talking about

News Credits: 2 · by **Skyfire77** » Mon Feb 14, 2011 9:43 pm

victoryconvoy wrote:i heard that there was some liquid that bonds plastic so it is one piece i'm not talking about glue would any one know what im talking about

That's basically what model cement does.

News Credits: 3600 · by **Seibertron** » Wed Feb 16, 2011 6:58 pm

What's the best way to knock a pin out of a figure?

I'm in the process of repairing a Pretender Crossblades that I saved from yellow of doom with a hydrogen peroxide / sun bath. The plastic is almost entirely restored but the paint on his face is a pinkish color instead of the flesh tone color that it should be.

I have an extra Crossblades shell I bought on ebay last week for $12 that has a perfect head. I want to knock the pin out of its neck in order to swap heads. I used to know how to do this ... I used to have a small rubber mallet/hammer put I can't remember what I used to hammer into the pin to knock it out. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

News Credits: 2 · by **Skyfire77** » Wed Feb 16, 2011 10:14 pm

I usually use a nail. I keep meaning to pick up an awl at some point too; that should work pretty well.

News Credits: 3600 · by **Seibertron** » Tue Feb 22, 2011 9:25 pm

Skyfire77 wrote:I usually use a nail. I keep meaning to pick up an awl at some point too; that should work pretty well.

Hm ... that didn't work too well for me. I couldn't get either side of the pin to get knocked out. I was getting a little impatient, slammed the hammer too hard, and it whacked the nail right through the face of the second backup pretender shell. Ugh.

Anyone have any suggestions for how to knock out the pin in Crossblades' neck?

News Credits: 3600 · by **Seibertron** » Tue Feb 22, 2011 9:27 pm

So thanks to "It is Him" I learned today that you can use a hair dryer to magically repair stress marks in the figures. I used it already on about a half dozen stress marks with great success. The Masterpiece rear wing tips are all "fixed" as well as the stress marks near Classics Rodimus' shoulder joints. Amazing stuff! Love learning new ways to fix my figures that have minor issues.

new-toy-galleries-g1-pretenders-p1185803.php#p1185803

by **SpacerAM2** » Tue Feb 22, 2011 10:03 pm

Generations Kup's head can't be moved 360 degrees. If so the head comes off the neck ball joint. Then it bobbles and stays loose by moving around and not staying in place. Had to use a small screwdriver by disassembling the head. Then sliding into place the back portion inside below of Kup's rear helmet to the ball neck joint from behind. Where it goes. Make sure it is stable and it doesn't move. Then put the front part of his head ,and screw it back in from behind. Do this the way Kup's head is normally facing in order to get the balljoint back into place. It's the only way that it can be done.

by **OptiMagnus** » Tue Feb 22, 2011 10:15 pm

Well, I learned recently that Recon Ironhide's waist/pelvis hinge pin pops out easily :BANG_HEAD:

. I'm glad I got him for ten dollars with all the QC issues mine has. But seriously, the swivel joint that his waist is on has split apart down the middle somewhat, allowing the pin that holds the lower half of him in place to pop out on one side, leaving his legs hanging off of the body. I've already had to use model cement on his left side mirror and his hood vent, but I don't know how to keep that piece together without ruining the figure.

By the way, this may be extremely unfixable, but my Omega Sentinel's headmaster robot's right leg broke completely off. It's driving me nuts.
Can anyone help me?

News Credits: 3600 · by **Seibertron** » Wed Feb 23, 2011 12:35 am

Fixed the stress mark's on Hot Rod's hood / chest after all these years thanks to It Is Him's suggestion to use a hair dryer on the stress marks. Works like a charm! Hot Rod's fixed after all of these years and the solution was a simple hair dryer. Imagine that!

News Credits: 60 · by **fenrir72** » Wed Feb 23, 2011 5:34 am

@ seibertron.

I have the stretch mark on Shockwave's battery cover. You mean to say i just point the dryer and it's now fixed? How far away was the dryer when you tries it?

News Credits: 3600 · by **Seibertron** » Wed Feb 23, 2011 5:47 am

fenrir72 wrote:@ seibertron.

I have the stretch mark on Shockwave's battery cover. You mean to say i just point the dryer and it's now fixed? How far away was the dryer when you tries it?

It won't fix a fracture, but it seems to fix the stressed plastic's color. I had it just a few inches away. I tried it on something simple that I didn't care about first just to get a feel for it. When it goes away, it happens pretty quickly. Takes a minute or two for it to start to work. Nothing happens, nothing happens, and then BAM! Stress mark gone!

by **WeatherManNX01** » Wed Feb 23, 2011 3:34 pm

Seibertron wrote:Fixed the stress mark's on Hot Rod's hood / chest after all these years thanks to It Is Him's suggestion to use a hair dryer on the stress marks. Works like a charm! Hot Rod's fixed after all of these years and the solution was a simple hair dryer. Imagine that!

Wow, that is brilliant! Thanks for posting the before-and-after, as I was curious as to how well it actually did. Makes it practically like new!

News Credits: 60 · by **fenrir72** » Thu Feb 24, 2011 4:11 am

I'll try doing it then. Thanks!

edit: Tried it last night (022711). But sadly no effect. The Shockwave (the clip part that locks to the groove in the back) plastic must be made from a harder formula.I tried it for like 20 minutes........ :sad: