The Energon Pub

Grabbed a loose G2 Swindle at BotCon that seems like one side was dropped in some soda and wasn't thoroughly washed off, and now the wheels are stuck. Any advice on cleaning out the axles?

Hi!

I have a couple of G1 Blades figures, and I'm trying to do a rotor blade swap. Does anyone have any advice for removing the pin that holds the rotors in?

Sorry if this isn't the right spot for this post.

Thanks!

I recently got Prime First Edition Cliffjumper, and one of the pins in his legs (the one that the window panel folds in on right at his knee) is not quite the right shape, so the plastic around it making up the joint is cracked.

How do I safely fix the joint so that the pin will still rotate?

I am having the exact same problem with my RTS Wreck-Gar, on one of his handlebars.

-Hiboman

I have the 20th DVD Prime also BUT my Prime fall a good 3-4 feet of a top self and the a Front headlight piece broke off do you know where to find a good head light piece can be found ?

Halp I was transforming my First Edition Prime Bumblebee and the groove where the right bumper plugs into in robot mode snapped off. I tried to super glue it back on but the broken piece is so thin that if I apply minimal pressure it just falls off again.

Any advice?

Matt Convoy wrote:Grabbed a loose G2 Swindle at BotCon that seems like one side was dropped in some soda and wasn't thoroughly washed off, and now the wheels are stuck. Any advice on cleaning out the axles?

Try dipping a q-tip in some warm water with a little bit of soap. It may take a while, but that ought to do the trick. Just wipe off the excess and let it air dry.

Hiboman wrote:I recently got Prime First Edition Cliffjumper, and one of the pins in his legs (the one that the window panel folds in on right at his knee) is not quite the right shape, so the plastic around it making up the joint is cracked.

How do I safely fix the joint so that the pin will still rotate?

I am having the exact same problem with my RTS Wreck-Gar, on one of his handlebars.

-Hiboman

I'm not sure what to do about the FE CJ joint. I know that I wasn't patient enough with my RTS Wreck-Gar and I eventually broke one of the handle bars. Since then I have been doing my best to handle my figures with more care. Maybe some slight glue could help?

My first post in this thread, so here goes...

I am sure many of you own a KO of the Fansproject City Commander/Shadow Commander which has the annoying loose shoulders and/or arms!

Can anyone be kind enough to direct me to a part of this thread or alt website where I can find various ways of modding/fixing the KO armour to prevent the parts from falling off?

I own both the original and KO version of the Classics Optimus Prime/Nemesis/Magnus figures, so alternate ways to fix the KO problems would be appreciated.

Are some of the KO armours worse than others despite coming from the same mold or are they all the same?

Hope the many fans of these versions will be able to guide me in the right direction with fixing these (what would be) great pieces of 3rd party (KO) add ons!

Thanks folk!

robotmel wrote::D
My first post in this thread, so here goes...

I am sure many of you own a KO of the Fansproject City Commander/Shadow Commander which has the annoying loose shoulders and/or arms!

Can anyone be kind enough to direct me to a part of this thread or alt website where I can find various ways of modding/fixing the KO armour to prevent the parts from falling off?

I own both the original and KO version of the Classics Optimus Prime/Nemesis/Magnus figures, so alternate ways to fix the KO problems would be appreciated.

Are some of the KO armours worse than others despite coming from the same mold or are they all the same?

Hope the many fans of these versions will be able to guide me in the right direction with fixing these (what would be) great pieces of 3rd party (KO) add ons!

Thanks folk!

I just glued a small amount of epoxy resin into the insides of the shoulder armour, at the front, and then to the inside of the forearms, at the top. I put on some glue, waited for 30 minutes and then test-fitted, and built up with more glue as necessary. The good thing with epoxy resin is it remains slightly malleable for a day or so, so you can squeeze it into the desired shape. Once you are happy, remove the armour and let it set over a few days.

The other good thing is that the epoxy resin should come off in one piece if you decide to remove it. I use Araldite.

Hello, I am new to this forum, and have been looking for advice on how to fix my G1 Bluestreak. He has loose legs that, when he is in robot mode, slide down and make him short. Looks kind of silly. Any way to fix this? The feet are fine, and his legs stay upright. Just slides down as if you were converting him back to car mode. Thanks in advance.

Hello. ^_^

I've never actually fixed a loose-leggy before, but I'd guess the best way to do it would be to:

Disassemble the legs. Take the two sliding parts and inspect them.
You'll probably find that there's a clip or pressure-point that has worn away over time.
You can either rebuild it using a small piece of plastic, or just a blob of super-glue or epoxy, or perhaps coat the inside of the legs with layers of superglue to make them really tight.

Sometimes, when I have loose parts, I stick small pieces of paper or plastic film on the inside of the pieces. This often makes them so tight that the pressure alone holds two sliding parts in place.

Just be brave and take the toy apart. ^_^ You'll figure it out.

Just be brave and take the toy apart. ^_^ You'll figure it out.

Good advice. Thanks so much!

Okay I really need help! I recently bought a used Binaltech Shockwave/Laserwave and I love it. So after I recieved it what looked like a tiny piece of styro stuck on the bonnet was a tiny nick so I scratched it making it bigger. Now being a die-cast surface and not the plastic Alternators line is there paint for a die-cast surface or not necessary? Also the shade, does anyone know if that type of shade (purple/lavender etc.) and if available? Thanks for the help all.

I recently purchased a BTS-04 Sonicron figure that has a problem. The tape door will not open in alt mode. It works perfectly in robot mode, with or without cassettes in Sonicron's chest, but won't do a thing in alt mode. Any help would be appreciated. It also seems that just making the tab that presses the eject button longer won't do it, as the hand would not properly fit in robot mode if this was done.

I just purchased a 2nd TFTM Skyblast(Energon Skyblast mold), and noticed both of them have reversed thighs. How do I separate the lower legs from the thighs so I can swap and fix them?

I'm restoring the cab to an old G1 Optimus Prime I've got, and I was wondering if anyone could tell me where to buy some cheap spare parts I need. I need a Diaclone cockpit, so that his head doesn't flop around so much. I also need the ORIGINAL silver smokestacks. Ebay only has the 25th Anniversary ones, and all I found on a 'spare parts' website was the white Powermaster ones. I also need a full grill with bumper. All I have is the grill. Any help in directing me to someone or a website would be appreciated.

I recently got the AM-21 Optimus Prime but left shoulder joint is loose and can't even hold more than one micron without sliding down. If it was a ball and socket joint it would be an easy fix but I can't see how to get into the joint.

Any help you guys can give would be appreciated!

Acrylic paint is really good, i do not know wether or not the brand is sold at every wal mart/office depot worldwide, but here in Mexico, there is a brand, Dietrix, which is very strong, it only falls off if you scratch it reeeeeaaallyyy hard, not just by touch, has a mate finish, if you mix brown/red/black, and make it thinned with water, can be used to simulate rust.

Canned Pasta wrote:This thread was extremely helpful before, so I figured I would revive it.

Anyway, to start it back up, I have a question.

I recently bought the new 20th DVD Prime, and I want to paint the gun black instead of having it blue, yellow, and gray.

What would be the best type of paint to use for this>

This is probably been discussed before, but my the white paint on Classics Prowl doors is becoming discolored is there away to clean that with out messing up the pain job? It doesn't seem soap and water really does the job.

Also looks like the Autobot symbol on his chest is is fading away over time and now looks orange. Were there some paint flaws when this guys was produced?

I have a Classics Starscream that has a cracked part where the rivet fits into his right tail fin...Any easy fixes? It seems super tight when i try to transform him. Like its about the break.

Just a general question here. I have an Acidstorm who's arm broke off. The hinge joint on the shoulder broke in a way that the peg on front panel with the yellow stripe on it snapped off of it's base. I put some crazy glue on it to give it a fix and let it dry for a couple of days. Just tried to reassemble it now but I get scared that it'll break again when I try to move the shoulder.

My question is: does anyone know of a good bonding agent I could use that wouldn't be too prone to breaking again?

Fires_Of_Inferno wrote:Just a general question here. I have an Acidstorm who's arm broke off. The hinge joint on the shoulder broke in a way that the peg on front panel with the yellow stripe on it snapped off of it's base. I put some crazy glue on it to give it a fix and let it dry for a couple of days. Just tried to reassemble it now but I get scared that it'll break again when I try to move the shoulder.

My question is: does anyone know of a good bonding agent I could use that wouldn't be too prone to breaking again?

While I can't make any guarantees it'll work, you might want to try Tamiya's Liquid Cement and Semi-liquid Cement, or Mr. Hobby's Cement. These basically work by melting the plastic on the two parts you want to stick together and bonding them together.

Should work better than the usual CA-type glue.

Hope this helps.

One day, I stuck a cyberkey in my Cybertron Shortround, and now I can't get the dang thing out! I've taken him to pieces as much as I can, but I haven't been able to figure out how to do it.

warzon3 wrote:This is probably been discussed before, but my the white paint on Classics Prowl doors is becoming discolored is there away to clean that with out messing up the pain job? It doesn't seem soap and water really does the job.

Also looks like the Autobot symbol on his chest is is fading away over time and now looks orange. Were there some paint flaws when this guys was produced?

This guy had serious issues with the paint apps on his doors and sometimes his roof. I tried soapy water myself, and ended up with wet paint on my hands. So to fix the problem, I scraped as much of the paint as I could off of his roof and doors, and replaced it with Testors brand acrylic gloss white and black. Now that it's dry, it hasn't given me any of the trouble it used to.

I have an MP-04 Optimus Prime with a broken trailer hitch piece. I also have a regular Hasbro Masterpiece Prime with an intact trailer hitch piece, but the rest of the toy is in rough shape (missing head and several pistons, beat-up paint).

I was thinking of trying to replace the broken hitch on MP-04 with the one from the Hasbro edition, but could not figure out how to get the pin holding it in out--needlenose pliers and such have not worked, and I don't want to risk breaking it by using brute force. I've attached pics of the pin on the Hasbro version (a little fuzzy, sorry).

Anyone have any ideas on how to remove it (and of course, install into the other toy) without damaging the leg where it's seated, or trailer hitch?