The Energon Pub

acrylics won't chip or peel, unless you're using the wrong type, whihc i hope you weren't

car paint needs to bake in order to dry, VERY hot, in fact - a TF would melt at that temp and for that amount of time. how in the world did you get a 2 part car paint dry?

frenzy_rumble wrote:acrylics won't chip or peel, unless you're using the wrong type, whihc i hope you weren't

car paint needs to bake in order to dry, VERY hot, in fact - a TF would melt at that temp and for that amount of time. how in the world did you get a 2 part car paint dry?

It can also dry up without baking. But with inferior strength. Car paints need to withstand the outdoor elements everyday.

Toys stay indoor. So baking will not be necessary.

i like i like

frenzy_rumble wrote:acrylics won't chip or peel, unless you're using the wrong type, whihc i hope you weren't

car paint needs to bake in order to dry, VERY hot, in fact - a TF would melt at that temp and for that amount of time. how in the world did you get a 2 part car paint dry?

Car paint doesnt need to bake to dry. You only bake it if you are in a hurry. Technically all you need to do for car paitn to dry is let it set over night or for an extra day to make sure its solid. Thats why we use a chemical called "hardener".

I was using Tamiya acrylic paints, and they chipped like mo-fo's.

Auto Bot wrote:

Sonray wrote:

Auto Bot wrote:The paint do look a bit thick on the head, body and arms. Maybe you can try thin coats on your next try. Since you're stripping down the paint anyway.

Something like the paint on the legs; looks thin enough.

The cannon paint is the best one. It looks realistic. I'm truly impressed with this part.

I put the paint on as thin as possible, the tamiya flat red didnt cover very well over the black plastic. So i had to put on four coats just to cover the black plastic.

I wont have this problem with the air-brushed applied car paint though.

So your red paints are all hand brushed?

All the body parts like the arms and legs and head and all that are painted with a brush (with acrylics, basically all the sections that chipped) whereas the alt mode car parts was painted with an airbrush with car paints (the pieces that DIDNT chip.)

Sonray wrote:

Auto Bot wrote:

Sonray wrote:

Auto Bot wrote:The paint do look a bit thick on the head, body and arms. Maybe you can try thin coats on your next try. Since you're stripping down the paint anyway.

Something like the paint on the legs; looks thin enough.

The cannon paint is the best one. It looks realistic. I'm truly impressed with this part.

I put the paint on as thin as possible, the tamiya flat red didnt cover very well over the black plastic. So i had to put on four coats just to cover the black plastic.

I wont have this problem with the air-brushed applied car paint though.

So your red paints are all hand brushed?

All the body parts like the arms and legs and head and all that are painted with a brush (with acrylics, basically all the sections that chipped) whereas the alt mode car parts was painted with an airbrush with car paints (the pieces that DIDNT chip.)

Seems like spray paint adhesion is more superior to hand brush paint.

Auto Bot wrote:

Sonray wrote:

Auto Bot wrote:

Sonray wrote:

Auto Bot wrote:The paint do look a bit thick on the head, body and arms. Maybe you can try thin coats on your next try. Since you're stripping down the paint anyway.

Something like the paint on the legs; looks thin enough.

The cannon paint is the best one. It looks realistic. I'm truly impressed with this part.

I put the paint on as thin as possible, the tamiya flat red didnt cover very well over the black plastic. So i had to put on four coats just to cover the black plastic.

I wont have this problem with the air-brushed applied car paint though.

So your red paints are all hand brushed?

All the body parts like the arms and legs and head and all that are painted with a brush (with acrylics, basically all the sections that chipped) whereas the alt mode car parts was painted with an airbrush with car paints (the pieces that DIDNT chip.)

Seems like spray paint adhesion is more superior to hand brush paint.

Spray adhesion, either spray paint or airbrushing, does usually provide a stronger bond because the paint goes on finer and in thinner coats. Thin coats provide better adhesion.

Tramp wrote:

Auto Bot wrote:

Sonray wrote:

Auto Bot wrote:

Sonray wrote:

Auto Bot wrote:The paint do look a bit thick on the head, body and arms. Maybe you can try thin coats on your next try. Since you're stripping down the paint anyway.

Something like the paint on the legs; looks thin enough.

The cannon paint is the best one. It looks realistic. I'm truly impressed with this part.

I put the paint on as thin as possible, the tamiya flat red didnt cover very well over the black plastic. So i had to put on four coats just to cover the black plastic.

I wont have this problem with the air-brushed applied car paint though.

So your red paints are all hand brushed?

All the body parts like the arms and legs and head and all that are painted with a brush (with acrylics, basically all the sections that chipped) whereas the alt mode car parts was painted with an airbrush with car paints (the pieces that DIDNT chip.)

Seems like spray paint adhesion is more superior to hand brush paint.

Spray adhesion, either spray paint or airbrushing, does usually provide a stronger bond because the paint goes on finer and in thinner coats. Thin coats provide better adhesion.

It also helps to rub down the area you want to paint first with some light sand paper, just to slightly roughen up the plastic and give the paint something to grip on to. Thats why they rub down cars with strong sand paper, to smooth out body filler and repairs, and get the surface prepped for paint so it sticks better.

Scary to rub down plastics with sandpaper. I could inadvertently alter the shape or slope.

Auto Bot wrote:Scary to rub down plastics with sandpaper. I could inadvertently alter the shape or slope.

Then be VERY careful, and only use very fine grit sand paper, the stuff they use that is called "wet and dry" is the best. All you have to do is nib the shine off the original plastic just to give the paint something to adhere to, to alter shape you need ALOT of force and courser sand paper.

i too use tamia and its the best paint ive used so far!

tyler1451 wrote:i too use tamia and its the best paint ive used so far!

Didnt work for me.

nice custom!

Paint looks kinda thick on some parts.

BLACKOUT2007 wrote:Paint looks kinda thick on some parts.

Thats called "gloss" which makes thing shiny and look like metal. The paint was put on as thin as possible tp prevent chipping, which didnt work anyway.

Sonray wrote:

BLACKOUT2007 wrote:Paint looks kinda thick on some parts.

Thats called "gloss" which makes thing shiny and look like metal. The paint was put on as thin as possible tp prevent chipping, which didnt work anyway.

Is it possible to achieve a flat finish using spray?

Auto Bot wrote:

Sonray wrote:

BLACKOUT2007 wrote:Paint looks kinda thick on some parts.

Thats called "gloss" which makes thing shiny and look like metal. The paint was put on as thin as possible tp prevent chipping, which didnt work anyway.

Is it possible to achieve a flat finish using spray?

Yes, it all depends on how you apply it. Putting thick coats of spray paint on will almost always give you a shiny finish, whereas laying it on thin and from a further distance away will give a dull, flat finish.

It also depends on which type of spray paint you use obviously but usually it all comes down to how you apply it.

If you want a flat finish, hold the spray can about 10 inches away from the area you want to paint, and "dust" it on. This means you apply the paint very lightly and only in very thin coats until the area is covered which should result in the flat finish you want.

Dont do it all at once either, let the paint dry a little in between coats (not fully dry, but just enough so the paint feels sticky, this will allow the next coat of paint to go on even better and easier as it will have more to adhere to)

I should try that technique soon. Thanks for the tip!

alt mode pics?

tyler1451 wrote:alt mode pics?

I stated earlier that i have taken the toy apart to strip the paint off as the tamiya acrylic paint all chipped off (cos acrylics suck) so i am going to re-do the whole thing with car paints when i get the time, which i dont have right now.

We'll wait.
But you better do it.

Sherade wrote:We'll wait.
But you better do it.

I will otherwise ive wasted a perfectly good voyager ironhide, a toy i personally want for myself yet alone make one to repaint and sell on!

Because of a real life car project i have going on, as well as a commissioned re-paint, progress on this will be slow. By that time someone else would have done one by copying mine anyway so you wont care by then.

Sonray wrote:

Sherade wrote:We'll wait.
But you better do it.

I will otherwise ive wasted a perfectly good voyager ironhide, a toy i personally want for myself yet alone make one to repaint and sell on!

Because of a real life car project i have going on, as well as a commissioned re-paint, progress on this will be slow. By that time someone else would have done one by copying mine anyway so you wont care by then.

We care.

Auto Bot wrote:

Sonray wrote:

Sherade wrote:We'll wait.
But you better do it.

I will otherwise ive wasted a perfectly good voyager ironhide, a toy i personally want for myself yet alone make one to repaint and sell on!

Because of a real life car project i have going on, as well as a commissioned re-paint, progress on this will be slow. By that time someone else would have done one by copying mine anyway so you wont care by then.

We care.

You wait till you see this car im working on. Ive turned him into an autobot with the same paint scheme as a certain motormouth G1 autobot.

Either Blurr or me.