ScottyP wrote:I'm going to bank on this being a design issue and not an assembly error. Look at the initial CAD renders we saw for the toy. The panels are visible in three places, and are only "lined up" in one of them. All the official product shots using samples from Hasbro and Takara are like this.
For whatever reason, the offset paneling is how this got designed. Whether that was a mistake on someone's part during the process can be debated (meant to correct and forgot, etc), but I'm very suspect of it being an assembly problem.
Two possible ways:Black Hat wrote:Christ, how do you misassemble a goddamn 3D render? Especially of such a simple design?
Burn wrote:Agamemnon wrote:Let's get back to talking about Burn's mammoth snout flopping...
Well I am Australian. It's kinda what we're known for.
Cobotron wrote:Two ways:Black Hat wrote:Christ, how do you misassemble a goddamn 3D render? Especially of such a simple design?
1. Intern
2. One too many cocktails at lunch.
Cobotron wrote:Two possible ways:Black Hat wrote:Christ, how do you misassemble a goddamn 3D render? Especially of such a simple design?
1. Intern
2. One too many cocktails at lunch.
Nightreaper78 wrote:Hi,
Okay, first off this is my first post so Hello to everyone.
Second, that is one dangerous method to get the desired result. I used two thin pointed nail files to release the latches on either side of the fender well then pried the panel out while applying heat with a soldering pen to the rivet. Done in reverse to reassemble. Finished the mod in about two minutes. Hope this helps.
Only one tiny divet where the point of the pen slipped off the rivet. Totally hidden on both modes. Also just me not having the pen gripped firmly enough lol.
Thanks for pointing this flaw out.
TF-fan kev777 wrote: This is specifically why I bought a new set of springs for Trypticon, instead of cutting the originals.
triKlops wrote:TF-fan kev777 wrote: This is specifically why I bought a new set of springs for Trypticon, instead of cutting the originals.
As i, surprisingly, have not gotten Trypty yet, is there any quick info you can give to the specs of your new replacement springs?
TF-fan kev777 wrote:triKlops wrote:TF-fan kev777 wrote: This is specifically why I bought a new set of springs for Trypticon, instead of cutting the originals.
As i, surprisingly, have not gotten Trypty yet, is there any quick info you can give to the specs of your new replacement springs?
Any chance you live in the midwest? I got mine at Menards and can tell you the exact part/item number when I get home. I actually found 1 that I was able to cut in half and use for both hips, so I have the other one still in package somewhere in my basement. I'll check when I get home.
Cobotron wrote:Two possible ways:Black Hat wrote:Christ, how do you misassemble a goddamn 3D render? Especially of such a simple design?
1. Intern
2. One too many cocktails at lunch.
Cobotron wrote:Hey! You seemed to have attracted a wild Megatronus. They're hard to find, but boy are they fun when you catch one!
megatronus wrote:Cobotron wrote:Two possible ways:Black Hat wrote:Christ, how do you misassemble a goddamn 3D render? Especially of such a simple design?
1. Intern
2. One too many cocktails at lunch.
Or one too few cocktails at lunch?
Nightreaper78 wrote:Ok, I am sorry but I don't have a camera to do flicks or pics but the original post by william-james88 has pics that will show you the location of one latch and the slots into which they go. Picture 3 the person doing the saw blade mod is pointing to the first latch with some kind of metal hook. The second latch is on the opposite side of a hinge. Look in picture 4 for two holes where the top left and right corners of the problem panels are. Pop the two latches. Apply outward pressure to the panel (pry gently) then heat the rivet it should literally just come right loose along with the wheel. once you have both panels and wheels loose simply switch the panels then push them together and heat the rivet. The panel will pop neatly back into place.
On the subject of Tryp, there is also an easier fix for that than cutting springs. The two cogs inside his hip are miss molded in the center on problem hips. They made the cross shaped hole crooked. If you take (again) a nail file and file the hole out to where it slides up and down the post easier then lube the teeth of the two ratchet cogs with white lithium grease the hip should never seize up again. Mine hasn't.
Rodimus Knight wrote:As far as the trypticon spring issue goes, I saw one article that suggested basically squeezing the springs for about 5 - 10 minutes (like close open your hand), to loosen them. I did that with mine and haven't had any problems with the transformation since then.
Randomhero wrote:DecepticonFinishline wrote:Randomhero wrote:DecepticonFinishline wrote:thedistinctroom wrote:Dude, everything is misassembled these days. MPM Prime, my SDCC Metroplex, Trypticon, MP Ramjet, man... tons of stuff. It's like a new trademark.
Don't forget Pyra Magna, G2 Onslaught and TFCC Bludgeon. I know that last one isn't official. But still. This one greatly affected Transformation.
Still looking for a skilled modder to fix those pins, by the way.
Bludgeon is an official figure. Just because TFCC is no more doesn’t take away their figures’ status as official products. If it’s has Hasbro and or Takaras name on them they are official. And while the knees have a flaw they still fully functional and it doesn’t technically hinder the toy. I didn’t even know about that hinge on hotspot until it was addressed 11 months after owning him.
What problem with the Hot Spot hinge? Mine was fine. Same with Onslaught.
The hinge on the three I mentioned are assembled backwards. Which DOES hinder the toys' bot mode. You can't lock the knee in correctly because of this misassembly. It's a HUGE bummer.
Like I said, I didn't even know I could lock the knees for 11 months on hotspot and he stood and posed just fine. Wasn't till it was discovered on pyra Magnus that I even knew you could on the hotspot and onslaught so it wasn't even something gave a frown over
Nightreaper78 wrote:On the subject of Tryp, there is also an easier fix for that than cutting springs. The two cogs inside his hip are miss molded in the center on problem hips. They made the cross shaped hole crooked. If you take (again) a nail file and file the hole out to where it slides up and down the post easier then lube the teeth of the two ratchet cogs with white lithium grease the hip should never seize up again. Mine hasn't.
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