Jesterhead wrote:All Bandai kits are pretty easy. The peices need minimal prep work before assembling. Just clip them outta the runners and clean them up. In my experiences with Bandai kits, any peice which doesn't fit "quite right" is an easy fix. Compare this to a resin kit of the HMCS Haida I've been building since the fall, which requires removing the huge amount of flashing/pouring plug, sanding, hole filling, and priming, Bandai kits are a breeze to assemble. More impressive MG kits just take more time, not more skill. Follow the instructions and any Bandai kit will go together smoothly.
True, it doesn't take great skill to assemble or build Bandai's snap assembly model kits but that's by design. Unlike resin model kits, gunpla and other snap assembly model kits are approachable by a wide variety of people with varying levels of model kit skill and experience, whether it's a straight build for the novice or an extensive custom job by a skilled modeler.
Model kits, regardless of type, are canvases for modelers to elevate to the next level using creativity and ingenuity. There's nothing stopping a modeler from going through the process priming, painting, and extensively customizing a gunpla kit. Many skilled modelers scratch build custom joints and sculpt new parts for gunpla just as they would for typical resin model kits.
One good thing about Bandai's kits, though, is that the manufacturing process is superior to most other model kit companies that I'm aware of, which means there's no need to clean excessive flashing, no need to fill in defects like air bubbles in parts, or basically do extra work to correct inferior manufacturing.
Also, the higher quality model kit products like Gundam High Grade, Master Grade, and Perfect Grade kits, offer design and engineering that allow great posing functionality. They're like a hybrid of action figures and model kits.
OptimusN1701 wrote:And does anyone know a good place to get Gundam markers online? I want to try to cover up where the exacto knife cut the pieces off of the runners, and it's fairly noticeable on with the dark green pieces.
You may find it difficult to match Gundam marker paint colours to the colours of the plastic of your models at times. It may take more work but painting the model will offer a uniform appearance.
As an alternative, you could consider removing the model kit pieces from the runner by using some sort of cutter/clipper/nipper and rather than cutting flush to the model kit piece, cut the plastic sprue close to the model kit piece. You'll have a nub remaining, which you can file and sand down to remove. It's more time consuming but you should be able to avoid the white stress mark you've been seeing on your model kits so far. You will have scuff marks from the sanding and filing but you can remedy that by using a clear topcoat, which comes in flat/matte or gloss finishes. In my experience, flat topcoat works best and has removed the appearance of severe scuffing from sanding.
I don't do this anymore as I prefer to paint model kits so the scuff marks aren't a factor after priming before painting. It's something you can try if you want to avoid fully painting a model.
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