The Energon Pub

Looking for advice, I've recently gotten into minor modding, so far I haven't done anything that requires repaints. I'm looking to start, I have no idea where to start as far as what kind of paint to use that doesn't layer or chip off easy obviously.

What kind of paint should I use? Where can I get it?

Thanks

Either:
enamels
Pros:
they don't need varnish
good metallics
Cons:
can dry out in the pot
hard to wash off the brush

or
water-based acryllics
Pros:
easy to mix
easy to wash off brushes
easy to water down
Cons:
need varnishing
Apart from Games Workshop silvers I haven't found good metallics

It's personal preference which you use. You can use both but NEVER USE THE SAME BRUSH FOR BOTH TYPES OF PAINT. You can never get every particle of paint off the brush and they will react and ruin the brush over time.

I can't find my old posts on the subject, but this is the same procedure I follow; except in step 3, you have to be mindful of what your final paint will be. If you're doing lighter colors (red, yellow, tan, etc.) use white to prime.

Mykltron wrote:Either:
enamels
Pros:
they don't need varnish
good metallics
Cons:
can dry out in the pot
hard to wash off the brush

or
water-based acryllics
Pros:
easy to mix
easy to wash off brushes
easy to water down
Cons:
need varnishing
Apart from Games Workshop silvers I haven't found good metallics

It's personal preference which you use. You can use both but NEVER USE THE SAME BRUSH FOR BOTH TYPES OF PAINT. You can never get every particle of paint off the brush and they will react and ruin the brush over time.

In addition -

- If you're going to use acryllics paint, put a *very* thin layer of varnish on the model\toy first - it gives the paint something to cling to. You could also try giving it a *very, very* light sanding, but this can ruin the finish of the paint and the model.

- Reaper Miniatures (USA only) produce very high quality metallics in more shades than Gamesworkshop.

- Never, ever wash your non-metallic brush in a water pot that has washed a metallic paint. The particles will pollute the brush and ruin the finish of the paint. It's also a good idea to keep a separate metallic brush - you don't want to ruin your finish with dried on, stray metallic particles.

- Don't bother with Gamesworkshop brushes - they're crap, expensive and die quickly. Go to an art store and get synthetic brushes - they're about the same price, but higher quality.

I wish I had read these posts before I started minor paint apps on my BW collection (all my paints & brushes are from Games Workshop)... but very useful advice!

Amelie wrote:In addition -

- Never, ever wash your non-metallic brush in a water pot that has washed a metallic paint. The particles will pollute the brush and ruin the finish of the paint. It's also a good idea to keep a separate metallic brush - you don't want to ruin your finish with dried on, stray metallic particles.

I've not heard this before. Is this true for all paint types?

Mykltron wrote:I've not heard this before. Is this true for all paint types?

Metallic paint has small particles of glitter in it, which can pollute paint in two easy ways -

- It can stay on the bristles after you've washed your brush and get into your paint that way.

- You can transfer them from the washpot to your brush and into your paint.

I am very sure this is the case with all metallic paint.

I've never painted a transformer but I build models as a hobby and have found basic Testors enamel works great on many types of plastics and when applied with care has a great glossy finish. Compared to some other brands it can be somewhat less expensive, they often have a good selection of colors on their website (if they don't the paint mixes quite well)and you can generally find them at brick-and-morter hobby shops. They do have a habit of going on a bit thin so if you are painting light-on-dark or dark-on-light it will probubly take a few coats unless you lay the paint on thick which can cause pretty bad dripping.

This type of paint takes a long time to dry, so if you go this route be sure to set aside an area where your work can sit un-disturbed during drying times.

Like others have said though enamel paint is a pain to wash out of brushes usually, but I find soaking the brush in a but of paint-thinner and then washing it with dish soap and warm water works quite well.'Nthing the "DO NOT MIX" metallic and non-metallic brushes, once you have there's no going back, it sticks in the brush fibers forever and forms a sparkly film on the top of your rinse bucket/cup/ect. I personally like to keep a set of differently sized brushes for dark colors and a set for light just in case. Finding a good painters tape is also super helpful for small details and crisp edges.

Amelie wrote:

Mykltron wrote:I've not heard this before. Is this true for all paint types?

Metallic paint has small particles of glitter in it, which can pollute paint in two easy ways -

- It can stay on the bristles after you've washed your brush and get into your paint that way.

- You can transfer them from the washpot to your brush and into your paint.

I am very sure this is the case with all metallic paint.

Thanks Amelie, I'll bear this in mind when I start my next project. Even though you're not sure, it makes sense and better safe than sorry. On a side note: tell your motto to your ovaries!

Zeonic_Miko brings up a good point about drying time. Enamels should be left for about 6 hours I think. A thin coat of water-based can take a few minutes to an hour to dry.

I actually DON'T recommend Testors enamel - at least their gloss black, unless you're going to use a clearcoat on top or they've changed their formula in recent years.

I painted a Hero Megatron up in G1 colors several years ago, and his legs are still slightly tacky-feeling to this day. Dust sticks real well.

I recall this problem with some of their metallic paints as well, back when I used to build model cars.

Matte black and silver worked like a charm though.

Mykltron wrote:On a side note: tell your motto to your ovaries!

Or more to the point - my testicles.

Also, if you're repainting a metal G1 part and you're looking for a paint that is the correct consistancy and good colour matches, Humbrol Gloss Enamel is great.

If possible, you should remove the metal parts completely and dunk them in Acetate (nail varnish remover), give them a white primer and apply your new (or old) colour with spray gun. Gamesworkshop make a really neat one you can put your own colours into - but I haven't tried it with Enamels yet.

kirbenvost wrote:I actually DON'T recommend Testors enamel - at least their gloss black, unless you're going to use a clearcoat on top or they've changed their formula in recent years.

I painted a Hero Megatron up in G1 colors several years ago, and his legs are still slightly tacky-feeling to this day. Dust sticks real well.

I recall this problem with some of their metallic paints as well, back when I used to build model cars.

Matte black and silver worked like a charm though.

Huh, I've only had that problem when painting PVC (the Scorpy that came with Blackout, for example, is still tacky). I've found an acrylic undercoat solves that problem.

Undercoat, really? That seems strange. I would think a topcoat would be more helpful.

I think there's a reaction between the paint and the plasticizers in the PVC that causes the tackiness.
Top-coating it just made a bigger mess.

I've used the undercoat method on a few other figures ('07 Screamer's "fingers", Classics Seekers nosecones) and it works.

Amelie wrote:

Mykltron wrote:On a side note: tell your motto to your ovaries!

Or more to the point - my testicles.

Oh dear, sorry!

Skyfire77 wrote:I think there's a reaction between the paint and the plasticizers in the PVC that causes the tackiness.
Top-coating it just made a bigger mess.

I've used the undercoat method on a few other figures ('07 Screamer's "fingers", Classics Seekers nosecones) and it works.

Interesting. It's quite obvious I know little about chemistry.

kirbenvost wrote:Interesting. It's quite obvious I know little about chemistry.

I don't either, but I've been painting model kits for most of the last 20-25 years, and I've learned a few things, mostly by trial and error.