The Energon Pub

by **constructicon510** » Mon May 28, 2012 3:12 pm

I just bought a complete vintage Devastator and want to do a bit of restoration on it. It is used, but in decent shape, although I am going to buy a replacement Hook (broken leg). I want to replace the stickers, tighten the joints, and redo all the chrome. Can anyone suggest best practices for redoing the chrome and tightening the joints? Also, I think I would like to add something to the wheels to prevent squeaking.

News Credits: 2 · by **Skyfire77** » Tue May 29, 2012 12:40 pm

For chrome once you have the old chrome removed you have three choices: rattle-can model paint, sending it off to be re-metalized at an outfit like Chrome Tech, or Bare Metal Foil.

You can use super glue (or in extreme cases, thin pieces of plastic) to rebuild worn-down joints. Once you've got the limb apart, you should be able to see where the plastic has been worn away. Simply apply a thin layer of glue, let it dry completely, and re-assemble. If it's still loose, repeat.

For squeaky wheels, grab a WD-40 pen, it's way less messy than trying to use a can.

Like Omegatron10 on Facebook · by **Omegatron10** » Tue May 29, 2012 3:01 pm

Skyfire77 wrote:For chrome once you have the old chrome removed you have three choices: rattle-can model paint, sending it off to be re-metalized at an outfit like Chrome Tech, or Bare Metal Foil.

You can use super glue (or in extreme cases, thin pieces of plastic) to rebuild worn-down joints. Once you've got the limb apart, you should be able to see where the plastic has been worn away. Simply apply a thin layer of glue, let it dry completely, and re-assemble. If it's still loose, repeat.

For squeaky wheels, grab a WD-40 pen, it's way less messy than trying to use a can.

Hi just thought I should tell you beware of using too much glue on joints. I did this on my Sludge and ended up totally destroying the legs. make sure you use loctite super-glue it sticks better to plastic. Just do what skyfire77 says.

I do actually enjoy re-building Transformers I still have some rotorblades for my Headmaster Highbrow.

by **constructicon510** » Tue May 29, 2012 3:13 pm

Excellent! Much thanks

News Credits: 409 · by **Stormrider** » Tue May 29, 2012 8:46 pm

How about fixing loose joints that involve pins?

Also, any tips for removing old stickers and residue?

News Credits: 3 · by **Fistful of Energon** » Wed May 30, 2012 12:30 am

Stormrider wrote:How about fixing loose joints that involve pins?

Also, any tips for removing old stickers and residue?

I swear by Goo Gone (not goof off!!) helps to let soak for awhile, apply with q tip. Also lighter fluid works pretty good. I used Ronsonol to remove all the old decals on a G1 sixshot, soaks through the decal more than goo gone too. Although you cant get much safer than Goo Gone due to the fact its citrus based.

Like Omegatron10 on Facebook · by **Omegatron10** » Mon Jun 04, 2012 11:16 am

I have a minor issue with my frenzy that I got I badly need a spring for his head. Tried pen-springs they are too big or springy.

Any suggestions?

Also I would definetely recommend styrene rods if you have any damaged parts that need repairing but are concealed within the body. I used it on my Rumble to repair the connector as it was broken completely off now head springs out perfectly (almost).

News Credits: 7 · by **Geekee1** » Mon Jun 04, 2012 10:06 pm

Stormrider wrote:How about fixing loose joints that involve pins?

Also, any tips for removing old stickers and residue?

I like using Future floor wax. It is very thin and flows very easily around the pin. It's acrylic so it wipes off with water if you get it anywhere that you didn't want it too. It sometimes takes a couple of coats but it is an excellent solution.