The Energon Pub

News Credits: 60 · by **fenrir72** » Thu Jan 13, 2011 11:26 pm

I recently purchased a G1 Double dealer from ebay in a really great condition. In fact it was such a bargain.

Trouble is, the rivets on his wheels are somewhat rusty(quite common for a lot of Powermasters released despite being MISB).

I need some advice on what type of rust remover I should use without damaging his plastic wheels.

News Credits: 1 · by **MightyMagnus78** » Fri Jan 14, 2011 8:49 am

I normally use Brasso metal wadding and 'elbow grease' on mine. Takes time but the results are generally good.

News Credits: 60 · by **fenrir72** » Fri Jan 14, 2011 9:55 am

Is it "plastic" safe?

News Credits: 1 · by **MightyMagnus78** » Fri Jan 14, 2011 6:10 pm

fenrir72 wrote:Is it "plastic" safe?

I've never had any problems using Brasso wadding, however always remove any excess residue once the metal area has been treated.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brasso

Hope this helps.

News Credits: 226 · by **Burn** » Fri Jan 14, 2011 6:19 pm

The other option is to completely remove the pin. Following one person's suggestion, you get a soldering iron and put it on the pin. The pin eventually heats up and can then be removed.

Tried it once. Pain in the arse to do on your own. Definitely only do as a last resort.

Didn't think Brasso worked on rust, might have to try that on my own Doubledealer (who has the same problems)

News Credits: 1 · by **MightyMagnus78** » Fri Jan 14, 2011 6:41 pm

Burn wrote:The other option is to completely remove the pin. Following one person's suggestion, you get a soldering iron and put it on the pin. The pin eventually heats up and can then be removed.

Tried it once. Pain in the arse to do on your own. Definitely only do as a last resort.

Didn't think Brasso worked on rust, might have to try that on my own Doubledealer (who has the same problems)

I'm not a chemist, but I think the theory is, even though Brasso is a metal polish it's also slightly abrasive so you can use it to remove surface rust. I've used it on my G2 Hook recently.

Failing that you could try using a 'rust remedy' available from most automotive stores. I've never use it on TF's but works a treat on rusty car body panels. I don't know whether its 'plastic safe' or not though.

News Credits: 60 · by **fenrir72** » Sat Jan 15, 2011 12:19 am

Thanks for the input guys.

@ Burn, it really is a pain in the @ss for Doubledealer........I wonder what kind of cheapo metal screwsHasbro used back then, my more older G1 figs never had that problem. Same problem too with Powermaster Optimus, though it affected the screws on his head, which is easily remedied because well, you can screw it off. The d@mn wheel rivets really are to put it mildly ugly.

News Credits: 33 · by **Amelie** » Sat Jan 15, 2011 1:11 am

I'm guessing that the pins are made of some tin-alloy. Tin is soft and oxidates easily (which would explain the corrosion and the ease of breaking nicely).

They wouldn't use it now, though - the price of tin is sky high now.

News Credits: 60 · by **fenrir72** » Sat Jan 15, 2011 4:39 am

Back then, using them was cheap no? I wonder if such was the case for their Japanese counterparts(the Godmasters).....rusting of the screws etc.

News Credits: 33 · by **Amelie** » Sat Jan 15, 2011 9:24 am

I'm willing to bet the screws are the cheapest kind of steel possible. Tin is actually useful on stuff like rods on toys, because it has a bit of give, meaning it doesn't snap right away, but bends a little first.

Did the brasso work? If so, I've got a whole Menasor that can be saved, since the joints are still mega tight.

News Credits: 60 · by **fenrir72** » Sat Jan 15, 2011 8:24 pm

I'm looking for some at my local Handyman. Brasso seems to be available online though

News Credits: 226 · by **Burn** » Sat Jan 15, 2011 8:32 pm

Have you got a junker to experiment on first?

News Credits: 33 · by **Amelie** » Sat Jan 15, 2011 9:37 pm

I have some Silvo somewhere, and that should be almost the same stuff.

I'll try it on some junker thats a little rusty and put some before and after pics in the morning.

News Credits: 60 · by **fenrir72** » Sat Jan 15, 2011 9:40 pm

I hope you're successful Madame. If it's plastic safe then Silvo I go.

by **MGrotusque** » Sun Jan 16, 2011 12:27 pm

I had no clue that Brasso also polishes plastic. VERY interesting. I love restoring figures and this tidbit of info could be useful to take out those minor surface scuffs.

Nevr-dull is another one to check out. It does the same as brasso and some say a little better. It comes packaged with wadding. Good alternative if you can't find Brasso with wadding.

News Credits: 60 · by **fenrir72** » Mon Jan 17, 2011 4:05 am

What about WD-40?

News Credits: 1 · by **MightyMagnus78** » Mon Jan 17, 2011 11:42 am

fenrir72 wrote:What about WD-40?

WD40 is used more as a penetrating fluid. It can be use to remove dirt and debris though so maybe you could use it for rust removal as well. I've not tried it on TF's personally but here's a link...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WD-40

Hope this helps, just let me know how you get on. By the way didn't the Brasso work?

News Credits: 60 · by **fenrir72** » Mon Jan 17, 2011 12:28 pm

Not available in my country btw (Brasso).

News Credits: 1 · by **MightyMagnus78** » Mon Jan 17, 2011 4:28 pm

fenrir72 wrote:Not available in my country btw (Brasso).

Isn't there a similar/alternative product you can get instead?

News Credits: 60 · by **fenrir72** » Mon Jan 17, 2011 6:37 pm

Closest is WD-40...........think I'll get the pen canister version.

In this FAQ:

http://www.wd40.com/faqs/#a98

it mentions what type you can and cannot apply on. From my research, it seems ABS/PVC seems to be safe, but I'm having trouble looking for a junker to experiment on. The late 80's TFs plastic make-up is probably different from todays materials so I'm treading carefully,.

News Credits: 1 · by **MightyMagnus78** » Mon Jan 17, 2011 6:47 pm

fenrir72 wrote:Closest is WD-40...........think I'll get the pen canister version.

In this FAQ:

http://www.wd40.com/faqs/#a98

it mentions what type you can and cannot apply on. From my research, it seems ABS/PVC seems to be safe, but I'm having trouble looking for a junker to experiment on. The late 80's TFs plastic make-up is probably different from todays materials so I'm treading carefully,.

Good luck with that mate, fingers crossed it works for you. Please let me know how you get on.

News Credits: 2 · by **Skyfire77** » Mon Jan 17, 2011 7:57 pm

FWIW, I've used WD-40 to loosen pins and screws without ill effect, so far (Knock-on-wood!).

News Credits: 60 · by **fenrir72** » Mon Jan 17, 2011 10:59 pm

Did it get rid of the rust?

by **MGrotusque** » Tue Jan 18, 2011 1:29 am

MightyMagnus78 wrote:
fenrir72 wrote:Not available in my country btw (Brasso).

Isn't there a similar/alternative product you can get instead?

I just bought a product called "Peek".

It's a metal polish similar to Brasso but removes rust as well and protects the metal afterwards. I used it on the rims of my truck because the black paint had chipped off in some spots from road debris or whatever and rust was starting to form. It took it the rust off no problem and didn't damage the paint at all.

I also used it on the scuffed and scratched plastic of my G1 Skullcruncher that also has oxidized screws and rivets.

I gotta tell ya. He looks spectacular. The plastic practically looks bran new. Plus the screws and rivets look shiny again.

It is a mild abrasive though so don't use it on any clear plastic such as windshields and windows.