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soundwave13c wrote:thats really cool! How much does this cost again
El Duque wrote:soundwave13c wrote:thats really cool! How much does this cost again
The pre-order was for $100.00 shipped. I picked mine up from the post office today, mine's labeled 79 of 100. Have to admit I'm a little intimidated by this kit. Not so much by the difficulty but the price, and knowing that if I screw up I can't just run down to the store and pick up another. The assembly looks easy enough, but a lot of the parts are going to require quite a bit of clean up before assembly. Also there are a lot of small parts that look very fragile. One of my spoilers was broken in the package, I think it will be an easy fix though. I'm going to start sanding, cutting pegs, drilling holes, and dry fitting parts tonight.
zodconvoy wrote:El Duque wrote:soundwave13c wrote:thats really cool! How much does this cost again
The pre-order was for $100.00 shipped. I picked mine up from the post office today, mine's labeled 79 of 100. Have to admit I'm a little intimidated by this kit. Not so much by the difficulty but the price, and knowing that if I screw up I can't just run down to the store and pick up another. The assembly looks easy enough, but a lot of the parts are going to require quite a bit of clean up before assembly. Also there are a lot of small parts that look very fragile. One of my spoilers was broken in the package, I think it will be an easy fix though. I'm going to start sanding, cutting pegs, drilling holes, and dry fitting parts tonight.
Good luck, Duque! Just be careful with trimming off the extra bits. Not all of them are extra and you won't realize it until assembly! And check your sticker sheet, mine was cut off center making most of the useless. Another detail I didn't notice at the start. If you finish before me, feel free to post pics. I won't bitch, promise.
El Duque wrote:I'm a little concerned about the little grey sliders that go in the lower legs. Those four little pegs on the corners look delicate, in fact one of them had the tip broke off in package. It still fits and stays in place okay so I guess it will be fine.
I'm not expierienced with resin kits. What kind of paint will be best, I was considering Krylon fusion for the white.
OPTIMUS MAGNUS wrote:nice work El Duque! Heck yeah, I CANT WAIT to get mine in! I will post any problems I have when I build him as well. I should get my kit in middle of next week and I am literally 'taking vacation time' just to paint and build this thing. As a modeler, I have a question...would it be easier to paint some parts then assemble and follow up with details or, just paint the damn thing after the build process? (Based on complexity of the build process, scratching paint ect.)
Good to see one up close and fully assembled. I will post pics of my progress as well once I start the build.
El Duque wrote:OPTIMUS MAGNUS wrote:nice work El Duque! Heck yeah, I CANT WAIT to get mine in! I will post any problems I have when I build him as well. I should get my kit in middle of next week and I am literally 'taking vacation time' just to paint and build this thing. As a modeler, I have a question...would it be easier to paint some parts then assemble and follow up with details or, just paint the damn thing after the build process? (Based on complexity of the build process, scratching paint ect.)
Good to see one up close and fully assembled. I will post pics of my progress as well once I start the build.
I decided to fully assemble the figure and work out the transformation before painting. I figured if I painted first the assembled any problems I ecountered would result in modifications that would have to be repainted. Once you get him figured out assembling and diassembling his easy anyway.
Here are the problems I encountered. The outside part of the right knee joint broke when I was trying to pin it. Luckily it was a clean break and superglue and resin work well together easy fix. I accidently drilled through the front of the chest when drilling out the holes for the shoulder pins. The front of the chest where the details are is extremely thin. Be careful when you drill out the shoulder hole, when you start getting close slow down and go easy. I just barely hit it and the drill went right through. I just drilled the other side out to so they would match. I've since decided I may try to repair the detail and plug the holes with some modeling epoxy. There are also some small detail pieces on the top of each side of the chest that are paper thin and when he transforms the shoulders go right over these. The first time I attempted to transform him one broke off. I was so small and thin I couldn't glue it back, I just removed them both. The legs have sliders inside that are held in place by four small tabs that fit into groves inside the leg and these are very delicate and probably longer than they need to be. I had one snap, but luckily found it and glued it back, I then shortened all of them. Lastly they didn't send enough 3mm PVC rod with mine, this is what you will use to pin most of the joints. I would recommend using the 2.5mm rod to pin the elbow joints. It works just as good and should ensure you have enough of the 3mm rod. I also added a couple of additional pegs in the lower legs to make the rear section of the alt mode more stable.
capellamusic wrote:Try this link:
http://www.gremlins.com/jim_bertges/first.html
They say that:
"Resin kits accept nearly any kind of paint you'd use on a styrene kit; enamels, acrylics, lacquers or oils, or any combination. On the other hand, vinyl kits can be very picky about paint and it's best to stick with the water-based acrylics since enamels and oils won't fully dry on a vinyl surface. Once your figure is primed, you can test nearly every painting technique you know."
I have acrylics to paint my 2 Mashin Eiyuden Wataru resin kits, but since I haven't started them yet I have no idea if it dries well or not...
OPTIMUS MAGNUS wrote:Did you clean and do a light sanding and then a cleaning with dish soap? That works sometimes. So does Bulldog Adhesion promoter. (On plastic anyways...don't know what it would do to resin. May have to try on a scrap piece first.) other than that, I am not sure. I have used Krylon Fusion on plastic with pretty good results...then again...SGC Drift is resin. I have always used Testors on resin and it worked fine....I don't know...I am stumped...someone who knows whats up come help us!!! lol...
El Duque wrote:I actually found a guy in my local area that does customs and from what I've seen does a great job. I've handed Drift over to him. He seems to think he won't have any problems getting him painted. He's also going to repair the chest where I accidentally drilled through, sand out all the seams and ridges in the resin, fill in any air bubbles he finds, and just overhaul him in general. He wants to put the head on a ball joint and improve the way the torso connects to the waist so it doesn't want to pull apart during transformation. Can't wait to get him back, I'll be sure to post pics.
Convotron wrote:El Duque wrote:I actually found a guy in my local area that does customs and from what I've seen does a great job. I've handed Drift over to him. He seems to think he won't have any problems getting him painted. He's also going to repair the chest where I accidentally drilled through, sand out all the seams and ridges in the resin, fill in any air bubbles he finds, and just overhaul him in general. He wants to put the head on a ball joint and improve the way the torso connects to the waist so it doesn't want to pull apart during transformation. Can't wait to get him back, I'll be sure to post pics.
I for one eagerly await the pics of the finished figure!
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