The Energon Pub

[SnipeShade]

Ah, I see. Thanks for clearing that up. Thats hardcore stuff there. X3 Have fun with that! Maybe one day I'll try that. ^^

[Kohdok]

Zoids Z-builders.

The zoids Z-builders are extremely compatible with any transformers that accept mini-cons, like from the Armada and Energon series. The tabs that normally accept minicons or weapons mesh well with the size and shapes of the blocks and tabs of the Z-builders. You can fit transformers with new weapons and parts freely, and the more points you have for connection, the more possibilities there are.

[texan_eagle_scout]

This is the main directory for this amazing "basher"'s worklogs.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=53

The completed picture thread is here:
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6740

The DOOM3 case is a terrific example of using whatever works... (details in the worklog)[/url]

[Sonray]

I have a Classics Starscrtream I am giving a repaint treatment to... I've managed to Frankenstein a nice one with good, tight joints... save one. One of the wings is a bit on the wobbly side. Any way to tighten that?

My first thought was to dribble a small bit of rubber cement in to the hole with the pin to form a jury-rigged gasket... making the hole slightly smaller.

Anyone else have this problem? If so, how did you fix it?

I havnt had that problem as i havnt ever done anything to a classics screamer BUT your idea sounds like it would fix your problem.

[Ramrider]

Are you referring to the hole where the wing plugs in, rather than the one with the pin in it?

If so, that technique might do it; although once you've put the cement in, you'll probably want to plug the wing straight in,then wipe off the overspill. Otherwise the hole will just be full of cement and the wing won't go in at all.

[Mourningstar]

So, no doubt this has been discussed before, but how do you carefully remove the long pins from Transformers. Like what tools would I need? Thanx

[Ragnorok64]

Where's a good tutorial/guide on painting metal toys/pieces of toys?

[Icetron]

I have a possibly stupid question. So if I were to paint a figure, I should throw it into soapy water to clean it from grease/oil from the factory? Won't that rust some of the screws and stuff? Or am I supposed to remove the screws from the toy first before I throw it into the water? I'm only asking because I'm worried that if I do have to remove the screws first, I might wreck the toy when I put it back together.

[Ramrider]

It's certainly recommended that you give it a wash, especially if you intend to go all-out on a repaint (I never do wash them, but I'm lazy ) - the de-moulder compound does make it more difficult to paint over.

And no, your screws and pins should be fine. I think oxidisation generally occurs over longer periods. Giving it a wash and letting it thoroughly dry won't hurt at all.

[Icetron]

Ah okay, good to know. Thanks. When I can find decently priced paints locally I might give it a shot at repainting some of my movie toys.

[Briggs]

1. Does anyone use Warhammer paints for repainting their figs?

2. Are all acrylics basically the same? (Quality wise).

3. What are the most common acrylic paints being used by folks repainting folks? (ie what kind, tamiya, testers, etc)

Thanks!

[Ramrider]

1) Yeah, quite a lot of people. Most people that come into kitbashing after they've been involved in GW stuff will start out with the paints they've already been using, which makes perfect sense. Personally I use a few, but I have a larger selection of other paints which are better value, so I only really use them when I want a specific colour. But if you're coming into the hobby from GW and you already have the paints, then yeah, they'll do the job a treat.

2) Not at all. For one thing, you've got the broad categorisations, mostly between hobby acrylics and artists' acrylics.
Hobby ones are usually of a single cream sort of a consistency, and are basically designed to offer a good rate of flow while still maintaining a decent coverage. This the GW sort of thing.
Artists' acrylics are the ones in tubes that come out like toothpaste. Excellent for laying on canvasses in thick strokes, but obviously they can also be watered down as much as you need to.

Then of course there's the differences between different brands. They'll vary fairly widely in consistency, quality of coverage, colour range, and price; and people have their own preferences. I couldn't really say which is the best to go for; I'd just recommend trying a few different types (a couple of colours each to start with) and seeing what you like best.

3) Tamiya and Testors are probably the two most-used brands for kitbashing, but they're far from the only ones. For those that prefer to spray, Krylon Fusion is well-regarded as one of the best for painting plastic. It bonds to the surface of the plastic, and once it's cured (about a week or so) it's pretty much chip-resistant. But availability is limited; I think there are only a few places outside the US that can obtain it, and unfortunately the UK isn't one of 'em.
Games Workshop paints are also pretty common; like I said, quite a few people who kitbash also game, so they use the paints already in their collection. Also, many people have limited access to craft stores, but GW is pretty well spread out nowadays, so most people seem to have a store not too far away.
Personally, my main pick are Inscribe Hobby Acrylics, which have good coverage and are really good value (at 99p for 59ml, they're about 10x cheaper than GW - five times as much for half the price).
The only paints I'd really advise against are Anita's, which while they're in the same price bracket as Inscribe, I find have very poor coverage and adhesion (and I think ThunderThruster and Sonray will back me up on this... ).

Hope that helps.

[Sonray]

Yes anitas paints do lack adhesion so avoid them. I learnt this the hard way but i managed to find some Tamiya paints the other day so im good now. I'll still use my anitas stuff on less important areas of my projects if i need to just instead of throwing them away.

[Briggs]

Above and beyond, thanks guys. Appreciate it. Time to dig around Warhammer cabinet!

[Wes Crayon]

2. Are all acrylics basically the same? (Quality wise).

Ramrider already answered this question pretty fully, but I've got another one along these lines -- has anyone tried using the Michaels craft store brand acrylic paints? I don't remember the exact ml amounts, but they were like $0.50 for a bottle twice the size of the $2.50 and $3 Testors and Tamiya paints. They don't have quite as varied a selection of colors as the latter two (so I'd probably have to use a combination of both to get the desired effects...), but I'm always looking to save a few pennies here and there! Yeah, I'm cheap like that.

[Ramrider]

I couldn't say anything about Michaels' paints, I'm afraid, as I'm in the wrong country.
But what I will say is that as long as the paints are any good, you may well be able to save money on buying new colours simply by purchasing a limited pallette and mixing.
Your best bet to start with is black, white, and a warm and cool shade each of red, yellow and blue. From those you'll be able to mix almost any colour you need. On top of those, any other colours you buy are just useful timesavers.

[Uniprimus]

Question:

What is th ebest clear coat sealer for an already painted hasbro toy?

[Wes Crayon]

I couldn't say anything about Michaels' paints, I'm afraid, as I'm in the wrong country.
But what I will say is that as long as the paints are any good, you may well be able to save money on buying new colours simply by purchasing a limited pallette and mixing.
Your best bet to start with is black, white, and a warm and cool shade each of red, yellow and blue. From those you'll be able to mix almost any colour you need. On top of those, any other colours you buy are just useful timesavers.

Thanks much, Ramrider -- going to head out tomorrow and pick some of those up. And you mention mixing *almost* any color -- you wouldn't happen to know of a way to mix clear colors and metallic variants, would you? Or is that where the almost part comes in?

Also -- minor question -- what kind of tape do you guys use to mask certain areas when you paint? is it just regular old scotch tape, or something a bit more expensive?

[Sonray]

I couldn't say anything about Michaels' paints, I'm afraid, as I'm in the wrong country.
But what I will say is that as long as the paints are any good, you may well be able to save money on buying new colours simply by purchasing a limited pallette and mixing.
Your best bet to start with is black, white, and a warm and cool shade each of red, yellow and blue. From those you'll be able to mix almost any colour you need. On top of those, any other colours you buy are just useful timesavers.

Thanks much, Ramrider -- going to head out tomorrow and pick some of those up. And you mention mixing *almost* any color -- you wouldn't happen to know of a way to mix clear colors and metallic variants, would you? Or is that where the almost part comes in?

Also -- minor question -- what kind of tape do you guys use to mask certain areas when you paint? is it just regular old scotch tape, or something a bit more expensive?

Id imagine people use Masking tape. Its not as harsh as scotch tape and isnt as plastic-y. Scotch tape isnt really suited for masking.

Unless of course this scotch tape is something else in the US, but over heres its clear tape that you use to pack stuff with and stuff. Masking tape is for...well masking.

[Wes Crayon]

Id imagine people use Masking tape. Its not as harsh as scotch tape and isnt as plastic-y. Scotch tape isnt really suited for masking.

Unless of course this scotch tape is something else in the US, but over heres its clear tape that you use to pack stuff with and stuff. Masking tape is for...well masking.

HA! That would make sense, wouldn't it? I've always liked it because it's easy to tear. Will have to give it a try!

[Sonray]

Id imagine people use Masking tape. Its not as harsh as scotch tape and isnt as plastic-y. Scotch tape isnt really suited for masking.

Unless of course this scotch tape is something else in the US, but over heres its clear tape that you use to pack stuff with and stuff. Masking tape is for...well masking.

HA! That would make sense, wouldn't it? I've always liked it because it's easy to tear. Will have to give it a try!

Careful with it though cos the paint tends to seep through it at the edges, brush away from the edge, not into it if that makes any sense. That way the paint wont seep under the edge and onto the part you didnt want any paint on. Then again if you are using acrylics then its not such a big deal, just irritating.

[Kyle Robinson]

Well, Im a noob to the site, BUT a veteran customizers that some of you might now from other corners of the web.

Im just getting into the TF kitbash/repaint scene... My body of work lies in superhero customs. Here is a link to various Tutorials of mine... maybe some can transcend to the TF customizers, just thought I would throw it out there

http://www.kylerobinsoncustoms.com/links/tut.htm

[Sonray]

Well, Im a noob to the site, BUT a veteran customizers that some of you might now from other corners of the web.

Im just getting into the TF kitbash/repaint scene... My body of work lies in superhero customs. Here is a link to various Tutorials of mine... maybe some can transcend to the TF customizers, just thought I would throw it out there

http://www.kylerobinsoncustoms.com/links/tut.htm

Thanks Kyle! Ive bookmarked your site, could always use more handy tips.

And welcome btw!

[Fred2012]

tamia paint kiks ass, it dries very fast and it hardly leaves brush marks

[Justicity]

Right, I don't want to sound like a total idiot but hey... sometimes you have to.

Can someone give me a straight answer, I'm confused about paints & stuff, too many opinions flying around I guess You should all stop having so much free will.

Anyway. Which type of paints would you suggest I use for repainting toys from the beast wars line? What ones should I avoid?

Any suggestions?