Transformers and More @ The Seibertron Store














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frenzy_rumble wrote:acrylics won't chip or peel, unless you're using the wrong type, whihc i hope you weren't
car paint needs to bake in order to dry, VERY hot, in fact - a TF would melt at that temp and for that amount of time. how in the world did you get a 2 part car paint dry?
frenzy_rumble wrote:acrylics won't chip or peel, unless you're using the wrong type, whihc i hope you weren't
car paint needs to bake in order to dry, VERY hot, in fact - a TF would melt at that temp and for that amount of time. how in the world did you get a 2 part car paint dry?
Auto Bot wrote:Sonray wrote:Auto Bot wrote:The paint do look a bit thick on the head, body and arms. Maybe you can try thin coats on your next try. Since you're stripping down the paint anyway.
Something like the paint on the legs; looks thin enough.
The cannon paint is the best one. It looks realistic. I'm truly impressed with this part.
I put the paint on as thin as possible, the tamiya flat red didnt cover very well over the black plastic. So i had to put on four coats just to cover the black plastic.
I wont have this problem with the air-brushed applied car paint though.
So your red paints are all hand brushed?
Sonray wrote:Auto Bot wrote:Sonray wrote:Auto Bot wrote:The paint do look a bit thick on the head, body and arms. Maybe you can try thin coats on your next try. Since you're stripping down the paint anyway.
Something like the paint on the legs; looks thin enough.
The cannon paint is the best one. It looks realistic. I'm truly impressed with this part.
I put the paint on as thin as possible, the tamiya flat red didnt cover very well over the black plastic. So i had to put on four coats just to cover the black plastic.
I wont have this problem with the air-brushed applied car paint though.
So your red paints are all hand brushed?
All the body parts like the arms and legs and head and all that are painted with a brush (with acrylics, basically all the sections that chipped) whereas the alt mode car parts was painted with an airbrush with car paints (the pieces that DIDNT chip.)
Spray adhesion, either spray paint or airbrushing, does usually provide a stronger bond because the paint goes on finer and in thinner coats. Thin coats provide better adhesion.Auto Bot wrote:Sonray wrote:Auto Bot wrote:Sonray wrote:Auto Bot wrote:The paint do look a bit thick on the head, body and arms. Maybe you can try thin coats on your next try. Since you're stripping down the paint anyway.
Something like the paint on the legs; looks thin enough.
The cannon paint is the best one. It looks realistic. I'm truly impressed with this part.
I put the paint on as thin as possible, the tamiya flat red didnt cover very well over the black plastic. So i had to put on four coats just to cover the black plastic.
I wont have this problem with the air-brushed applied car paint though.
So your red paints are all hand brushed?
All the body parts like the arms and legs and head and all that are painted with a brush (with acrylics, basically all the sections that chipped) whereas the alt mode car parts was painted with an airbrush with car paints (the pieces that DIDNT chip.)
Seems like spray paint adhesion is more superior to hand brush paint.
Tramp wrote:Spray adhesion, either spray paint or airbrushing, does usually provide a stronger bond because the paint goes on finer and in thinner coats. Thin coats provide better adhesion.Auto Bot wrote:Sonray wrote:Auto Bot wrote:Sonray wrote:Auto Bot wrote:The paint do look a bit thick on the head, body and arms. Maybe you can try thin coats on your next try. Since you're stripping down the paint anyway.
Something like the paint on the legs; looks thin enough.
The cannon paint is the best one. It looks realistic. I'm truly impressed with this part.
I put the paint on as thin as possible, the tamiya flat red didnt cover very well over the black plastic. So i had to put on four coats just to cover the black plastic.
I wont have this problem with the air-brushed applied car paint though.
So your red paints are all hand brushed?
All the body parts like the arms and legs and head and all that are painted with a brush (with acrylics, basically all the sections that chipped) whereas the alt mode car parts was painted with an airbrush with car paints (the pieces that DIDNT chip.)
Seems like spray paint adhesion is more superior to hand brush paint.
Auto Bot wrote:Scary to rub down plastics with sandpaper. I could inadvertently alter the shape or slope.
Sonray wrote:BLACKOUT2007 wrote:Paint looks kinda thick on some parts.
Thats called "gloss" which makes thing shiny and look like metal. The paint was put on as thin as possible tp prevent chipping, which didnt work anyway.
Auto Bot wrote:Sonray wrote:BLACKOUT2007 wrote:Paint looks kinda thick on some parts.
Thats called "gloss" which makes thing shiny and look like metal. The paint was put on as thin as possible tp prevent chipping, which didnt work anyway.
Is it possible to achieve a flat finish using spray?
tyler1451 wrote:alt mode pics?
Sherade wrote:We'll wait.
But you better do it.
Sonray wrote:Sherade wrote:We'll wait.
But you better do it.
I will otherwise ive wasted a perfectly good voyager ironhide, a toy i personally want for myself yet alone make one to repaint and sell on!
Because of a real life car project i have going on, as well as a commissioned re-paint, progress on this will be slow. By that time someone else would have done one by copying mine anyway so you wont care by then.
Auto Bot wrote:Sonray wrote:Sherade wrote:We'll wait.
But you better do it.
I will otherwise ive wasted a perfectly good voyager ironhide, a toy i personally want for myself yet alone make one to repaint and sell on!
Because of a real life car project i have going on, as well as a commissioned re-paint, progress on this will be slow. By that time someone else would have done one by copying mine anyway so you wont care by then.
We care.
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