The Energon Pub

5kywarp wrote:What are these markers you speak of? Are they for putting the fine black lines in the amour detail?

Check out this video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gI_j_v2rij4

5kywarp wrote:What are these markers you speak of? Are they for putting the fine black lines in the amour detail?

There are special Gundam markers too but I think you can use the regular ones that work just as well.

Well, the only connection I can think of is TF Energon Mirage .

I by the way ordered a MG GP-01A. I am going to paint that in Christmas holiday.

SpacerAM2 wrote:The one I'm getting is already painted in reference to the Gundam plastic parts.

Not entirely correct. The parts are, for the most part, molded, not painted, in the right colours. However, there will always be areas that are not coloured correctly. Take for example, the HG 1/144 Destiny I'm working on. The chest area is mostly a dark blue, however, there are two sections that are light blue and the interior of the thrusters is grey. These two areas are not coloured correctly, meaning if you don't paint them, your kit will not be colour accurate.

With the HG 1/144 RX-78-2, most of the colours should be accurate (if memory serves) due to the simplicity of its colour-scheme. With the MG RX-78-2 however, there are minor areas that will require painting if you want an accurate-coloured model, such as the head vulcans.

As for markers, using the panel line marker is fine when detailing, however sometimes they have a hard time getting into narrow lines. Using the Gundam Colour markers sets though to paint your kit is highly unadvisable. You won't get as even a coating as you would with actual paint and are far more likely to smudge your paint job.

When you do paint, remember to let the piece sit for at least an hour or more (depending on what paint you're using) before touching it again. Acrylics dry quite quickly, as do lacquers. The drawback with lacquers is that they can dry on your brush as your painting. Enamels form the strongest coating, but take upwards of overnight to cure properly.

rob_charb wrote:

SpacerAM2 wrote:The one I'm getting is already painted in reference to the Gundam plastic parts.

Not entirely correct. The parts are, for the most part, molded, not painted, in the right colours. However, there will always be areas that are not coloured correctly. Take for example, the HG 1/144 Destiny I'm working on. The chest area is mostly a dark blue, however, there are two sections that are light blue and the interior of the thrusters is grey. These two areas are not coloured correctly, meaning if you don't paint them, your kit will not be colour accurate.

With the HG 1/144 RX-78-2, most of the colours should be accurate (if memory serves) due to the simplicity of its colour-scheme. With the MG RX-78-2 however, there are minor areas that will require painting if you want an accurate-coloured model, such as the head vulcans.

As for markers, using the panel line marker is fine when detailing, however sometimes they have a hard time getting into narrow lines. Using the Gundam Colour markers sets though to paint your kit is highly unadvisable. You won't get as even a coating as you would with actual paint and are far more likely to smudge your paint job.

When you do paint, remember to let the piece sit for at least an hour or more (depending on what paint you're using) before touching it again. Acrylics dry quite quickly, as do lacquers. The drawback with lacquers is that they can dry on your brush as your painting. Enamels form the strongest coating, but take upwards of overnight to cure properly.

If I may ask what kind of brushes do you suggest? So the paint job doesn't come out bubbly or sloppy. Thankyou!

That's a good question. All my supplies are in Japanese. I stumbled across the brushes I have now through trial and error by trying out different btushes until I found ones I liked.

Usually, I go with soft-bristled brushes, stiff ones tend to leave more brush strokes. For painting large surfaces, I use a wide, flat brush and for smaller, detailed areas, I use a thin round brush. Generally, the better quality brushes cost more (I spend about 2-3 Canadian on each brush) but their worth the money.

I actually have to make a run out to my model supply shop today so I'll let you know that actual name of the brush I use when I get back.

rob_charb wrote:That's a good question. All my supplies are in Japanese. I stumbled across the brushes I have now through trial and error by trying out different btushes until I found ones I liked.

Usually, I go with soft-bristled brushes, stiff ones tend to leave more brush strokes. For painting large surfaces, I use a wide, flat brush and for smaller, detailed areas, I use a thin round brush. Generally, the better quality brushes cost more (I spend about 2-3 Canadian on each brush) but their worth the money.

I actually have to make a run out to my model supply shop today so I'll let you know that actual name of the brush I use when I get back.

Thanks, when you can please do!

Sorry, the shop was closed. He's been keeping some really weird hours lately. I did however, find one of my older ones that I was planning on replacing today. They are Tamiya Modelling Brush No2. Those are what I use for large surfaces. Unfortunately, my detailing brush is all in Chinese, so I can't give you any information on that.

When you buy a brush, check the bristles to see how soft and thick they are. Generally, I've found the softer, the better. Stiff bristles won't give you a very nice even coat, unless you are painting fine details.

rob_charb wrote:Sorry, the shop was closed. He's been keeping some really weird hours lately. I did however, find one of my older ones that I was planning on replacing today. They are Tamiya Modelling Brush No2. Those are what I use for large surfaces. Unfortunately, my detailing brush is all in Chinese, so I can't give you any information on that.

When you buy a brush, check the bristles to see how soft and thick they are. Generally, I've found the softer, the better. Stiff bristles won't give you a very nice even coat, unless you are painting fine details.

Your advice is appreciated!

like the video funny in some parts

http://www.gundamstoreandmore.com/gms105.html

there also other gundam markers that did not make it in the video that have the big bullky tips but some of the gundam markers suck i was painting god gundam from g gundam series the big black gundam marker i used that have the big bulky tip i put my thumb on the foot so i can get the little details with the fine point gunadam pen and the paint was coming off on to my thumb remind you the paint was dry and so was my thumb i use some gundam markers that dont come off with a touch of finger on the paint and also some other basic modle paint as well glossy type and non glossy types of paint.

glossy paint green light green looks extreamly better on the head of the gundam that the stickers they give you in modle kits it self looks more detailed and realistic and alot less cheap looking than if i where to use the stickers

SpacerAM2 wrote:This is the one I'm aiming for. If I succeed building it and I like it. I want to get Char's Red Zaku 2 next.

http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-MG-RX-78-2 ... B00005BXIB

That's a Master Grade, you should like it! My wife and I have built about 3 of them, and really enjoyed it, We're working on a Perfect Grade Char's Zaku right now. Just stay away from anything High Grade, they suck...

The Perfect Grade Zeta is a total kickass transforming Gundam. Massive, beautiful, some die-cast, light-up cockpit, wing tips and sword, superbly articulated...