The Energon Pub

I've been mulling it over for some time now.
I really really REALLY want to get into customising.
So, Iv'e decided to start off with a repaint.
My choice of character mold, is the seeker.
I have Deluxe Thundercracker, but none of the other seekers, might as well make a custom seeker, right?
My main issues are:
1. What paints and methods to use for solid color (not airbrushing)
2. how to go about Detailing (Stripes, etc)
3. Were would be a good place to buy all this stuff online (Preferably via Paypal)
4. Is using the seeker mold a risky move, seeing as how it has a tendancy to skyrocket in price?
5. Best methods for cleaning a figure?
6. What kind of inviroment should I do this in?
7. What is a CHEAP camera that will get good shots of the figure once I'm finaly done?
8. what things to avoid while painting the figure in question, i.e water, skin oils, dirt, etc. and how to push those out of the equation?
9. Any other advice will help me here!

Please, respond, and keep in mind I may or may not do this based on certain responses, but I really want to do it!

General info, I'll answer some specifics afterwards.

Here's how I do it:

I highly recommend taking the figure apart to paint, especially the bigger ones. It makes things easier if you plan on painting parts multiple colors, or using spray cans or an airbrush, and also cuts down on the chance of you accidentally turning your MP Starscream into an Action Master, if you catch my drift. It's kinda daunting at first, but GO SLOW, plan ahead, keep organized, and it's a piece of oil cake.

Now then...

Gather up some small empty bottles (paint, pills, whatever).

Take a good look at the figure, see how it's assembled. MOST deluxe sized TFs have the limbs attached via ball & socket joints with the torso being one unit, while bigger figures (and some of the older ones) have the torso in two (or more) pieces with the limbs sandwiched between them.
Mark on the bottles (label maker works great for this!) what you're putting in it. (head, torso, upper left leg, lower right arm, etc.) You may want to use multiple bottles if there's a lot of screws. Alternately get a roll of double-sided tape and mark each screw individually. Either way make sure you remember what goes where, write it down if you need to. Trust me: mixing up or losing screws and other hardware is a major pain in the ass.

Start taking the toy apart (GO SLOW if there are any springs (gimmicks, ratcheting joints) as they may launch themselves across the room). Pins can be removed by tapping them out with a hammer and nail (or an awl). Blind pins (one end is in solid plasic) aren't worth the trouble, just be careful when painting. Same with the flat pins that they use to attach wheels.

You can strip the factory paint off the plastic parts with rubbing alcohol or paint thinner, then wash the parts in warm water and dish detergent, and let them air dry.

Okay, here's where things get tricky. Remember most parts on a TF are moving parts, and you will have issues if you put paint on too thick. Be very careful when painting, or, if you feel comfortable enough: Note any areas where parts will rotate or slide past each other while posing or transforming, and with a nail file or fine grit sandpaper very gently sand them down. You want to remove only about the thickness of two or three pieces of paper. This way once you paint and seal the parts, you should be back to the original dimensions, and you shouldn't have to worry about binding or paint-wear. Don't bother painting the balls or inside of the socket, the paint will just rub off, and worst case you may change the shape, causing the joint to become stiff. If you have a problem with loose joints, add a thin layer of crazy glue to the ball, and let it dry completely. That usually solves it.

Most Transformers are made of styrene, so model paint (I prefer Testors, but use what you like/is available in your local) is fine. Make sure the room is well-ventilated, enamel fumes are nasy, rattle can or airbrush doubly so.
Either enamel or acrylic works but watch out for soft plastic pieces (made of PVC, I think), as enamel paint doesn't dry properly, and gets tacky. I've found a primer coat of acrylic paint solves that. Disposable gloves aren't a bad idea either, helps to keep fingerprints off the paint. Go slow, and give the paint time to dry between colors; I can get away with as little as a half hour, depending on whether it's acrylic or enamel paint, but follow the manufacturer's instructions just in case. Metal flake (or candy) paints usually require a base cote, again, check the manufacturer's instructions for type, color, etc.

Once you're done painting, give it a day or two to dry completely, then seal the parts. I prefer Testors Dullcote in the rattle-can for obvious robot part and non-car alt-modes (Carformers get Glosscote, natch), but use whatever you like. Give the sealer a couple more days to dry.

Once everything is done, reassemble the figure, and transform and/or move all the limbs just to make sure everything works.


You can buy from Hobby Lobby online.

Here's an article on painting D-Day stripes on WWII airplane models; the principle is the basically the same. Or you can cheat (like I do) and buy the stripes from Reprolabels (under Legacy).

Whether you want to repaint your TC is ultimately up to you. I've used CHUG and KO Starscreams for my Seekers, mainly because they're cheap. (Everyone besides Screamer, Acid Storm, and the Coneheads are repaints.)


Most of the <$100 digital cameras are okay, like the CoolPix L24 or Powershot A2200. If you're serious about taking pictures, get a "light tent", too. Should only run about 25-35 bucks.