amtm wrote:I have an MP-04 Optimus Prime with a broken trailer hitch piece. I also have a regular Hasbro Masterpiece Prime with an intact trailer hitch piece, but the rest of the toy is in rough shape (missing head and several pistons, beat-up paint).
I was thinking of trying to replace the broken hitch on MP-04 with the one from the Hasbro edition, but could not figure out how to get the pin holding it in out--needlenose pliers and such have not worked, and I don't want to risk breaking it by using brute force. I've attached pics of the pin on the Hasbro version (a little fuzzy, sorry).
Anyone have any ideas on how to remove it (and of course, install into the other toy) without damaging the leg where it's seated, or trailer hitch?
leakin' lubricant wrote:Have just received Dr Wu Partners through the post and on opening I noticed Sparkplugs leg is broken
Is there any way to fixt his and keeping his articulation? I have tried popping out the snapped nub where the leg connects but it is in too tight (probably the root of the problem) any help would be appreciated.
SW's SilverHammer wrote:Eat my ass funpub.
Burn wrote:And this is for taking Nemesis Maximo seriously.
*high fives Silly in the face*
carytheone wrote:I can't be assed to do any better right now.
rpetras wrote:leakin' lubricant wrote:Have just received Dr Wu Partners through the post and on opening I noticed Sparkplugs leg is broken
Is there any way to fixt his and keeping his articulation? I have tried popping out the snapped nub where the leg connects but it is in too tight (probably the root of the problem) any help would be appreciated.
First, see if you can send him back and get the retailer to replace him ... that is your best bet. but if you can't,, one trick I've used to make replacement joints for figs is this:
Get a piece of wire about the diameter of the peg, maybe less.
You'll kind of have to judge what gauge to use.
I don't have the Dr Wu fig in question so I don't know how little he is.
But drill out a hole in the body, as well as the replace the broken peg. Use a drill bit the same size or just a TINY bit smaller than your wire.
It is a small fig, so be careful. You can probably drill it out with just the bit, without using an actual drill.
Cut a piece of wire to replace the old peg.
Viola! New pin joint. It'll hold in place with friction.
I've often used the wire that ties the figures in the packages.
Not the new eco friendly junk, the older plastic wrapped wire.
If you need to you can glue in one end, and have at least one side solidly mounted.
So if you have old packaging laying around, you probably have wire.
I've used this trick to replace many wrist pegs as well as other simple joints on TFs, Joe scale figures and Marvel Legends.
Tom_Servo wrote:<img src="http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l141/misterroundheels/MDrill.jpg" border="0" alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket"></a>
I got this drill for Christmas, and I've used it on almost every project that I've done since. It's magic.
leakin' lubricant wrote:Hi all, I'm looking for some tips on fixing the paint job on my classics Prowl, for some reason all of a sudden the paint has become tacky (it was fine up until now). I was going to use Plastikote spray paints to replace the dodgy Hasbro stuff, has anyone any tips on the best way to mask off the doors with minimal bleeding, also does anyone know if it is advisable to clear cote over reprolabels sticker to preserve them.
SKYWARPED_128 wrote:leakin' lubricant wrote:Hi all, I'm looking for some tips on fixing the paint job on my classics Prowl, for some reason all of a sudden the paint has become tacky (it was fine up until now). I was going to use Plastikote spray paints to replace the dodgy Hasbro stuff, has anyone any tips on the best way to mask off the doors with minimal bleeding, also does anyone know if it is advisable to clear cote over reprolabels sticker to preserve them.
Use Tamiya's masking tape. It might be expensive, but the masked edges show no bleed-through at all.
Do you have an airbrush? Airbrushes put on a much finer mist of paint, minimizing bleed-through. Also, try spraying from the side of the masked part--meaning, spray with the masked side facing toward you. The logic behind this is that if you spray with the unmasked side facing you, the masked edge of the tape acts like a dam, pooling paint on the edge, creating the risk of bleeding and an unnaturally thick border.
Also, you should use a blade to cut along the edges of the masking tape. Apparently, lint and dust might get stuck onto the sides of the tape, and create an uneven border on the painted surface.
leakin' lubricant wrote:SKYWARPED_128 wrote:leakin' lubricant wrote:Hi all, I'm looking for some tips on fixing the paint job on my classics Prowl, for some reason all of a sudden the paint has become tacky (it was fine up until now). I was going to use Plastikote spray paints to replace the dodgy Hasbro stuff, has anyone any tips on the best way to mask off the doors with minimal bleeding, also does anyone know if it is advisable to clear cote over reprolabels sticker to preserve them.
Use Tamiya's masking tape. It might be expensive, but the masked edges show no bleed-through at all.
Do you have an airbrush? Airbrushes put on a much finer mist of paint, minimizing bleed-through. Also, try spraying from the side of the masked part--meaning, spray with the masked side facing toward you. The logic behind this is that if you spray with the unmasked side facing you, the masked edge of the tape acts like a dam, pooling paint on the edge, creating the risk of bleeding and an unnaturally thick border.
Also, you should use a blade to cut along the edges of the masking tape. Apparently, lint and dust might get stuck onto the sides of the tape, and create an uneven border on the painted surface.
Thanks very much, kind of a novice at this so your advice is very welcome. I dont have an airbrush unfortunately too expensive for how little I would use it. Would you advise using clear coat over the top of reprolabels or would that screw them up.
SKYWARPED_128 wrote:
Glad to help.
I've clear coated Gundam stickers before when building my MG Gundam Exia, and it looks fine even a year later, so I suppose it should be okay with Reprolabels.
I haven't used Reprolabels before TBH, so I can't say for certain. It SHOULD be okay, though, as there hasn't been any reported cases of stickers being damaged by clear coats.
Just be very sure you have your sticker(s) where you want it before applying a clear coat, because it can be very difficult to remove dried clear coat , if not downright impossible (unless you're using Future).
kirbenvost wrote:Ouch, that's a harsh break to have on an exclusive toy. So far I haven't had much luck using superglue on any sort of stressed areas of plastic... it works fine for cosmetic fixes (side mirrors, head crests, etc), but anything under stress like a joint, the glue just snaps right off. I dunno, maybe I'm doing it wrong or something. Could be I need to let it cure longer. I used superglue on one of the armor tabs on my G1 Jetfire, and it broke the first time, but is holding so far the second.
Maybe you could rig up something more permanent as a splint. Tape may leave a residue on the plastic, you could perhaps try some of the clear elastics they use in the Hasbro packaging.
Return to Transformers Toys Discussion
Registered users: Bing [Bot], Glyph, Google [Bot], Google Adsense [Bot], Majestic-12 [Bot], Red Sentinel, Zordon