The Energon Pub

Hey guys. I'm planning on starting my first customization here soon...TFP Beast Hunters Starscream into Beast Wars Terrosaur! I've read all of the posts in this thread and have a great point to start from. However, I do have once question regarding shiny metallic paints in particular. Do they pose any specific issues? For example, must a primer be used? Is enamel metallic vs. acrylic metallic paint better? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Rhinox23 wrote:Hey guys. I'm planning on starting my first customization here soon...TFP Beast Hunters Starscream into Beast Wars Terrosaur! I've read all of the posts in this thread and have a great point to start from. However, I do have once question regarding shiny metallic paints in particular. Do they pose any specific issues? For example, must a primer be used? Is enamel metallic vs. acrylic metallic paint better? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

The thing about metallic paints is that they tend to come off more easily than solid colors (if I'm not mistaken) due to the metal particles in the paint. Primer is recommended to give the paint some "tooth" to grab onto the surface.

As far as enamel vs acrylics, enamels are tougher than acrylics and "bite" into the plastic more, which in turn presents the issue of melting plastic. That said, a coat of primer should protect the plastic surface. I've never personally used enamels, but it supposedly takes longer to dry than acrylics.

Acrylic is the "gentlest" of paint mediums, as it is the least corrosive against plastic. But that also means that it is the most easily scratched off. Again, a coat of primer will help with adhesion. NOTE: Tamiya acrylics are formulated for use with an airbrush. Applying these paints with paint brushes will generally give you a an uneven coat of paint, especially on large areas. If you must use a paint brush with Tamiya paints, limit it to detailing work or small areas.

BTW, most if not all spray paint is lacquer based, which is the most corrosive of the three paint types. Make sure to apply the paint in light coats instead of one heavy coat.

Clear coating a metallic surface is also recommended to protect it from constant handling. If you can get your hands on Future Floor Polish, it's probably the best candidate to protect your painted surface, as it leaves a tough, glossy surface. And since it's acrylic-based, it's also safe enough to use over all three paint types.

NOTE: Certain metallic paints cannot be coated with clear spray, such as Tamiya's TS-83 metallic silver. Doing so will turn that shiny silver surface into a dull gray.

TL;DR, whatever you choose to use, applying primer is always a good idea.

Tamiya acrylics are meant to be used with an airbrush.

Future Floor Polish makes the best glossy clear coat, and can even be applied with a paint brush.

Hope this helps.

SKYWARPED_128 wrote:The thing about metallic paints is that they tend to come off more easily than solid colors (if I'm not mistaken) due to the metal particles in the paint. Primer is recommended to give the paint some "tooth" to grab onto the surface.

As far as enamel vs acrylics, enamels are tougher than acrylics and "bite" into the plastic more, which in turn presents the issue of melting plastic. That said, a coat of primer should protect the plastic surface. I've never personally used enamels, but it supposedly takes longer to dry than acrylics.

Acrylic is the "gentlest" of paint mediums, as it is the least corrosive against plastic. But that also means that it is the most easily scratched off. Again, a coat of primer will help with adhesion. NOTE: Tamiya acrylics are formulated for use with an airbrush. Applying these paints with paint brushes will generally give you a an uneven coat of paint, especially on large areas. If you must use a paint brush with Tamiya paints, limit it to detailing work or small areas.

BTW, most if not all spray paint is lacquer based, which is the most corrosive of the three paint types. Make sure to apply the paint in light coats instead of one heavy coat.

Clear coating a metallic surface is also recommended to protect it from constant handling. If you can get your hands on Future Floor Polish, it's probably the best candidate to protect your painted surface, as it leaves a tough, glossy surface. And since it's acrylic-based, it's also safe enough to use over all three paint types.

NOTE: Certain metallic paints cannot be coated with clear spray, such as Tamiya's TS-83 metallic silver. Doing so will turn that shiny silver surface into a dull gray.

TL;DR, whatever you choose to use, applying primer is always a good idea.

Tamiya acrylics are meant to be used with an airbrush.

Future Floor Polish makes the best glossy clear coat, and can even be applied with a paint brush.

Hope this helps.

Thanks for all of your advice! I will definitely plan out what paints I intend to buy according to your tips. I really appreciate the help.

Rhinox23 wrote:

SKYWARPED_128 wrote:The thing about metallic paints is that they tend to come off more easily than solid colors (if I'm not mistaken) due to the metal particles in the paint. Primer is recommended to give the paint some "tooth" to grab onto the surface.

As far as enamel vs acrylics, enamels are tougher than acrylics and "bite" into the plastic more, which in turn presents the issue of melting plastic. That said, a coat of primer should protect the plastic surface. I've never personally used enamels, but it supposedly takes longer to dry than acrylics.

Acrylic is the "gentlest" of paint mediums, as it is the least corrosive against plastic. But that also means that it is the most easily scratched off. Again, a coat of primer will help with adhesion. NOTE: Tamiya acrylics are formulated for use with an airbrush. Applying these paints with paint brushes will generally give you a an uneven coat of paint, especially on large areas. If you must use a paint brush with Tamiya paints, limit it to detailing work or small areas.

BTW, most if not all spray paint is lacquer based, which is the most corrosive of the three paint types. Make sure to apply the paint in light coats instead of one heavy coat.

Clear coating a metallic surface is also recommended to protect it from constant handling. If you can get your hands on Future Floor Polish, it's probably the best candidate to protect your painted surface, as it leaves a tough, glossy surface. And since it's acrylic-based, it's also safe enough to use over all three paint types.

NOTE: Certain metallic paints cannot be coated with clear spray, such as Tamiya's TS-83 metallic silver. Doing so will turn that shiny silver surface into a dull gray.

TL;DR, whatever you choose to use, applying primer is always a good idea.

Tamiya acrylics are meant to be used with an airbrush.

Future Floor Polish makes the best glossy clear coat, and can even be applied with a paint brush.

Hope this helps.

Thanks for all of your advice! I will definitely plan out what paints I intend to buy according to your tips. I really appreciate the help.

Glad I could help!

Has anyone found a particular type of paint to use on the soft rubber that some transformers have? I tried testors acrylics so far and it does indeed dry awesome, but it flakes off. Any help or tips would be welcome

Mindewipe24 wrote:Has anyone found a particular type of paint to use on the soft rubber that some transformers have? I tried testors acrylics so far and it does indeed dry awesome, but it flakes off. Any help or tips would be welcome

Try priming the rubber parts first. I adds more "tooth" to the surface, allowing better adhesion.

The real problem here is, if or when you flex the rubber part in any way, the paint will probably crack and flake off.

I've never painted over soft rubber before, so I can only give you general suggestions.

Hope it helps, though.

To the big time customizers here, how would you reccommend adding scars to my figures? Do you just cut details with exacto knives, or would you use a saudering iron?

You can use an xacto knife, dremel with a small cutting bit, or a drill bit to get different damage effects. you can use a soldering iron, but I prefer the methods above. Experiment on a scrap piece of plastic and see what effects you can produce, and what you are looking for!
Also Google is your friend, there are tons of guides out there showing how to attain different effects.

Good luck!

Nemesis Maximo wrote:To the big time customizers here, how would you reccommend adding scars to my figures? Do you just cut details with exacto knives, or would you use a saudering iron?

It all depends on what kind of damage you're looking for. Bullet holes are usually done with drill bits (pin vise or electric drill/rotary tool), and "laser-melted" effects are done using a soldering iron. For sword slashes, naturally you'd use an X-acto knife.

BTW, lightly painting the damage with silver paint to simulate exposed metal brings the effects to life.

Hope this helps.

Thanks to both Mindwipe24 ans Skywarped_128. Those are some techniques that I've wanted to try, and I will!

Hello,

I am working on my first repaint. I am turning a Machine Wars Prowl into a Super Ninja Counter (red and white deco with the orange head).

I think I have the painting down, especially after reading through this thread (so thank you to all who have been posting tips and tricks, as a novice I really appreciate it). My question is about the head.

I want to reshape/craft another head that looks more like the spy changer head. Does anyone have any experience in crafting a head from a type of putty or clay? If so, what type would you use? If not, does anyone have any ideas of a bot's head that would match the Machine wars size that I could swap out?

Thanks in advance!

Michael

I recently got 2012 Predaking and he has a problem.

The glue on the original factory sticker sheet has dried up, but the stickers still come off fine. Just don't stick very well.

I'm looking for something I could brush on or some other method to try to re use the original sticker sheet.
I've a re-production sticker sheet, but it's no where near as good as the original.

SkyWarpsGhost wrote:I recently got 2012 Predaking and he has a problem.

The glue on the original factory sticker sheet has dried up, but the stickers still come off fine. Just don't stick very well.

I'm looking for something I could brush on or some other method to try to re use the original sticker sheet.
I've a re-production sticker sheet, but it's no where near as good as the original.

Try using some spray-on glue, and then applying a coat of Future floor polish to seal the sticker. FFP dries to a hard shell, protecting and sealing the sticker from future deformation. The only thing is that FFP is very glossy, and you might not like the finish on them.

DISCLAIMER: I haven't tried this personally, but it should work in theory. Using the spray-on glue is certainly harmless.

I've got the Armada Unicron and would like to change the LED in his head so that he will have green eyes (and maybe switch it so that the eyes can be turned on and off, and when on, they won't blink). Does anyone know of any good tutorials, or maybe if you've done it yourself, could someone post a tutorial? I scoured the internet, but couldn't find anything.

I know there was a post about this back in 2011, but the person only showed the result and didn't say how they did it.

I just don't want to accidentally destroy the figure since I don't have much experience with LED's.

Thanks!

Hey devlingrey, in response to your head sculpting question...

Does anyone have any experience in crafting a head from a type of putty or clay? If so, what type would you use?

I would use Aves Fixit Sculpt. It's similar to epoxy, but much easier to use. It molds just like clay, but is water soluble so it can easily be smoothed out and blended together. It does take 24 hours to fully cure, but once it does, it's really really durable and strong.

I've used the stuff for lots of Transformers work. It also works great for filling in the hollow arms and legs that Hasbro often uses to save on plastic. You can get the stuff here, http://www.avesstudio.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=75&category_id=7&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1&vmcchk=1&Itemid=1

As a side note, it helps to wet your sculpting tools when using this, since it's water soluble.

The best way to remove one ended pins (especially pesky wheel ones)? Drill 'em out! I use a 1mm drill bit to drill in from the other side. Then pin-push then out and fill in the holes... No one will ever know

The best way to remove one ended pins (especially pesky wheel ones)? Drill 'em out! I use a 1mm drill bit to drill in from the other side. Then pin-push then out and fill in the holes... No one will ever know

Or, just heat the surface of the pin with a soldering iron. You don't need to melt the plastic, just heat it enough so that you can putt the pin free. It'll slide right out... No one will ever know

Also, this usually doesn't damage the pin, so you can reuse it for something else later if you need it.

Maximalnomore wrote:

The best way to remove one ended pins (especially pesky wheel ones)? Drill 'em out! I use a 1mm drill bit to drill in from the other side. Then pin-push then out and fill in the holes... No one will ever know

Or, just heat the surface of the pin with a soldering iron. You don't need to melt the plastic, just heat it enough so that you can putt the pin free. It'll slide right out... No one will ever know

Also, this usually doesn't damage the pin, so you can reuse it for something else later if you need it.

Personally I don't like doing that although I know it's a popular method. I've done it in the past with varying degrees of success. I feel like I'm not completely in control of what's happening to the plastic but with a drill I am. It boils down to which method is best for each person and for me, the drill is the way

Hey everyone, I'm looking for tips on dyeing figures with RIT dye for the first time. I want to dye Igear Duneraker a darker shade of blue because I would rather avoid painting and dealing with paint chipping.

I saw that you need to find the old RIT dye pre 2011 because the new RIT doesn't dye plastic due to a newer formula. Has anyone found this is this the case?

Also, I don't want to warp the figure, any tips how to make sure that doesn't happen. I know you don't want the water boiling, but I know it doesn't take much to melt plastic.

on TFW there is a tutorial saying only dip 3-5 seconds at a time. How long does it take before getting results???


Also how permanent is the dye? It won't oxidize and fade or do something funky over time will it?

I need some ideas bad here. The arm of my MP 14 broke off at the bicep swivel. It was stuck and wouldn't budge after I transformed him to robot mode. Well you can guess what happened next. Yeah he;s a KO. But I only got him because at the time he was first released I got Sideswipe instead not knowing his price would jump like it has before I decided to get him. Either way he is still made of very good quality and this is the only issue I have with him. Can anyone think of anything?

what all do you need to customize a Transformer?

Does anyone know of anything stronger than Future Floor polish?

It seems to work if you don't plan to transform customs, but if things slightly rub, it seems not to hold up, especially over metallic enamel paints.

Is there any thing that you can use over both acrylics and enamels that is heavy duty strong?

What do the official factories use?

Does anyone have any general advice for working with the BW Terrorsaur mold?

I ended up accidentally ordering two of that AoE Bumblebee and Strafe two-pack, and I've decided to give repainting a shot with the second. Bee looks to be the easier of the two (given that I can leave anything molded in black unpainted), but Strafe looks to be a little more complex, at least torso-wise (although again, anything black is staying black, more or less).

warzon3 wrote:Does anyone know of anything stronger than Future Floor polish?

It seems to work if you don't plan to transform customs, but if things slightly rub, it seems not to hold up, especially over metallic enamel paints.

Is there any thing that you can use over both acrylics and enamels that is heavy duty strong?

What do the official factories use?

I use Krylon clear coat. It holds up pretty well to abrasion, but I tend to give a bout 2-3 coats before I call it good.

Anybody have any advice on how to tighten up the AOE Two-Pack Classics Prime's shoulders?