The Energon Pub

Wed Mar 05, 2008 2:42 pm

It even came Packaged like this ever since the day i first got it.
And i cant find any screws that connect them or at leat anyway of removing them without breaking the whole thing beyond repair

News Credits: 9 · Thu Mar 06, 2008 12:54 am

I bought an Ultimate BumbleBee a while back and I transformed once or twice I just just recently tried to transform him again and I couldnt get his legs to pull out and I noticed the pegs you push in where really loose does anyone know how to fix em?

News Credits: 1 · Thu Mar 06, 2008 9:13 am

Hi there another weapons question for anyone who knows, can anyone recomend a blaster that fits Classics Starscreams fist and has a resenblence to classics Megatron in gun mode, I am looking to repaint it to match Megs colour scheme

News Credits: 387 · Thu Mar 06, 2008 3:04 pm

Does anyone know how to remove those pins? My energon Starscream has been broken at the forearm for awhile and I’m trying to disassemble the shoulder so I could glue the swivel joint back on or something, but I cant get the shoulder apart to safely glue it back together. Can anyone tell me what sort of glue I should use and how to remove pins?

News Credits: 1 · Sun Mar 09, 2008 7:16 pm

okay so a little while back I bought a classic Camaro movie bumblebee I use him for display only and mainly keep him in car mode but he has the "slant-nose" syndrome does anyone know how to fix this to where hes stills transformable but the nose is straight? this is bugging me because he looks like crap

My first post here. I found this site looking for a solution for exactly the same problem.

Basically, what's going on is that at some point you forced the hood excesively and this caused the cogs to shift their alignment one notch.

So, this is what i did:

- i took away the legs, the arms and the head to make more room to work.

- I then unscrewed bumblebees thorax. There are screws in the hood, in the torso, and there's one that is pretty important inside the torso, you have to look in the hole where the arms axis is. You'll be able then to separate the hood and the arm basis.

-Once everything is disassembled, i reassembled everything as if it were in robot mode.

-Once reassembled, i tried moving the hood back to see if it worked fine... and it did. Then i put the screws and springs back in place and reassembled the robot.

It's a complex operation to do, but it works and you won't damage your figure. You'll need a good, long and thin philips screwdriver, the kind of screwdriver that you'll use for reparing watches and sunglasses.

That's it... i took a couple of pictures, but i won't upload them yet. I have to find them first...

Mon Mar 10, 2008 4:25 pm

So I havent seen anyone else with this or heard it anywhere else, but I have a Titanium Soundwave and the right leg is very loose. I can get him to stand but he looks all lopsided and the loeg just slides up and down. The other leg just seems tighter and works fine. Any suggestions?

Tue Mar 11, 2008 1:24 pm

insanityzmaster wrote:So I havent seen anyone else with this or heard it anywhere else, but I have a Titanium Soundwave and the right leg is very loose. I can get him to stand but he looks all lopsided and the loeg just slides up and down. The other leg just seems tighter and works fine. Any suggestions?

Try taking him apart so that you can see the joint that's causing you problems (I'm hoping its a screw or a balljoint). Paint both sides of the joint with some cheap clear nailpolish and let him dry. Once everything's dry put him back together and the joint should be tight again.

I use that trick all the time with loose balljoints and its also worked on fixed pivot joints too as long as you can get at the parts that rotate on each other.

Good luck!

Mon Mar 24, 2008 10:46 am

Bought a G1 ratchet from a flea market. Its not in bad shape, but needs some work to it. The problems are as follows:

1. Yellowing on the MARB
2. MARB doesn't fit together right
3. Pin missing from Ratchet's ankle joint
4. Missing accessories

any help on any of those would be most grateful

News Credits: 1 · Mon Mar 24, 2008 12:13 pm

I dont know if it has been mentioned before ... but :

HOW THE HECK DO I GET THE BATTERIES OUT OF CYBERTRON PRIMUS'S OMEGA LOCK ?! ... :-(

I have opened the Omega Lock, i found the batteries ... but i couldn't get um out ...

And since i hate battery acid, i dont wanna push a screwdriver in between them with the power of Bruticus ... if you know what i mean ...

Is there a good and secure way 2 get em out? :???:

Thu Mar 27, 2008 8:46 am

Nekoman wrote:Does anyone know how to remove those pins? My energon Starscream has been broken at the forearm for awhile and I’m trying to disassemble the shoulder so I could glue the swivel joint back on or something, but I cant get the shoulder apart to safely glue it back together. Can anyone tell me what sort of glue I should use and how to remove pins?

Transtopia has a good article on pins
http://www.tfmaster.com/articles_pin.php

I've got a simialr problem but I need to clog up a pin hole on a classics seeker that got widened when the previous owner just yanked the pin out. I misposted it in the kitbash section though so here it is.

Help needed fixing pin on Classics seeker wing
viewtopic.php?f=94&t=37486

I got a loose Classics Skywarp recently and the wings had been seriously messed with by the previous owner. I initially thought the'd pulled both wings off at the flat headed pin and swapped them but it turns out they'd swapped them at the plastic clip but pulled the one pin out and made made a hash job of it and seriously widened the pin hole.

So I've got to repair it as the pin doesn't hold tight at all, the wing won't fold up behind Skywarp, it keeps dropping. Now if this was a screw I'd be slicing up small slivers of a matchstick to brace the hole and maybe dropping the tiniest drop of glue or filler in the hole to help tighen it up. However I'm not so sure that'd work for a pin, especially as it's in a delicate position for hammering back in so any advice anyone could give would be appreciated.

News Credits: 387 · Thu Mar 27, 2008 9:29 am

Thanks! This looks like it will be harder than I thought, but now I know where I’m going with it.

News Credits: 1 · Fri Apr 04, 2008 1:42 pm

What's a good product for cleaning TFs that won't damage the plastic & paintwork?

I just got a MP Starscream, and although I can I dentify some marks as definately part of the decoration (battle damage, engine smoke etc.), some of it I think is actually dirt and I'd like to get rid of it, but I've no idea what to use

Any suggestions?

Fri Apr 04, 2008 6:45 pm

Autoclot wrote:What's a good product for cleaning TFs that won't damage the plastic & paintwork?

I just got a MP Starscream, and although I can I dentify some marks as definately part of the decoration (battle damage, engine smoke etc.), some of it I think is actually dirt and I'd like to get rid of it, but I've no idea what to use

Any suggestions?

Elbow grease and a soft/medium toothbrush work best for me, and actually from some experience I can recommend several brands of baby wipes!

Tue Apr 22, 2008 12:42 pm

Anyone got a decent repair method to fix loose joints? My 2007 deluxe Swindle figure's arm and leg are both extremely loose, and 2007 deluxe Overcast's arm has come off, and now will not go back on fully, so it falls off with barely any pressure being exerted upon it.

Tue Apr 22, 2008 5:08 pm

Thyunda wrote:Anyone got a decent repair method to fix loose joints? My 2007 deluxe Swindle figure's arm and leg are both extremely loose, and 2007 deluxe Overcast's arm has come off, and now will not go back on fully, so it falls off with barely any pressure being exerted upon it.

Clear Nail varnish works wonders.

Sun Apr 27, 2008 2:56 pm

The lower half of my G2 Optimus (the tanker truck version) is really loose from the waist down. While I'd normally use such a term to insult a slutty classmate, this is really buggin me because as it is I can't pose him without him falling back D:

Anyone know if this is fixable on figure like his? I think the problem is where his upper legs connect to his waist, and his knee joints..

News Credits: 1452 · Sun Apr 27, 2008 3:03 pm

The plastic of my Beast Wars toys have started to chip.. Anyone have this problem?

Sun Apr 27, 2008 3:41 pm

underwear ninja wrote:The lower half of my G2 Optimus (the tanker truck version) is really loose from the waist down. While I'd normally use such a term to insult a slutty classmate, this is really buggin me because as it is I can't pose him without him falling back D:

Anyone know if this is fixable on figure like his? I think the problem is where his upper legs connect to his waist, and his knee joints..

G2 laser Prime?

If so I just resolred one just like that.

Get a screwdriver, some thin card (or similar) for wedging, clear nail vanish and a healthy dose of patience!

On mine the waist & legs were loose and the ratchet mechanism has started to really wear. Prime kept buckling in truck mode. lets see if I can remember all I did here.

I carefully unscrewed the whole waist & legs section, there are two sections that grind against the waist & legs pivots to cause the ratching click. - These had worn significantly, especially on the waist pivot. I cleaned all the parts and then coated the "gear" sections of the legs & waist and then the worn down ratcheting sections with clear nail varnish. Left these to dry then did a 2nd, followed by a 3rd coat of nail varnish, just to be sure.

When these were thoroughly dry I started to reassemble Prime but left the final section open and unscrewed. Looks carefully where the gear section ratchet against the worn down parts and use the cardbaord to brace the bits where they slot in as tightly as you can manage so they press harder together and then carefully fit and screw in the last piece. the joints should be much tighter and the rathcting click will be better but bear in mind that this won't really withstand heavy play so you will still need to be careful.

Thu May 01, 2008 7:53 am

Does anyone know where I can buy some rubber tires the Alternators line? I lost all four tires on my Rumble figure. Thanks.

Thu May 01, 2008 12:14 pm

I didn't know they sold them separately...then again, I didn't know they came off.

News Credits: 11 · Wed May 07, 2008 5:23 pm

ngandy1000 wrote:Does anyone know where I can buy some rubber tires the Alternators line? I lost all four tires on my Rumble figure. Thanks.

You're probably out of luck unfortunately, for buying the actual tires. You could try a 1/24-scale model kit, get the same year Honda Civic and see if the tires fit.

Wed May 07, 2008 6:24 pm

I'm not sifting through 200+ pages so I'll just ask, what brand paint is best used to touch up G1 Prime? It must be available here in the states because I'm not paying international shipping for PAINT. Remember, I'm just touching him up, not repainting. Also, alot of his chrome has come off over the years. Best alternative to fix that?

News Credits: 3 · Sun May 18, 2008 8:49 pm

Does anyone have any tricks for tightening pins? I have a very loose G1 Astrotrain that will not hold together in train mode as the front sections will not hold the weight, also the tail fin will not stay together. The legs will not stay telescoped out either in robot mode, but I do not think I can do anything about that.

Fri May 30, 2008 5:08 pm

For what it's worth, I've found that rubbing alcohol, a q-tip, a clean cloth, and lots of patience works really well at removing old label residue. You'll want to be careful to avoid any painted parts or chrome though as the alcohol can strip it.

Also, conservative applications of foaming auto tire protectant via q-tip will prevent the rubber from dry-rotting on TF tires and G1 Shockwave hoses. It will not 'fix' rubber parts that are damaged though.